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About Touringcuda

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  • Birthday 03/28/1952

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    NE Ohio
  • Interests:
    Old cars, Photography


  • Biography
    Long time AACA tourer.

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  1. Piston #6 Any thoughts on "B" "C" 117 maybe machinist or inspection All bores are .010 over size. I do not know if engine was ever rebuilt. #6 Intake valve is different than the others. there are some small stencils also..... s on #6 for example. Bores look good. Compression test last fall were all a touch less than 90#. Looks like SC DeSoto and DK Dodge were the same pistons. There was lots of carbon. I scraped it with a utility knife blade. Bob
  2. The history of our car is vague. In 1991 it won a trophy in Carlisle Spring Car Show when the restoration was done. I believe it had a AACA Senior. It appears to have been a rust free car. As far as the engine we can only guess. We have had the car since 2011. This is the first that I have had the head off. A good friend miced the bores the other day and found them all to be 10 over. I will post more pictures of piston tops and maybe we can decode further the stencils. There was lots of carbon. My plans are to put head back on for now and pull engine this fall for further exam. We have 2 tours planned this summer. Bob
  3. One more pic that dodge bros. may find interesting. note stencil on #1 piston. 2 thru six are the same. Number 1 is for #1 piston. What does B signify? 117 may be an inspector? Obviously Kilroy was not here. I would load the other 5 pics but I might overload the internet...........😉 SC-DK.
  4. The radiator on our 32 is secured to the grill with 8 slot head machine screws. I removed them then the x brace that ties the radiator/grill to the fire wall. 4 more bolts hold the body panels below the radiator with the "6" over the crank hole. 2 vertical bolts hold the radiator/grill assembly to the frame. I was able to rock the grill and painted surround forward enough to leave the radiator just sitting there loose. I rotated the fan witch is not a 90 degree x to where it looked like obstructions on the radiator would clear the fan. I put my 3 step ladder astraddle the bumper protected the honeycomb with some cardboard and wiggled the radiator out. My pictures file sizes are too large. Three more pictures to follow.
  5. Thanks for the chart. I have 7/16 studs. Picked up my temperature sensing bulb complete with gauge at NAPA. I decided to remove the radiator and have it checked while things are torn apart. It was somewhat of an undertaking to get the radiator out of that grill. I quit when the radiator lifted out now I still have to figure out how the grill can be removed. Any one out there knowledgeable on the removal of the grill enclosure? Tomorrow off to radiator shop. Thanks All
  6. This is an awesome web site. (restorecarsclassifieds) Is it possible to download and save the entire book?? I have seen bits and pieces of it before but did not know how to access the entire volume. Oh by the way We have a 1932 DeSoto SC. Thanks
  7. Removed the head had it checked and it was warped. Took it to a recommended local machine shop that specializes in antique engine rebuilds. He has a surface grinder and trued up the head while I waited. He paused 3 or 4 times in the grinding process to allow the head to cool and gave us a tour of his shop. He is finishing the build on his Ford T for the upcoming repeat of the 1909 Ocean to Ocean Automobile Endurance Contest. I didn't hear his car run but he compared it as sounding like a sprint racer. He was also installing hardened valve seats in a straight 8 Packard when we arrived. Thanks ply33 for the repair tempgauge advice. Tomorrow I am going to my local NAPA in search of a compatible sensing bulb. What is the proper torque for the head studs?? Thanks to All Bob
  8. I easily removed the gland nut and over several days and many applications of penetrating oil the sensing bulb refused to budge. I worked the adaptor back and forth a few degrees initially and applied penetrating oil there also hoping it might help internally. To make a long story short I also twisted mine off. DeSoto has no freeze plug for access. Once I had the adaptor with the bulb still stuck inside I picked and picked at the built up rust applied more penetrating oil and it is still stuck there. I have gotten suggestions of a few suppliers, Tractor Supply, NAPA .... etc, that may have temporary replacements so I can replace the head and road test my head gasket fix. Ply33 is the supplier still around that repaired yours?? Thanks in advance Bob