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Everything posted by deburt65

  1. Recently found my front yoke on the drive-shaft was damaged by a worn out u-joint. It was suggested to me to advertise for a used one via AACA. The front flange is 4 and 1/2 inches in dia. and my model Dictator is a GE when it comes to parts, and has 6 holes about 2 inches apart. Would be interested in a complete front universal that would slip on the splines on the drive-shaft. This would include the yoke, the u-joint, the flange, the casing, and spring. Thanks for anyone who may reply.
  2. Thank you Terry........I finally understand what you are telling me. I have everything loose, from trying to get to the u-joint, but haven't tried to push off the yoke. It may be rusted on, so some penetrating oil may be needed. I will try to 'tap" it loose, but with tender care. Thanks, you were of great help. You may have also seen that "Stude30" has what sounds like the same drive-shaft from a 1930 model that may be an easy solution. We are checking it out.
  3. Thanks Terry for your reply. Not sure what packing nut you are referring to.....my yoke seems to be pressed on or screwed on the drive-shaft. I am planning to take the whole thing to a machine shop that I am told can fix anything.
  4. Finally got my drive shaft off my 1928 Dictator, and found the front u-joint was "toast", and has damaged the yoke. Can anyone tell me if the yoke can be repaired, as the u-joint has opened the holding holes in the yoke. A new u-joint will not be held tightly in place at this point. A new yoke would be the answer, but finding one will probably be an issue. Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated. Any drive train specialist out there???? And does anyone know if the yoke screws onto the drive shaft, or driven on....???? Thanks for any information you may share.
  5. First, I am not a experienced mechanic. But I am brave and try to tackle most projects with hope. I found that my front u-joint has a lot of "play", and would explain the vibration when getting to 30-35 mph. Am asking if anyone has replaced their u-joints and could give me some words of wisdom. It appears that the casing that houses the u-joint and the yoke will need to be removed. Mine is breaking up, and is split almost all the way around. I can see inside and there is a spring visible. I have taken the 6 bolts loose that holds the casing, but don't seem to see how it comes off. Some
  6. I have a 1928 Studebaker Dictator, and the u-joint has a lot of "play" at the transmission. It appears to me that I need to remove the casing that covers the u-joint and yoke, 6 bolts that go through the emergency brake cylinder. After taking the 6 bolts out of the casing, I am at a loss as to how to remove it. You need to know that the casing is spliting and may be in at least two pieces. Does anyone know if the front u-joint can be removed from the front, without removing the drive shaft at the rear axle?? And, does anyone know how much "play" is normal when one turns the drive shaft f
  7. Wow. what nice responses to my wood grain question. Thank you everyone. I am one of those "I can do this" guys, so will probably try my luck at do it yourself.
  8. I am looking for interior door handles for my 1928 Dictator, need three. Also need the window cranks for the third windows, in the back. They are smaller than the ones on the doors. Also need two hood latches that mount from underneath the body. T shaped handle with slight hook. Thanks for any reply.
  9. I am looking for two hood latches for my 1928 Studebaker. They are the front ones, and mount from underneath. Thanks for any response.
  10. My window frames on my 1928 Studebaker are made of metal, but have a wood grain look. Some of the wood grain has worn off and the base color is showing. Has anyone restored this type of metal before, to original wood grain appearance. Thanks for your help
  11. I need three interior door handles for my 1928 Studebaker Dictator, and two window cranks for the very back windows. They are smaller than the ones for the door windows.
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