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About StevenT

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  • Birthday 05/11/1980

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  1. It's been a while since my last update, but here's where I'm at to this point. Since last post I have finished the paint, wet sanded, and polished the cab. I then built support beams and used two 2ton chain hoists to lower the cab back on to the frame, it fit like a glove and using this method was one of the easiest drops I've ever done (you can see a little bit of one end of the support structure in the 9th photo in the garage). recovered the running boards with new rubber and then repaired and polished the stainless. I've bolted on a few little odds and ends like the wiper arm studs and cowl
  2. Hi Rick, yes I have tons of pictures of the dismantling process that I can send you. I will send you a couple of the ones in think will be most helpful and then just let me know if there are any other areas you need a good picture of.
  3. Hey Gawajn It's funny, your story about finding the correct paint is much like the one I experienced myself trying find the right color for my 1947 ford. Unfortunately it seems like it is just as difficult in the States as it is in Canada or at least it was for me. I too first visited my local Dupont Supplier where most of the original ditzler/dupont paint codes they couldn't even find information on, like you what they did find (mixed me up some samples) looked nothing like what I was looking for. $40.00 down the drain. I then went to my local PPG supplier. They were able to locate and pull u
  4. @Woodfiddler: Thank you Chuck! The push button on the dash is the starter button. There's also a turn key on the steering column but that's for locking the steering wheel and turning on the ignition, but you cant start the car until you push the starter button. @Scott: Perhaps it was a tease... I wont tell. Thanks for the comments. Ya trust me I imagine the completed car on a daily basis hoping for day when it will finally be finished. My new goal is for it to be completed in 3 months, but it will be definitely will ready for spring and will be at the AACA shows in Charlotte, NC and Clevelan
  5. @Scott: The Interior will be the original style gray cloth (like whats in this photo)
  6. Hey Guys Well its been a while since my last update! During that time we've done nothing but body work on the cab of the car and a few other things. I'm happy to say the body work on the cab has been completed and I have painted the first rough coat on the car. I will probably wet sand it this week and spray on the final few smooth coats. I had the hardest time finding the correct color I wanted but finally got what I was looking for. I went with the color "Cloud Mist Grey" that I then lightened and tinted just a little and took to our local PPG supplier to match. Here are the results, hope yo
  7. Here's a couple shot of the body after all the body work and primer was completed. Note: I haven't done any bodywork on the fenders yet, that's why it still looks beat up.
  8. @Stephen: That's a nice business coupe you got there! I can't wait for the day when i can do drives like you did in that photo. The project going good, I just finished the body work on the the cab of the car and put a nice coat of primer on it. I will try to put up a few pictures of the progress tonight or tomorrow. @Luv2Wrench: Thank you
  9. Time to fix the areas around the lower part of the cowl on both sides. Not only was the outer part of the cowl rotted but the frame box behind it was in bad shape as well. I was able to purchase a patch part from EMS for the outer part, but I had to fabricate the frame box area.
  10. Here's how the body looked after I finished sand blasting and coating the inside in a rust protection paint. You can also see where I cut out the rotted area of the trunk floor.
  11. Here’s a before and after. After I finished I painted it with rust protection, but I will have to go back and finish grinding down the welds before final paint.
  12. Time to start patching the areas that had rot-through. I started with the Front floorboard and access panel area. Here’s what I did: I first purchased a long sheet of 18 gage sheet metal from a local supplier here and then I bought a bunch tinny magnets and thin tracing paper. I placed the tracing paper over the rotted area and held it in place with magnet while I traced out the area I would replace with a sharpy marker. I made sure the sharpy bled through the tracing paper so I would have an exact copy of the pattern on the area I would later cut out. I then took the pattern and put it on a
  13. @Pat: Thanks, yes it does feel great to put brand-new bolts into a freshly restored and painted part. It beats taking old ones out any day, on this rust-bucket that was no easy task! @Don: Thank you sir @Scott: Thanks! My Restoration background no question comes directly from my Dad, he’s been doing it since he was young. We recently finished restoring our 1965 Austin Healey 3000 MKII and he is working on his 1953 Buick Convertible that I’m helping him with and he helps me with the ford. It’s been a great way to learn but also its been a great way to spend time with him. We do everything ours
  14. @Stephen48: I'd love to see some pictures of your 46 sometime. @Bilybird: Thanks! Yes I do plan to take the Ford to many of the AACA Shows. I'm on the US east coast so I usually attend most of the eastern shows and Hershy. It's my plan to have the car finished around Feb. 2012
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