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About wacker

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 01/05/1987
  1. Its now assembled and it seems like the noise is gone. I have just done a shorter test trip for about 5 mintutes of driving. Will test more tomorrow when its not that dark outside.
  2. Got the bearings replaced now and I am almost done with the assembly. Do anyone have a good description on how to set the differential side bearing preload? The manual says that it should be unloaded untill the race stops turning but I cant get that working. Maybe the new style of the bearings acts differently. I understand on how to set the backlash but the preload seems more complicated. Both the wheel bearings and differential bearings had some marks on it so I hope thats what has been creating the whining. Thanks Stefan
  3. Hi All, Im now selling my 320 assembly from Blake on ebay. Starting price is 399 USD. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252032001774 It was a bit to much racing for me and Im now going back to stock. I think it will be at much better use by someone else. I still think its a good kit and Bryan has provided good support. Thank you Bryan. If you want full support and warranty then buy directly from blake/bryan. If you want it a bit cheaper buy mine.
  4. Thanks all. Will order the bearings and hope that it will fix it. If not at least I will have new bearings
  5. Sounds wise. Thanks The sound has been there from when I bought it 4 years ago but after renovating both the dynaflow and the engine it feels like I should do something about this. I hade the cover removed last winter and I did not see any scored gears there so I would not expect it now either. Can the differential bearings be easily removed with the differential on the car? I had a quick look at the shop guide but I dont think its obvious on how it is done. I will remove the axles anyway to replace the wheel bearings.
  6. From what I understand gear and ring noise should normally be during acceleration and should not either change when turning. From what I have been able to find carrier bearing sound can change when turning on cars with c-clips(I believe this differential got it). Its not easy to find anyone experienced in rear ends around here and I dont like the idea with leaving the car at a shop for weeks. I I dont do it by myself I think I would rather take the whole rear end there. In any case it would be nice to hear if anyone else had the same noise and got it fixed.
  7. Hi I got a Buick roadmaster -48 with Dynaflow that got a whining/howling sound from the rear when driving. You can hear it under partial load and it peaks around 50 MPH. If you either starts to accelerate or take you foot of the gas it goes away. It also goes away directly if a just make a slight left turn. The fact that is changes depending on the load of the rear axle makes me thinking about the rear axle but since it changes when I make turns is strange. Is it possible that that the rear wheel bearing sound will change depending on if im accelerating or not? Or can the sound from carri
  8. Hi, I got the dual manifold for the 1941 320 engine and im trying to figure out the correct setting for the "thermostat" for the manifold heat control valve. My manual for the 1948 manifold says that it should be winded up around 1/4 turn before it attach to the anchor stud. Is it the same for the 1941? The Valve does look a bit differrent with the counterweights but in general terms it the same setup. Regards Stefan
  9. Hi, I got a 1948 Roadmaster Sedanette running 8.20-15 Firestone tires and the 6.5" inch rims. This should be around the stock setup and still I do get clearance problems between the tie rod and the tire. When the car is on the ground the clearance is less than 1/8" and in some situations it seems to rub the tire. How much clearance are you getting on your setups on the same model? Right now im running with washers behind the steering arm to get some extra clearance but I cant understand why im having this problem. Are the Firestone 8.20s much broader than the old 8.20s? Im thinking about findi
  10. I am looking for the Valve adjustment ball(s) since mine are in bad shape for some unknown reason. I managed to buy two from buickfarm.net that will replace the worst but more of them are of interest. Thanks
  11. Hi, Im looking for valve adjuster for my -48 320 engine with mechanic lifters. Both adjusters for hydraulic and mechanic lifters are of interest. Regarsds Stefan
  12. Hi, Im currently rebuilding my Buick 320 -48 and are thinking about dipping the whole block in acid to get rid of rust and paint. Before doing this I have to remove the camshaft bearings. Will I get into trouble if I try to remove them and then install the same again? I guess they are just pressed into place? While doing this it might be an idea to replace them, Egge got them in their catalogue but Im a bit worried since the workshop manual says they have to be honed to fit. Is that right or will the ones from Egge be the correct size from start? Thanks Stefan
  13. Thanks, I think its really beautiful. Does anyone have a spare one to sell ?
  14. Hi Everybody. I got a Oldsmobile taillight that Im trying to identify. The text on it says Oldsmobile 98 -49 but when looking at pictures on internet most 98s seems to have a differnt tail light. Which models would this fit on? I only got this one and are looking for the other side. Thanks in advance
  15. Early 48 engines up to serial 5192693 should have mechanical lifters according to what I have heard. What would be the negative effect on running hollow push rods on an engine with mechanical lifters? The lenght would surely be nice to have but I guess I just have to take one out and meassure it. Im thinking of ordering some from Smith Bros.
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