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Everything posted by JRA

  1. Hi All, I own a 1929 Chrysler, model 75 roadster, here in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Now I need to do the front wheel alignment. I am strugling to find alignment data for this model. I have the original instruction book, but with no information about this. Any help on that? What is applicable for such car: camber, caster, toe-in, toe-out? The only info I got came from Instruction Book: "The distance between the wheels when measured in front at the felloe, approximately nine inches above the floor, and in rear from the same points should be equal or not greater than 1/8 inch." Unfortunately I could not understand this sentence completely. What is the "felloe"? Thanks, JRA
  2. Regarding the parts situation in Brazil, it the other way arround. Until late 50's most of the cars used in Brazil were from American auto makers, so the supply of parts from US to Brazil was very stable, in order to maintain the existing fleet. Late 50's was the moment the Brazilian government start to incentive the construction of cars in Brazil, so the main companies install factories in Brazil, as Willys, VW, DKV. And Ford and Chevrolet started to convert the assembly lines they had in Brazil since the 20's in full plants. The way used by the government to incentive that was dramactly restricting car imports, so american car parts supply became very scarce. Only in the 1990's became easier again to import such parts. Beacuse of that, I believe these old Fords and Chevrolets can be considered very resistent, once they have survived to a very long parts shortage and they are still here in Brazil running... JRA
  3. I can speak for my experience here in Brazil, every car show I go here from south to the north, beach area or country side, two cars are very common, so only resistance could explain their survival: 1928-1929 Ford Model A's and 1950 to 1953 Chevrolet sedan's. It is amazing how these cars have survived in our wet weather and road conditions, because until lates 90's was very dificult to import spare parts to Brazil. My 1928 Chevrolet and 1951 Plymouth seem to be rare in Brazil, when compared with those other cars. And I do not believe it is a matter of few imports back in those days, because Chevrolet assembles cars in Brazil since 1925, and Plymouth and Dodge cars were very popular here in 1950's. JRA 1928 Chevrolet National, touring 1929 Chrysler "75", roadster 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook, 4 dr sedan 1954 Willys-Overland Jeep, CJ3B
  4. Hi All, I bouth this pair of bumper guards for my 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook 4 dr sedan, but I am strugling to know if they are front or rear ones. What is the difference between front a rear guards for the 1951 Plymouth? I saw some pictures on the web and it seems rear ones are smaller in height, is this the case? Thanks JRA
  5. Hi Everyone, I own a 1929 Chrysler, model "75", and its distributor is a Delco-Remy model 659-B, what I believe is the original one. The car owners manual presents such distributor with two contact points. My car is operating very weel, no missing cylinder, but its distributor has only one contact point. When I open the distributor, I can easily see space for a second contact point, as you can see in the picture. I was told each contact point would deal with three cylinders, but as far I can listen well, all six cylinders are operating properly. What is the purpose of such second contact point? If the car needs two, what malfunction occurs when using just one? Thanks JRA 1928 Chevrolet National, touring 1929 Chrysler "75", roadster 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook 1954 Willys Jeep CJ3B
  6. Based on all these comments I did some tests on my car, and I believe vapor lock is the issue. I will install a heat shield on the top of the fuel pump, and I also intend to change the fuel lines for heat insulated ones. I just realized the fuel lines close to exhaust manifold are copper tubes, so this increses the heat in the fuel system. Any recommendations of heat insulated fuel lines? Thanks a lot, JRA
  7. Unfortunately my car does not have a heat shield near the fuel pump. The gasoline in Brazil has from 20% to 25% of Ethanol. About 90% of cars produced or sold in Brazil currently are FlexFuel (gasoline/ethanol mix in any level), so this is really an issue in Brazil for antique cars. I use regular gasoline in my car, but there is premium gasoline available here (95 octanes), do you think it would be a best choice? This premium gasoline is unleaded and with the same proportion of ethanol the regular gasoline. Despite the vapor lock, that may be a reality here our hot weather; the question I still have is: why does the car start imediately just putting the cold wet cloth over the ignition coil? I did this test already, when the car was hot, turned off the engine, and tried to restart 60 seconds later. It does not start, unless I use a new coil or use the cold wet cloth trick. Therefore, I think the vapor lock is not really affecting the issue. Maybe is the distributor condenser...something is overheating the coil and create all this difficulty. Thanks, JRA
  8. The car is in Brazil, so we do not have very cold winters. The coldest period im my town is from may to august, ranging from 46F to 64F. I cannot remember if this problem reduces during winter, but it is true it is more frequent in summer. And I think my fuel pump does not have a heat shield. Does anyone have a picture of this heat shield? This pump is relatevely new, it was replaced about 6 years ago. Best, JRA
