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About Touringcuda

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  • Birthday 03/28/1952

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  • Location:
    NE Ohio
  • Interests:
    Old cars, Photography


  • Biography
    Long time AACA tourer.

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  1. Good Job !!!!!!! We hope you are still wanting to drive Daphne when the time comes. I have been prepping our DeSoto for the Glidden Tour in Twin Falls, Idaho. Bob and Sally
  2. Jeff emailed me Monday. I called today and my U-nuts are on the way. Thanks again to all.
  3. Thanks for the suggestions. Wow are there a lot of vendors out there!!! Wikepedia informed me.......... U-nut[edit] A U-nut is very similar to a J-nut except that both legs are the same length. Because of this a retaining clip is usually formed on the leg without the threads. This helps keep the nut in place while not screwed down. The thread may be of a speed nut style, integrated nut, or have an extruded portion that is tapped.There are "standard" and "wide-panel" versions; the standard version has a solid hinge section, whereas the wide-panel version has a longer hinge with the center section cut-away to allow for easier installation. The deepest that most are is 3/4 to 7/8 inch deep so I am still searching. Jeff @ restorationspecialties was at Charlotte for the swap meet over the weekend. Maybe he might help.
  4. Thanks Just sent the updated pic to Bob
  5. I am going to attach splash pans to my 1932 DeSoto that have been setting in a box for too many years. Was going to use 1/4 20 bolts 1" long thru existing holes in the frame held with a flat washer, nut, flat washer, splash pan, flat washer and nut. When I got to the passenger side splash pan I noticed that two of the Extruded U Nut clips were on the frame. I require 10. The U Nut Clips will make a neater job with the splash pan resting against the frame. The center of the 5/16" hole in the frame is 1" from the edge of the frame. Therein lies my problem. Does anyone know of a vendor that makes such a clip. (picture attached) This Clip has 1" offset. I would think all Chrysler products of the era would be the same. Most vendors have either 1/2" or 3/4" offset. I would rather find the one I need as pull the hole with a file Touringcuda
  6. Found Taylormade thread in the Dodge forum. I am catching up on your project. Hope to stop by soon. My motor is similar. Mains are insert and the rest babbitt.
  7. Sorry for the slow response. The pictures are great. I have not been under my car since I looked at them but they appear almost identical. Our car was restored in 1991. I know next to nothing about its history but it appears to have had caring owners previous to the restoration. The fellow that restored it has passed but I do know where he lived in Pennsylvania. I definitely will be contacting Then and Now about my motor mounts. I wonder if they will be at Hershey? It appears that you had the motor rebuilt. do you mind telling who did the work? Is your 32 fully assembled yet? Your rear end gear ratio is similar to mine. Mine is 4.60 to 1. I have thought of possibly some sort of overdrive some day. We do a lot of touring but the scenery does look nice at 45 mph. The attached pictures were taken at Yellowstone Park. It was quite a climb from Cody. We followed a 32 Chevy 4 door as he struggled up the last steep grade into the park. He turned around and went back down the hill and we went on and looped thru the park and saw "Old Faithful". Thanks again, I would like to stay in touch and hopefully share info about the cars. Our drive trains are for the most part identical. We leave tomorrow for the Glidden Tour in Hastings Nebraska. When I return the oil pan will be on my list.
  8. Looks like my next logical step is to clean the oil pan. Can someone who has done this with the motor in the car advise me of the procedure? I think that by 1932 Chrysler and Dodge 6's were also into floating power and in 33 the Plymouth 6 also. They should be similar. The cross member at the rear of the oil pan, does it support the motor or just reinforce the frame and hold the splash pans? There is little clearance there and I can't see if it is bolted or not. Probing with my fingers it feels like there may be a soft rubber support there. Also does anyone know of a vendor that re-vulcanizes the (floating power) motor mounts? Last year I had to unbolt and jack up front of motor to change my fan belt. The fan belt wouldn't quite clear the brake line underneath because the rubber is becoming spongy. Thanks again.
