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About Krooser

  • Birthday 12/12/1948

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  1. Always try to do a resto using original parts… most aftermarket stuff is cheap off shore junk. What do you need?
  2. Here's a good projectr car. Came north from Mississippi in 2005. I bought the car about three years ago intending on doing a resto but a bad back and poverty have changed my plans. The car is 90% free of exterior rust out. The worst parts are the rockers and the tail pan under the decklid. No rust out on the fenders, doors, etc. It does need some floor pan work and trunk floor work but they are mostly there to redo. No front/rear glass. This was a 'mild 60's custom' and the hood stainless trim has been removed and it was filled in with bodo which is now coming off in chunks. It does have the remnants of some neat 60's style pinstriping. I have most of the exterior trim pieces. I have the very rare rear seat cushion frames. I do not have any of the dashboard gauges. This was originally an 8 cylinder, 3 speed car. No engine or trans. I DO have a Wisconsin title… ask for details. The car is located in central Wisconsin. It will have to be picked up as I have sold my trailer. The price is $950.00.
  3. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171151690073?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  4. Project '52 Catalina Super Deluxe. Straight body. No front or rear glass but side glass is there. Needs floors... trunk floor better but needs some work. No engine/trans. Was a manual trans car. Mississippi car... a bit of rust out in the tail pan but otherwise very little outer panel rust. I have most of the trim parts but no guarantee that I have everything. Priced to move @$1400.00. Rick 715-252-7048. Central Wisconsin.
  5. They used to take Type A trans fluid which has been superseded by Dexron....
  6. You can still buy those old Frantz Oil Cleaners that used toilet paper as a filter medium.... As far as replacing everything that you can, that's what today's "parts replacers" do... not old time mechanics. The good ones repaired things. One reason was new parts were scarce 60+ years ago... many guys were depression babies and learned to make what they have work without spending a small fortune. When I started working at a gas station at age 14 I learned to rebuild generators and starters in our shop. We arced every brake shoe we installed. We had a couple customers with 30's vintage Fords and one job I had was to clean out the oil pans by removing the large inspection plate at the bottom of the pan... Granted today's cars are different but thank God we still have these old rides around to enjoy.
  7. Most cranks can be polished unless the wear is abnormal or scored. You can then use a .001 or .002 undersize bearing....
  8. It's likely a tight fit...use a soft hammer or a hammer and a block of wood.
  9. I have never primed an engine before painting. I always figured any "high temp" formula would be enough...although many show cars builders do use a primer... but most of those cars seldom get driven....they are pieces of jewelry to the owners. The Hirsch paint should work very well... another good choice is POR15 engine paint.
  10. A few years ago I sold a vintage Edmunds aluminum head, a two deuce intake with a couple of Stromberg 97's and a W&H Du-Coil distributor... all for the Pontiac 8. Too bad... that would be great eye candy for this build! It's probably a good thing the engine didn't run... that goop in the bottom of the pan surely would have had some effect on oil circulation. Back in the day it was not unusual to remove the pan at certain intervals and clean the sludge out and clean the screen... those pix are the reason why. Otherwise that old girl looks VERY nice... you have a winner!
  11. Manuals? We don't need no stinkin manuals! Glad you got it apart. One word of caution on that engine stand... those ratings mean squat... make sure you support the front of that big 8 with a 2X4 or equivalent. Those Chinese lbs are much lighter the Canadian lbs! I have seen them crack welds and/or bend with a BBC on the stand. BTW... that engine is actually pretty clean inside... should be a good rebuilder.
  12. I think I posted a photo of the old Gibson building in Appleton on the other thread. It is vacant now but has most recently been a cafe. The next time i drive by I will snap a photo... it's a beautiful Art Deco design. If I has seen that Poncho for sale I would have bought it... I live 30 miles of there right on Hwy 54. I just bought a '54 Caddy 331 with a Hydramatic for a future project... i can learn from your miscue!
  13. You may have to unbolt the flywheel from the fluid coupling...it's been 50 years or so since i had one of these apart. There should be a sheet metal cover under the front of the transmission. I remember an earlier post about there being a "Gibson" dealer badge on this car... did you buy it near Appleton, WI?
  14. Why not paint the car in lacquer as it was from the factory? Easy to spray... easy to repair the screw-ups and much cheaper overall. And, I believe, it looks more original than those two stage paints. I have no objections to two stage paints... but they just don't look "right" on a restoration. Lacquers are still available from several sources like Bill Hirsch and others.
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