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    Instrumentation Restorer
  • Birthday 05/19/1980

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  1. Looks a lot more like an early 50's Sunbeam-Talbot to me.
  2. Hello. We have a lovely restored 57' Airbox tachometer for sale. It can be viewed here: Thanks for looking!
  3. I am not an expert in the wiring of your vehicle, but have some trepidation regarding a voltage "boost" solving any real issues. Chassis voltage can range on a 6 volt system and the increase in voltage hardly seems to be much of an improvement. If there are existing ground issues, etc. they will still be there regardless of the proposed 30% increase in voltage. Just my 2 cents.
  4. It would be wise to disconnect the cable from the speedometer, in case it is the speedometer head making the noise you have described. If the speedometer is wearing out, further engagement can lead to the magnet shaft seizing and breaking your cable as well as the speedometer's internal gearing. If it is the cable, you can sometimes work some lubricant into the sheath, but it is best to remove the core, clean, inspect and lubricate.
  5. Congrats! As per the Mac's fluid, I had heard they used a fugitive dye in the early batches, but I have not had anyone tell me that their fluid bleached out.
  6. Mac's has the fluid and line kits at a very reasonable price. We don't even stock them anymore and just refer folks to Mac's.
  7. It is important to check your wiring before assuming repair, but yes, your gauge appears to require service. I would assume that you are still 6 volt? Also, 9/10 times the sender has issues due to the environment that it is subjected to vs the gauge. Both units need to be well grounded.
  8. Per my recollection, the 57' is the standard 30 ohm range that was used till 64' (barring a couple exceptions). Have you performed a basic continuity test on the gauge? At the gauge, ground the sending unit post, the gauge should read empty. Isolate the sending unit post (at the gauge) and the gauge should read full. If nothing happens, the gauge has lost continuity somewhere and can be repaired or replaced. Often they lose ground connection through the mount plate.
  9. Correct and the fluid is rather corrosive to steel, etc. In most circumstances, handling of any automotive fluids should be performed with proper safety apparatus. I would recommend rinsing the cleaned tube/reservoir out with some acetone as it dries quickly and leaves no residue. When you go to install said gauge and perform your final calibration, you may find this instruction sheet (that I will attempt to attach) useful.
  10. Whatever you have about. HCl works well. I was confused on the temperature gauge soldering that you wanted to remove. Do not unsolder the line from the temperature gauge as it is "charged" with volatile fluid/gas and is flammable. Not to mention the gauge would no longer function.
  11. Technically, switching the wires can damage the gauge, if it has a short. The posts are marked IGN and TANK or SENDER on the insulator. Your gauge also has a ground connection to the mount plate. With your ohm meter, check the reading from IGN post to ground (mount plate), Post to Post and Sender Post to Ground (mount plate). You could still have an issue, but that gives you a basic idea of continuity and transverse coil condition. Very often, the gauge loses continuity to the ground connection. Other than that, the sender is usually at fault and needs to be the correct ohm range (30 ohm) for the application.
  12. A mild acid works well to help dissolve the bromide residue. I do not have that cluster in front of me, is the temperature gauge mechanical?
  13. Several issues could cause this problem, but in any case, having the speedometer serviced would be recommended.
  14. I doubt anyone is selling odometer parts commercially, if so I'd love to know. You may be best off with sending your speedometer to an instrumentation shop for repair and service or purchasing a known good speedometer.
  15. Speedometers are calibrated to a standard ratio and any adjustment for differences in running gear is performed by changing out the speedometer drive gear. That being said, speedometers do lose magnetism and come out of calibration over time. I recommend having your speedometer serviced (cleaned/calibrated) every 10 years as regular maintenance.