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dibarlaw

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Posts posted by dibarlaw

  1. Check and see if there is very much play between the shaft and the hub. Failure is manifested by the fan going through the radiator! This was a common issue with Buicks into the early 1930s. These have been adapted for sealed bearings since the 1970s when there was a diagram posted in the Buick Bugle magazine. I made adapters for both my Standard and Master. "BOB's" should still have them available.

    DSCF1719.JPG.b293ef71351e33a42aa3c9c161336e8f.JPG 

    First I tried to make new bushings to re-fit to the hub.

    DSCF1720.JPG.32e26ce9ace34601dfaa1b57b9bcb9ae.JPG DSCF1721.JPG.425e9720e037037c6784c1403f9e99bc.JPG

     It did not work out for me.  So, I made a complete adapter. A lot of machining to be done on the 4" Dia.X4" long piece of aluminum.

    DSCF1725.JPG.e5ccdd5fb4c4b86fe3078394121d8cc2.JPG

     

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  2. Hugh:

     What is in the spare 1925 Master riser as close as I can measure is 1.587 O.D. 1.512 I.D. length is 5 7/8".  Much larger than our standard riser liner.

     I set up a vacuum gage for my Master and found it to be at 17" vacuum the best I can dial in at the carb. To me it still needs some timing revision and dwel adjustment. But no matter how I adjust the system it idles much too fast. The only way I can slow it down to a reasonable RPM is to retard the spark. The stop screw on the throttle is all the way out. So I will have to check if the former owner bent the butterfly plate. Or if the smaller diameter riser lining has the same effect.

  3. Peter:

    Thank you for this reference. As I said before I have an HT-6 that is labeled ON THE TUBE as fitting the 1925 Master. It does not. The HT-4 that I had specified that it fit 1925-1926 Standard which it was too large for my 1925 Standard riser. 

     Frank:

     I was able to scan the Marvel diagram and parts list for your carb. This is from my original 1931 Master Book of Parts that has extra sections for accessories and such. Marvel, Delco Remy, Wolvereen Bumpers, Buffallo wheels etc.

    img03262024_041.jpg.2ec3d0fc74d6e4efa929445dfcd3c1e9.jpg

    I noted that they mention that the riser and lining are avaiable as a unit as well as an assembly. But no lining available untill the later aftermarket source provided them.

  4. Frank:

     Here is a sectional view of my 1925 carb showing the relationship of the idle jet to the venturi.

    Marvel10-11001.jpg.68e7baa4c90a7bc4adb52747aaf3fc0c.jpgIt looks as though on my carb the idle jet top is in the the center of the block. So I mentioned when I first got into my carb the block was upside down and the top of the jet was about flush with the block.

    Here is a copy of the Marvel calibration chart.

    MarvelChart001(1280x748).jpg.76ae3c5d7024048e52d1ccf2fe293a08.jpg

     

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  5. Morgan:

    I love the archiological digs. I bought a late 1920s General 500 X 22 tire to get the 22" rim for Hugh Leidlein. The tire had a LIGHT GRAY Dayton inertube in very good shape and a soft felt/canvas flap. The tube still held air but as it was exposed to outside air it turned to a medium brown. I had the tube pumped up with the flap as a display for over several years untill one day I thought it looked like it needed  a bit of a charge I put in a few more pound of air........ POP!

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  6. Frank:

     I found some photos of the carbs I redid with before and after.

    DSC00475.JPG.28ec0ed6e4dd7109e8a17fb6ad0e3f9e.JPG Quite a bit of distortion here. Tail clearance of the block to the vane on my carb was supposed to be .009-.017

    DSC00476.JPG.a1f2172c914ee2705ffc037983d69253.JPG

    New aluminum block top right with warped, crumbling originals below.

    DSC00468.JPG.ce4d68ce5b3bb39b46239512201b6033.JPGAnother carb in the condition I bought it. Dash pot valve over 1/4" away from fitting the bore. The idle jet 1/8" off center.

    DSC00474.JPG.b403eb7feeb8293e037c83210a07150f.JPG

    New block fitted and the dashpot with a good fit to the bore.

