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This is a long story, but the engine, drive train and frame are 1918 and the distributor is a Northeast. JIM

Not sure about what caused the leak. The water jacket is close to the exhaust port and I suspect over 100 years rusted thru or a casting defect. I did check the compression and all cylinders equal and normal. There was no evidence of exhaust gases in the coolant. The head gasket is a new copper gasket.

I am hoping there will be some information to there that might help me with my quandary. My 1916 Dodge started overheating this year. Last year ran fine and earlier this year. I did have a very small water leak near the #3 exhaust port and I tried to fix using some high temp JB weld and high temperature sealant which seemed to work as ran fine without leak last year. When I took my car to a local show only 7 miles away it boiled over quickly and I lost nearly 1 1/2 gallons of water on the trip. Same happened on return. When overheating the motometer was topped out. I tried to isolate the problem and tried running the car at high idle and the water seemed to rise in the header tank (starting level was just above defector plate) until there was a constant overflow out the tube. I checked the compression and equal in all 4 cylinders. I have a device that tests the air above the coolant to determine if there are combustion gases in the coolant and test was negative. I took off the lower radiator hose and flushed hose water thru and seemed to back up a bit so I took the radiator out and flushed and seems to flow just fine. The radiator by the way is a new core by Breastworks and I was able to inspect the tubes using fiberoptic device and they seemed clear. I inspected the water pump, especially the impeller which looks fine and did not rotate on the shaft. I just backlashed the block and radiator until was running clean. The only additional piece of information, I hate to admit, was that I used a product called nanotechnology block and head seal. Not sure if this might have clogged along the way but now seems to flow well. My plan is to reinstall the radiator and run. Possibly something partially blocking the coolant was dislodged during my working on the radiator and hoses. I would greatly appreciate any additional information that might be of help. Thank you everyone

I have a 1918 Dodge brothers roadster. Was running well but after last two outings, water started coming out under the radiator cap after a couple miles of driving. In four miles lost almost a quart of water or more. The engine is rebuilt, and had a recent replaced head gasket. While water is coming out the engine was not overheating until run up a hill. It has new radiator hoses and the radiator is a recored unit from Breastworks with only a few miles use. I am not able to drive more than a mile or so before this starts. It seems relatively impossible such a new radiator has clogged, but I did run a flush solution thru the engine when radiator was already installed. Maybe a leaking head gasket? Have checked timing several times and advance working well. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Looked at my frame having pictures above. I do have the plate on the drivers side. Has 4 holes and the plate is riveted to the frame. The middle of this bracket is where the battery box is attached at the front. My assumption was this was reinforcement for the weight of the battery box. The rear two holes are where the front running board bracket is attached using the same two rivets. There is a fifth hole in the bracket and frame between the rivets and this is where the battery box bracket is attached with a long bolt thru the frame and bracket. Interesting my frame had two cracks about where the frame turns at this point, one on each side so must have been a somewhat weak point, thus the reinforcement. Hope this helps.

I have a 1918 touring frame, made in March 1918. Other than the battery box there are no reinforcing plates.

When you posted this topic, made me think. When mine was taken apart the sequence was engine:support:bellhousing. However looking in my 1927 Mechanics Instruction Manual, it shows multiple plate clutch models as: engine:bellhousing:support. It was confusing at best. I then read the section about how to remove the transmission, and there is a difference between the 114” and 116” wheelbase cars. The 114” says to drop the transmission by unbolting and pulling rearward. For the 116 “ is different. The summary is that it appears the 114” sequence is engine:support:bellhousing while the 116” is engine::bellhousing:support. This is not totally clear in the manual so my plan is to measure the clutch shaft from pilot bearing seat to end that engages in the transmission and compare to what the sum of distances in the engine and transmission to be sure. Hope this helps but as woodworkers say “measure twice and cut once”.

I have a pair of the internal cast iron brakes that are rusty but are in otherwise good condition. One has the toggles in it and the other is missing. All the springs are reproduced. They would need to be relined. Let me know.

