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About thomas1ds

  • Birthday 10/20/1974

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  1. Hi All, Anyone know where I can find a cross reference guage, parts or replacement for a speedometer off a 1935 Dodge 4 door sedan? My internal worm gears inside the guage are shot
  2. Hello Dodge Brothers, I need your expertise. I've been searching for a cowl vent screen for my 1935 Dodge DU 4 door Sedan for quite a while now. I found this on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-PLYMOUTH-CAR-COWL-VENT-SECTION-OPENING-DOOR-COUPE-SEDAN-ORIGINAL-/222549752683 It's a cowl vent screen and vent assembly off of a 1936 Plymouth car. Will this cowl vent screen on ebay fit on my 35 Dodge DU? I was wondering if the parts are compatible because looking at the pictures, it looks pretty darn close.
  3. I was looking at what I now know is a 1935 Airstream CZ Deluxe with a flathead 8 over the weekend and wanted to know how to verify if the engine is the one that came with the car from the factory. The info is below.. -Engine # CZ-9819 (Stamped on driverside engine block near cyl head) -Serial # 6709979 (Stamped on plate near passenger side door hinge) -Body No: CZ4T-4885 (Stamped on a small plate mounted on the driver side firewall) -Serial No: 1417 (Stamped on passenger side firewall) Tom
  4. Thanks for the info everybody. 35cz8 you described all the physical features to a T! Looks like I've got the CZ Deluxe coming my way this weekend, hopefully I can post pics soon. Looks like I will be looking for a flathead 8 cylinder head because this one seems to have too many cracks, wear & tear to repair. Thanks again guys. Tom
  5. Hello, I am looking at a 35 Chrysler Airstream 4 door sedan with a trunk, (Asking $9000) I cannot make out what model it is. The seller gave me the following info, but I can't find out anything specific about these numbers online. My question is: Is this the Deluxe Touring Sedan? If so, how many of this particular model made? Any help would be appreciated -Serial # 6709979 (On plate near passenger side door hinge) -Body No: CZ4T-4885 (On the firewall) -Paint No: 302 -Trim No: 278 -Job No: 55-171
  6. 1936 D2, I recently did the timing on my 1935 Dodge. For starters, you mentioned something about hard starting when hot. Does it crank over slowly when hot?...If I were to guess, this is a symptom of timing that is too far advanced during cranking speed. My timing was set at 2 deg ATDC and I have no problems with start ups, cold or hot. Let me just list a brief summary of timing in degrees vs engine speed, then explain... 350 Rpm - Cranking speed - mechanical advance activated slightly, & should advance timing 1 deg to 3 deg. 800 Rpm - Idle speed - mechanical advance activated & should advance timing to about 6 deg BTDC. 3000 Rpm - High Speed - mechanical advance, vacuum advance activated & should advance timing to about 24 deg BTDC. Explanation: 350 Rpm - During cranking speed, mechanical advance should put timing at 0deg TDC or AFTER. This is important because why would you want your poor little starter fighting against violent explosions in the combustion chamber? Power stroke on these engines should be at TDC or after TDC (ignition while the piston is on its way going down!). STATIC TIMING MUST BE SET 1st With the engine NOT running, put your crank at 2 deg ATDC, pull #1 plug out, wire still attached to plug, turn distributor ccw until spark occurs at the plug...presto. Static timing is set. Now during cranking, mechanical advance is activated & should put power stroke @ TDC or later. 800 Rpm - Mechanical advance is activated at start up. The faster the distributor spins the harder mechanical advance works. Higher engine speed means more advanced timing because air flow is SLOW compared to piston speed & spark speed. (Don't know how else to put it..Ha!) 3000 Rpm - Mechanical advance and vacuum advance is activated. These combined timing advancing mechanism are causing max timing advance. Make sure your vacuum advance hose is attached to PORT VACUUM and not MANIFOLD VACUUM. Port vacuum is a vacuum that occurs above the throttle plate (above idle). Manifold vacuum is a vacuum that occurs below the throttle plate (Idle). Hope this clears things up and helps. I am not an expert, but always willing to offer insight if I have any. I'd be glad to hear of any news of progress on this issue. Good Luck, Thomas
  7. Hello all, I saw an ad on craigslist for a 1935 Dodge Coupe for sale. Looks like just body and frame...she needs rescuing Just thought I'd let people know when I run across things out there to help people out here.....Here's the link. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4347804602.html Thomas in Pacifica CA
  8. Hello, I have a question about my 1935 Dodge 4 Dr Sedan. There is a white knob on the dash labeled with a "T" on it. It is connected to the throttle on the carb, but what exactly did they use it for? Cruise control?
  9. I was searching on the frame, behind the left front leaf spring for the Serial # for my 1935 Dodge 4 Door Sedan, but had no luck. Any suggestions on where else I should look? The Serial # Tag on the right front door pillar is gone, and so is the one on the firewall. All I have is the stamped engine number which is: D2-222423. Isn't this # supposed to start with DU-xxxxxx for my car? Thanks, Tom
  10. Just like the title says..... Old Photo: 1935 Dodge 4 Door Sedan Fastback with Side Mount Spare Seems kind of an odd options package, wouldn't it be cheaper to just mount the spare on the back?
  11. Thanks for your reply 1936 D2 ! I really admire your ride. Looks like a long road ahead for me because I would like to restore my Dodge to its original condition...I'm so glad I found this website
  12. Thanks for the reply keiser 31. Your knowledge and insight is priceless. I managed to remove the connection between the rear taillight and license plate bracket and low and behold, the ORIGINAL PAINT was still in between the two joining parts! Looks like some sort of army green or something. I will post photos of the underside of the fender soon. Look at the photo I found on ebay.....
  13. This car was inherited about 5 years ago from my dad. I've hardly had any time to work on it, until recently. Just got the original rims and tires back on. A lot of time is spent trying to find a few parts here and there to make it complete. The car was repainted in the past by the previous owner. More pictures to come. I am not sure if this car originally had spare tires on the front fenders or not, but if you look under the front passenger side fender, you can see a wheel shaped enclosure that had been bodywork filled on the top, so you could never tell from above. (The driver side front fender does not have this enclosure).I'll attach pictures of the underside of fender soon. Is there a way to tell if these fender well spares were original equipment? What are my chances of finding the tire covers and all the bells and whistles that come with it? All I have to go on is a Serial number on the engine. All other tags on the vehicle are gone :-(
  14. Wow you do amazing work. Can you be my guide in my restoration please? I have a 1935 Dodge 4 Door Sedan also. I am still searching for a few parts still with little to no luck. :-(
  15. Hey Dave, can you keep your eyes peeled for these parts? They are for a 1935 Dodge 4 Door Sedan...... -Front (L) and ® Fender Support Brackets<o:p></o:p> -Headlight Switch (White Knob with "H" printed on it)<o:p></o:p> -Throttle Knob (White Knob with "T" printed on it)<o:p></o:p> -6 Volt Generator (Alternator)<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p>
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