    DSC00478.JPG.688151e31539d9fea336f524c7c957b7.JPG

    This is how I did the final fit of the dashpot vane to the bore by putting light finger pressure against the vane while pulling 240 grit abrasive paper repeatedly to see no light around it. This is after the block has been closely filed to fit the tail of the vane. The Marvel service book indicates to file the block not the vane tail edge. On both my carbs there was evidence the tails had been filed before.

    DSC00479.JPG.20a9c8a5d57e098aaf9d5fc30d210d90.JPG

     

     

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  7. Frank :

     As to what Hugh has posted the venturi blocks on both my Master and Standard carbs I had filed to fit for the proper tail clearence. (When I first got into my carb the block was installed upside down.) After a year they had grown again. Keeping the dashpot valve open. Also the idle jet is suposed to be centered to the venturi hole. Mine was almost 3/32 off center and oval in shape. The newly manufactured blocks solved those problems.

    • Like 1
  8. Kevin:

     I bought from BOB's 2 riser linings. NOS Hygrade H-4 for 1925 Standard and a H-6. The only problem was that both are the wrong size for what I have for both cars The tubes are marked with a label to identify the riser # they are to fit. Well neither fit! The H-6 for Master is too small. (to big for the 1925 Standard). The H-4 for the Standard riser was stated on the label on the tube to fit 1925-1928 Standard.  NOT! It is larger than what my 1925 takes. I believe I sold that to someone with a 1927 last year at Hershey.

    For Frank. If he can remove the throttle shaft and take to a machine shop that could chuck it up securely anc=d center accurately on a lathe he could just have it bored out larger. Also on a vertical mill which would be more secure. 

    • Like 1
  9. It does look like the heat to the riser has been blocked off. But it seems as if quite a bit of juryrigging has been done to the fuel system. My 1925 Standard with the original style updraft will comfortably cruise at 40 mph. It has a one year only 191 cu.in. 50 HP engine. The 1927 has a 207 Cu.in. 63 HP engine. It should have more power but the rear end gearing still limits comfortable crusing speeds to a little above 40 mph. I have had my car up to 55 mph on the rare occasions to avoid being run over on the few times I had to jump on an interstate to cross our Susquehanna river here in PA. The Marvel carb also has a pot metal venturi block that tends to grow and distort. There are modern replacements availables. Also agree with Larry Schramm's comment about stopping!

  10. Sigh.....

     As much as I like these teens thru 1920 Buicks this interpritive restoration will have be a tough sell. Nice paint in what one of our Mason Dixon members called "Resale Red". It would take $25,000 just to fix the obvious issues. I have never seen anyone make up metal running boards for this era car considering how easy it would be to duplicte the wooden originals. Of course the missing rear doors. I could go on and on...

    thumbnail_DSCF4586.jpg.689dfa457f4a10baa657bfd25a021452.jpgMy favorite is Charlie Steffie's 1919-H45.

    thumbnail_DSCF4594.jpg.983c29aab2c317d7ce97c30588912769.jpg

    Even my wife liked it.

    thumbnail_DSCF4599.jpg.2ba24e4a2faa11dbbaa2995c98a8875e.jpg

     Also a 1920 K-45 I tried to buy back in the late 1990s The owner insisted it was a 1919 even though I showed him the data plate that read K-45.

    1920K-45001.jpg.580e6064622bfe38ee566039a8e5e082.jpg

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  11. EmTee:

     Yes this one has me twitching but only for nostalgia sake. If my father was still alive I would have gone for one like this. He had a Black 1948 Olds fastback as a work car in the late 1950s. Our good car was a 1959 Olds 98 4 door hardtop. As a 5 year old I remember riding in the 48 on that front seat and looking at that dash. I just do not remember if it was a 6 or 8 cylinder. My dad named the car "LUCY". Knowing my father it would have been an 8. At the same time my grandfather was still driving the light blue 1948 8 cylinder Olds fastback my father bought new and had bought from my dad when he bought his 1950 Olds. My fathers first car was a 1946 Pontiac Torpedo 8. That was the last standard shift car he ever owned. Oh.. thats right there was the 1953 Chrysler with fluid drive before the 1959 Olds. My mother and he embraced the Hydra Matic technology.

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    • Thanks 1
  12. In the late 1980s I remember a similar version of this Judkins Lincoln near me here in south central PA. Chambersburg.

