dibarlaw

Thanks Don for giving Leif this information. It may have been over a week before my friend would have been able to get me his measurements.

Yes it looks to be a very nice car. Done up the way many liked to see a sport roadster. The colors for the 1928-24 (115 series) would be Trail Green Body with vermilion stripe. The fenders were still to be black. No 2 tone in 1928 as there had been in 1926 and 1927. Here is what the car looks like in the correct Trail Green color. It is currently for sale on the Horseless Carriage site. It looks to be a 1928-54 Master series. At least it matches the catalog illustration.

This is somewhat Hugh and I went through when we tried to get handles made for our 1925 Standard touring cars. I first considered Hildebrand since I spoke with him personally at a Model Expo. There was a floorboard thimble that he had we also wanted to get done (but in aluminum which they do not do). The owner of the mold had to be contacted and after many months of no contact we went elsewhere. After dealing with a west coast place that got us into the $45-$50 range we were disappointed with the very poor quality. I will spend double the price in prepping them to be plated. If the handles look as good as what is shown I believe you will be further ahead.

Leif: I will call my friend to get some measurements. I believe that it should be cast iron gray. I used a high temp/fuel resistant cast Iron gray on the carb for my 1925. I do not believe any of the cast Iron parts on the carb was painted. I know lots of people paint them black. Mostly because it looks good with the brass bowl. The 1924, 6 cylinder car had the aluminum model R Marvel carb.

Norm. Here is a body without the sheet metal panels. I believe according to the part# on one of the cowl brackets it is for a 1923-45. But you can see the overall arrangement of the parts.

Ron : My friend Peter helped me get the engine in on the 16th of Aug. This was taken on Sunday the 26th after I got the S/G and water pump back on.

Leif: Here is what I have from my friend Peters ORIGINAL 1927-54. I have more photos that I can email you directly because of file size limitations. Oops! I thought I had a shot of the rub bars. Instead it is the Original Top and Original Boot. Here is Pete's other 1927-54 showing the rub bars. A mostly original car with one repaint and one re-topping.

With a 3 digit PA antique plate it was probably registered as such in the early 1950s. A 1927 Buick mdl 24 Roadster originally from Lititz.

Brenden: When I was doing body work in the early 1970s in the Pittsburgh PA. area (salt/rust belt), I knew a contractor who had a 1957 Oldsmobile 88 that was rusted out on the passenger side. Rocker panel etc. damp barn stone wall on that side. We had twice a year inspection at the time. A pin hole of rust could cause a flunked inspection. His solution was to fill the rocker panel and bottoms of the fenders with concrete. He probably ran it that way for around 5 years. I could always tell his car when I saw it as it leaned to the passenger side....

Brenden : Congratulations and we are grateful that your family is well. The radiator looks great.. A word of caution. My filler neck was very nice and I did not have it re-plated before I had the unit re-cored. I did have my shell re-plated. When I was finally able to get thing back together the neck and the hole in the shell was a tight fit. So now there is a nasty scratch on the neck.

Leif: Thank you for the review of the operation. I am glad the locks work on the transmissions for both my cars!

Well if JR is still looking get his transmission done and back in I may have a new/rebuilt clutch for him. According to Dynaflash8. See thread.. ID of clutch NOT 1937.

I have a clutch that was sent to me in the late 1980s reported to be for a 1937 Model 40. The correct part # for 1934 -1937 series 40 is 1301368. The clutch has a piece of tape with this designation. But the correct 1937 clutch is to be 10" disk X 1 1/4" X 10 spline. This unit is 10 5/16" disk X 1 1/8" 10 spline. A newer model Buick??

Good to hear from you again Nick and I am glad to see you are making progress.

I emailed John Beatty with this info. He has a 1922-55 that may be in need.

John: Than you for posting this. These early 1920s Paige automobiles are truly beautiful designs. Best of luck on the sale.

Here is an UNMODIFIED 1955 Chevrolet Nomad.

Harvest: The AC unit is the one that was used on my 1925 Buick Standard and probably some others. And yes cahartley speaks the truth. The one in my car the trip odometer functions and it does work up to about 30 MPH then it goes crazy and pegs at 70 MPH. Buick friend Leif Holmberg told me if it even works a little DON"T TOUCH IT! Every one I have seen at Hershey and other swap meets were pretty much junk. There was a beautiful example on a vendors stand for $200. I asked him if it was checked and he replied it was a fully functioning unit. I gave it a light shake to see if the drum pivoted and heard a sickening rattle sound like there were loose pebbles. I thanked him and put it down. I picked up one for about $10.00 just to see if I could play with it and see what parts inside disintegrate. The problem is that the pot metal expands and cracks so you can't get the works out without destroying the rest. The Master Buick ACs are similar. I found a real nice one that I was able to disassemble. I found the drum support was badly cracked but still in one piece. At the time I was still teaching IA and we had a 3D printer. I thought one of my students and I could print out a replacement. We never got to that point. I still have the Inventor files if I ever get ambitious again.

Hugh: I unsoldered my radiator shell emblem and re soldered it on the new one. I used a 150 Watt soldering Iron. I just had to be patient.

Chuck: Before I reattach the head and accessories to my engine I am rebuilding my spare Marvel carb. My carbs venturi block was warped and the center had at least a 1/16" bulge. After much redressing with a file to get it flat and fitting the tail clearance it is to factory spec (.009-.017clearance). I have it at this moment .010. I used the Marvel book from BOB-s as my reference. On my original carb there was no tail clearance and dashpot vane was open about 1/8". (also someone had previously installed the venturi block upside down) I had done that one also as the vane contour was warped to the bore and took a LOT of fitting. When I pulled the carb off for the engine rebuild, I found that I will have to re do some of the tail clearance fitting again. That darn die cast grew again in just 2 years! Best of luck. Larry

Good points taken by all. I finally broke down and had my radiator shell re nickeled $685. Of course this was after finding a useable shell. My "Oakie Chrome" shell that was on the car when I bought it was very deeply pitted. I am working on getting things better but still as a driver. I did buy a set of rusty bumpers (originally nickeled) for my car that the steel finished surface was so wavy it would have taken an huge amount of work to make them presentable. They must have looked pretty shabby when new. To re-plate them would have been over $1,500. So my powder coated, driver quality bumpers (which are an accessory on 1925 Buicks). Unfortunately they will no longer match the nickeled shell. Oh well... I remember detailing New Oldsmobiles in the 1970s and was amazed how shabby the chrome finished bumpers looked. Rough surfaces and cloudy .

Thanks Hugh. My sentiments exactly. But you seem to have a similar issue as me. My exhaust was system was incorrect and poorly fitted. While yours has not been on the car with the splash shield to check for a good fit. Also considering at the auction where your car came from there were several later Buicks in a disassembled state to complicate the mix and NOT match situation.

Thank you Grant I will try him. The muffler I got from Myers looks to be the correct size and configuration. I will only need a reducer collar for proper fit.

Fred: I will probably take you up on that. The muffler from Meyers Early Dodge came in around 12:00 today. Wow 2 day delivery!

Repaired I.D. 2.375 dimension.