Stutz in the UK

Does anyone have contact details for Carlo Bray please?

Hi Jonathan, thank you for this information. That was spooky, I went on to Discovery Turbo and it was the next programme to start! We have loads of events planned this year, it would be good to meet up What car do you have, sounds like you are competing? We have a 1917 Roadster - PM me Dave

where are you based please?

One of my friends was in the USA last year and told me (with some photos) that the Car Show, Chasing Classic cars guy Wayne Carini won a prize with his Stutz 1917/18 Does anyone have any more information and is there a link to view this show. I am in the UK and we haven't had the latest series shown here Thanks

what age car / engine please?

is Cadmium plating what you are looking for?

You can obtain all the information about this plate if you contact penndot www.dmv.state.pa.us and pay a fee

Does anyone have a picture of the type of windscreen wiper that would be fitted to my 1917 Roadster please? All I have right now is a hole through the top rail of the screen I guess you guys in sunnier climates don't need such things, but I am in the UK where it rains quite a lot! Thanks

where are you based? I would walk into a good bearing shop and get them to match it up

what does he need to know?

You are lucky, the cars that follow me home have a blue light on top!

Dear All I am trying to carry out some research - any information would be useful please. Attached to the engine side of the wooden bulkhead on my 1917 Stutz Roadster is a metal plate It reads: SPECIAL NUMBER PLATE S 31833 PA. DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE PENNSYLVANIA Does anyone know what this plate is for please, or when it was issued? My car is now in the UK and came to the UK from Italy. I don't have very much history of the car before it went to Italy. However, from another plate (or to be precise, a rally plaque), attached this time to the drivers side of the bulkhead, I know the car was at some time in Dearborn. This plate says 'Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan 1951, Veteran Motor Car Club of America'. Is this near the Henry Ford Foundation? Does anyone have a programme from this rally that might list a previous owner or some of the cars history please? Any information would be useful regarding either plate please Thank you, Regards Dave

Dear All I am trying to carry out some research - any information would be useful please. Attached to the engine side of the wooden bulkhead on my 1917 Stutz Roadster is a metal plate It reads: SPECIAL NUMBER PLATE S 31833 PA. DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE PENNSYLVANIA Does anyone know what this plate is for please, or when it was issued? My car is now in the UK and came to the UK from Italy. I don't have very much history of the car before it went to Italy. However, from another plate (or to be precise, a rally plaque), attached this time to the drivers side of the bulkhead, I know the car was at some time in Dearborn. This plate says 'Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan 1951, Veteran Motor Car Club of America'. Is this near the Henry Ford Foundation? Does anyone have a programme from this rally that might list a previous owner or some of the cars history please? Any information would be useful regarding either plate please Thank you, Regards Dave

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I am thinking of using a template and then an airbrush to make sure there's only very little paint applied

You are simply wrong, the oil available back then (1930's and 1940's and likely 1920's to 1950's) in the UK was that bad. Dealers sold replacement engines (just after the 2nd world war) for around £10 (held as stock items) - you could drop your car off on the way to work and drive home with a replacement engine fitted. This was (in the UK) as standard as having new brakes fitted today. I have first hand experiance of this. Oil was very poor quality back then and simply did not stay in grade, it was very thick when you poured it in (in cold weather you had to heat the can to get it out) a few 1000 miles later the oil was like water. Of course all oil available today is much better for your engine today than it was back then (assuming you put in the correct grade of oil), BUT some MODERN ADDITIVES eat phospher bronze bearings and will cause roller bearings to slide and damage the bearings As you say, you know little about England, I am really interested to hear if things were different in the USA

In the UK we struggle with oil on occassions. It is my understanding that older engines (those with plain (roller or ball bearing) or white metal bearings or bronze plain bearings) dont like the modern additives added to protect modern (fast reving) engines. We tend to buy stright grade oil (30W or 40W) which we are told contains no additives. I have seem evidance of modern multigrade oils causing plain bearings (roller and ball) to skid rather than turn and then fail. I further understand that oil (pre war) in the UK was as thick as grease when added and as thin as kerosine when it came out a few hundred miles later. Motor Oil technoligy has moved on in great leaps and bounds so a stright grade oil, is likely much better now, than anything made when the car in question was new

Does anyone have experiance of painting a (white) number into the radiator core of a honeycomb radiator - the car is 1917 and the radiator is painted black - the car is in 'working clothes' condition so I want the number to look like its always been there, not to look 'as' painted What paint should I use and how should I go about this task please? Thank you

I have a small book titled - Special Stromberg Carburetor Equipment (Stromberg OA-1) for MAXWELL Cars Instructions for Installation and Adjustment Great little book (9 inches by 6 inches) showing showing how to install the Stromberg OA-1 Carburetor onto Maxwell Cars from 1918, 1919 and 1920 to 1922. Books has great descriptions and illustrations and is in really good condition. The book includes diagrams and set-up instructions Send me a message if it is of interest to you, it would be good for it to go to a good home

So, even if this might be possible, it might not be desirable. The loose leather belt is important to maintan any life in the bearings of the fan. A loose coupled jointed leather belt is best for this. As you will know, there is no adjustment and the tendancy to put a one piece belt on might mean 'too tight' a belt causing damage The fan only needs to turn when at rest anyway, the radiator is more than capable of keeping the engine cool once on the move (I think)

Ah, I understand now. My clutch is leather but needs to be oiled most days with neatsfoot (saddle) oil to make it less grabby. Did you follow Laydens suggestion of leaving a few high spots on the leather so you have a bit of 'feel' when you let the pedal out? I am assuming your car is fitted with the pad stop which is bolted to the outer casing and (helps) stop the clutch cone spinning to make first and reverse easier to select?

Why did you replace the lining, was it worn out?

Dear Layden This is a picture of the dash board switch fitted to my car, you will see it reads 4 volts

Dear All, does anyone know please what Magneto was original equipment on my car (1917 Roadster with Wisconsin engine) I am informed it should be a BOSCH ZR4 twin, my car has a BOSCH ZR4 Dual. so, I have a dual ignition system (one set of plugs) and a BOSCH Trembler coil, with a rotary switch on the dash board to switch it from one to the other. The serial number of my Magneto is 1390819 and its stamped marked NEW YORK, I am told this magneto may date from March 1912? The coil on my car has number 122838 stamped on the switch face, along with 4 volts. I have been told this dates from 1910/11? I am informed the correct serial number for the magneto I need to find would be from the range 1900000 to 2300000 This information can come to me from a long term magneto expert in Italy, but he suggested I check with the club and other experts before looking to source a replacement. Did Stutz use 4 volt coils or 6 volt please? Thank you in advance for any replies.

Layden, are the two types of wheel retainers interchangable then please - i.e. the one you have pictured and the one I have posted?

Layden, I agree, the clutch is just there to get the car moving and not for slipping. Also, I feel getting up the gearbox as soon as possible and staying in high gear for as long as possible is the way to drive these cars. The good thing with manual advance and retard is that you can keep the engine happy at very low revs...