    I believe Carl Amsley from St Thomas PA. had it at one time. Carl was our regional clearing house for all things Stanley back then. He had a small collection at his shop/property.  Riding my bicycle back and forth to my high school teaching job at lunch I would cut through the Travel Lodge parking lot on the Lincoln Highway. The Travel Lodge had a tea room where Carl would bring customers for lunch. Just about every week I would see a Stanley or his Pierce Arrow or a customers car.

    • Like 1
  13. For my 1925 Buick I had to make my own ("Double compression, Dole fitting, Tube nut".)

    DSC01198.JPG.401dd46a185a151b85653e259f5deed7.JPG

    These were the descriptors I found for my fuel line fitting from the vacuum tank shut off to my carb. The parts book refered to them as nipples.

    DSC01196.JPG.5e9cd4c097218ad7eb70f70a801e69a4.JPG

    I had spent hours online searching for them. A while ago I had gotten some from Fastenal for 1/4" tube but they no longer had them for 5/16" tube.  O'Reilly auto parts supposidly stocks them. (free overnight store delivery) But to get them delivered to me was turning into a fiasco. I ordered 10 (@$3.29 each) shipping was calculating for 10 individual orders, the cost was going to be over $50.00 just for shipping! The closest parts store to me was over an hour away.

    • Like 1
  14. Agreed that this looks very original as to the details with some obvious work being done. I would love one of these 3 window coupes. But from my experience the $14,900 is just an entrance fee. It appears to be in similar condition as my 1937-41 was when I bought it in 1987. Price at that time was $2,750. I was impressed that this 1936 still has the metal gaiters on the rear springs. (When I redid my springs we removed the partialy rusted original gaiters.) With my car it only took me 27 years to get it to a point that it was a reliable driver. 2 of those years sorting and resorting to work out "Gremlins" from the 6 months at a restoration shop to work it up into a promised "Driver". They estimated it would take around $10,000 to be a reliable driver. When the bills totaled over $20,000 we had to end the relationship. In the 1936 descriptor it indicates this would be a good parade car. My need was to have a car to drive to the BCA nationals. Which I did in 2013, 2016, 2017. Doing sometimes a 3000 mile round trip.

    As deac said "I hope it goes to someone who will appreciate it and preserve it".

    • Like 1
  15. Thanks Jon:

     I can understand if I had not adressed the vacuum tank shut off valve and left it open as to the dripping at the carb from a bad needle valve. Also that I ran the engine with the valve closed untill the carb was dry. My 1925 Buick Standard with the similar set up did this also.

    In my frustration with that car I installed an extra ball valve before the carb. 

    DSC01190.JPG.180873d89f8d5c17c194e2c2caf993a5.JPG

    To garnetkid's response the Vacuum tank holds about 3/4 gallon on the Master.

  16. Need some brain storming on a persistent fuel issue on my 1925 Master. 
     Dripping from carb..... Sometimes ..... Last time overnight over a pint of fuel in the catch can I kept on the floor below the air horn. And the vacuum tank is partially drained. While the engine is running the tank is cycling. I have a visible glass inline filter to verify this.
    When shutting down the engine. I have shut off the fuel valve first and waited about a minute until the engine stumbles and then shut off ignition.
     What I have done. 
     All heat has been eliminated from the riser. I made plugs and blanking plates and gaskets. 
    Vacuum tank shut off valve was reworked so that it now shuts OFF. 
    image.jpeg.c8f4910a0a6ec19618eeaddaf424131b.jpeg
    The male double compression fitting was replaced and is now no longer leaking. 
    image.jpeg.9dc16b170706633a083e6b0ab2fcff26.jpeg
    The main fuel line was replaced since it split where it was turning up from the frame to the vacuum tank.
    image.jpeg.fab11a740512e20e3c9c28312f737634.jpeg
     The float is a nitrophil one from Gregg Lange. Set 1/8" below main jet.
     Questions:
     Could the tank valve be defective and back cycling directly into the manifold? Residual vacuum still pulling from tank?
     The previous owner's son indicated that they replaced the steel sleeve in the riser. At that time, they also had the vacuum tank rebuilt. At this point I am not sure of the quality of the riser fix. If during operation, is fuel being pulled into the chamber around the inner sleeve? That may contain the volume of fuel found in the catch can.
     Just some straws I am grasping at.
     I would love to walk into my garage and not be greeted by the fragrance of gasoline. 
     
     
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