Looking for a right rear fender for my 1918 Dodge Roadster, anybody have one they would be willing to sell? The parts book shows 1918, 1919, 1920 and first part of 1021 are the same number so would work. Thanks so much.

There is a metal concave ring at the rear of the transmission and in front of the u joint that is a seal between the trans and u joint space as I understand. Maybe i am missing some thing but can not figure out how this seal is held in place? JIM

There is a metal concave ring at the rear of the transmission and in front of the u joint that is a seal between the trans and u joint space as I understand. Maybe i am missing some thing but can not figure out how this seal is held in place? JIM

My literature shows for 1916 the panes are 10"x39" both upper and lower. Shows the same for a 1917 and these are for touring as roadsters different. Hope this helps.

I am in need of an upholstery pattern for my 1917 DB roadster. I think anywhere from 1917 to early 20's would work. Maybe someone has a pattern from a prior restoration I may be able to borrow? Mine is completely missing. Have pattern for back support and springs from Roger and have seat springs but back is major problem. Thanks for any help.

Am trying to get correct wheels for my 18 Dodge roadster. Has wood felloe and have found all the parts except need 14 or more correct felloe bolts and rectangular washers. The bolts are 2 7/8" long and have a flatter head than others I have found. Has splined shaft which is a bit longer as well. Image of correct and not correct bolts attached. Please let me know if available and thanks in advance.

I am restoring a 1918 Roadster and am trying to get correct wheels. Came with steel felloe 24" wheels and am gathering parts for correct wood felloe 26" wheels. I have hubs, hub bolts, lugs, felloe bands and split rims. Have half of the correct felloe bolts but need at least 14 more. They are different from later style in that they are shorter (2 7/8") and head is flatter. They use a oblong steel washer with oblong hole. The correct one is in the image on the right compared to later on the left. Both have splines but correct one has longer splines. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jim

My parts book says the 115 ran thru at least 1920 but do not have later book. There was an early Van Sicklin but appears otherwise speedos were needle with earlier white face and later black. Jim

It appears my 1918 Dodge roadster has the wrong speedometer. The parts book looks like should be a needle speedo with black face. Mine is a barrel speedo and looks like possibly a 1920 or so. Interesting someone added a right angle drive at the transmission since, from a prior thread, the 1918 is a left turning speedo and the later right? Looking for correct one if I can find and willing to swap my later model if helps. Also looking for some of the headlight rim springs. Any help gratefully appreciated. Jim

Thanks so much. When you say bevel facing in, does that mean in toward bearing or in toward the car? I assume innermost also means toward the car?

I am replacing my front hubs on 1918 roadster to original. Unable to find good image of inner felt and washer setup. Are there 2washers on the front? If so do they both set on the shoulder against which the bearing inner surface sets? On the rear the cops are in the hub but a second washer as well. Any help greatly appreciated. JIMJIM

Can you provide me with the name and/or phone number for the hardware place in Oregon? Thanks JIM

I have a 1918 roadster with the wrong wheels. I fortunately found some correct, but am trying to remove the old hubs and brake drum to change. I can not get the hubs off. The axle is square with a drive pin from the hub thru the axle. When removed the hub moves outward about an inch but then stops. The external band is loose. I suspect the problem is the internal emergency brake mechanism. I loosened the emergency brake rod to no avail. I do not see a way of getting inside the brake hub as it is a solid metal shield rivited to the brake mechanism attached to the real tube around the axle I do see a screw on the bottomm of the hub which hold the whole mechanism t the tube around the rear axle, but am unable to get loose easily. Any experience in this area would be very appreciated. JIM

Looking for a set of 25" wheels with wooden fellow for 1918 Dodge Brothers roadster. Also looking for split rims for the same model. jcorcutt@comcast.net 206 523 4887 Thanks.

Looking for original wheels, 25" with wooden fellow. Also need split rims. Need hood for same. The project is a 1918 Dodge roadster. Thanks for any help.

If available can you email the color list? I have a 1918 roadster.thanks. jcorcutt@comcast.net

How about roadster colors for 1918?