  9. First of all thanks for the response. Our SC is a Four Door and 5 years ago I got a lot of excellent advice on this forum. The first response from an actual owner means a lot because I did not know what normal oil consumption rates might be. Before I would make the switch to detergent I need to drop the pan and clean the crud out. Have you done this on your car. I know the motor is supported under the water pump. At the rear of the oil pan is a cross brace that I need to remove. There also is a support at the rear of the transmission. Will the front water pump support and the rear transmission support hold everything while I remove the cross brace at the rear of the oil pan? Clearances are close here (cross brace) and I cant tell if it is actually a support for the motor or a stiffener for the frame and a place to bolt the side trays. Floating power was new this year. I have been wanting to drop the pan for a couple of years so this fall it will happen. The owners manual says this is annual maintenance. As to the compression pressure any and all input is appreciated. My searching on the internet for any and all information about the 1932 SC motor has educated and somewhat confused me and certainly generated many questions. 1932-3 DeSoto Complete Motor Specs Clutch Steering Brakes.pdf If I attached this file correctly it shows my compression ratio at 5.35 and compression pressure at 90-95. I think it came from the website. When we did the compression pressure test the motor was warm and we pulled all plugs but I forgot to hold throttle open. Somewhere I thought I read that the open throttle isn't mandatory with a six because there are intake valves open to compensate? Should i repeat the compression pressure test? My formula at 1000 feet elevation would be (14.16 PSIA) X (5.35 compression ratio) X (0.75) = 56.82 then add 28.86 for a grand total of 85.67 witch corresponds well with the 90 - 95 on the attached file for a new motor. Could it be that bad oil rings or excess crud around them might be the cause of oil consumption?? Am I moving on the right track if I slowly introduce detergent oil to the motor after a complete cleaning of the oil pan?? I welcome any and all input. Another spin on the subject is that I believe the 32 Desoto was one of the first with inserts in the mains. I purchased a 1928 - 1933 Desoto Master Parts List reprint off E-Bay this winter and the inserts are listed. Our DeSoto will be on the Glidden Tour in Hastings Nebraska week after next. Bob
  10. First of all it is running fine except for some oil consumption. We have had the car for 5 years and tour with it regularly. This has resulted in roughly 7500 enjoyable miles. A quart of oil every 150 miles. Motor has 73,500 miles showing. The car was restored about 25 years ago and was not driven much. I do not know if motor has ever been rebuilt. I was thinking either the oil consumption would either abate or get worse. I still use non detergent oil with no additives. I do oil changes after every tour (500 - 700 mi.) Would adding Marvel Mystery Oil hurt or help? Just did a compression test last week and got 80# on all 6 cylinders. It checked in the low 70's 5 years ago. What should my pressure be? Car does not smoke but I feel it should have more zip. What are thoughts on introducing some detergent oil. Appreciate any suggestions I may need to change my name Touringcuda
  11. We will be doing some high altitude touring. Are there any adjustments that can be made to help with the thin air. We have a 1932 DeSoto SC 4 Door. Five years ago my mentors here helped me with the learning curve. We will be driving Cody Wyoming to Yellowstone and back with approximately 100 cars of 30's and 40's vintage. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Touringcuda
  12. The 1931 Dodge 6 and 1932 DeSoto 6 have the same displacement. Is this a coincidence or are some parts the same? Did the 1932 Dodge use the Carter BB1 updraft carburetor? If so is there any adjustment to lean the fuel mix? Week after next we are touring from Cody, Wyoming to Yellowstone and back and we are cautioned to adjust our mixture if we can. Touringcuda
  13. Sorry for delay Our 1932 has about 6 inches of front to back adjustment. There is a screw with acme threads in the front center of the seat down low by the floor. If we are carrying passengers we adjust forward for easier rear access. Bob
  14. Contacted a 32 DeSoto owner and he took a picture with his cell of his carb. I was missing a spring to close the butterfly on the carb. All problems should be that simple. What an enjoyable car. 3 Glidden Tours, 2 Heritage Tours, 1 Grand Indiana and a Bootlegger in 1000 Islands. (We are looking for a sponsor) Bob
  15. Many apologizes again for the break in posts. We have been enjoying the car with few problems until today. I started the car and pulled it out of the garage put it in neutral and set the brake and when I backed off on the choke and throttle the motor continued to race and I had to turn off the switch to stop it. Oh..... also I had goosed the throttle as a reflex that works on a car with automatic choke. I still have the original updraft setup. Is there supposed to be a spring somewhere to return the butterfly to an idle? It ran perfect when I parked it 3 weeks ago. Any suggestions?? A picture or illustration would be helpful.