  9. New points and rotor. The condenser of the distributor is also new.
  10. I believe the car is slightly more advanced than nit was in the past. In a recent work in the distributor, the mechanic set it up a little more advanced, and I feel the car much more powerful on running up the hills. This behavior is very different than in the past, when the car struggled in 2nd gear shift to move up hill, always requesting 1st gear. Now it goes very well in 2nd gear. The speed and power in 3rd gear seems to be similar as in the past. Could this overheat the coil, creating difficulties to start the engine when hot? I ordered a Optima redtop 6V battery to my car, to see if this helps. Do you have experiences using this battery? JRA
  11. That square metal piece is the turn signal relay.
  12. I think that light blue piece, that could be made of ceramic, is actually the horn relay. It says Delco-Remy on it. The coil was previously on the top of the engine, as in the original setup, but the coil heat problem was worse. When I changed to the fender, only additional 4 inches of wire were added, and the overheating coil problem reduced a lot, but it is still there...All the connections and terminals were properly welded, including battery and grounding cable, to avoid any loss. JRA
  13. Thanks Chris, do you mean a small ceramic box, light blue color, at the right side of the voltage regulator (see picture)? I have owned this car for 13 years and never touched on this part. Is it the ballast resistor? Does 6V system have a ballast resistor? Thanks, JRA
  14. The car is 6V, and the coil and battery are also 6V. At cold start, there is spark, so the engine starts, but I really need to check it when I do the hot start. The fuel is ok at the carburator, once the cold wet cloth trick at the coil allows easy start when engine is hot. Somehow there is something overheating the coil...
  15. The question is what is making the coil overheat. With a very hot engine, I can easily start the car just by changing the coil to a cold one, or wrapping the hot coil to a cold wet cloth. This cold wet cloth quicklly turns down the coil temperature allowing a easy engine start. Once I thought the problem could be on the starter, but I sent it to a complete overhaul recently. I think ithere is something in the system making the coil hot, that I do not understand. I am buyin an Optima RedTop 6V battery to try another option, but I am not sure this will solve the problem. Thanks, Julio
  16. This Bosch 6V coil I am using has 1.4 ohms resistance and it is the current replacement of Bosch Super Blue coil. I have used new 6V coils sold in US (black ones) with even worse results, so I gave up of them and started to use the Bosch ones, taht has better results, but it still overheats. The car wiring seems to be ok, the harness is still the original one. Recently I installed an additional grounding cable, what improved the electrics performace (brighter lights, ...), but maybe there is something wrong and I do not know. Thanks JRA
  17. :mad: I have been suffering to start my 1951 Plymouth when the engine is hot. I have noticed the 6V ignition coil is overheated when I have this starting problem. If I wait some time, it cools down, then car starts. I have already replaced the 6V battery and the coil many times, and no solution was achieved. I changed the original location of the coil, attaching it to the fender, what reduced the overheating, but did not solve the problem completely. Currently I use a 6V Bosch ignition coil. The temperature gauge does not need to be at maximum level to starting failure, in fact it happens at temperatures above the half of the gauge indicator. I believe the engine cooling is fine, recently the water pump was rebuilt and the radiator core changed. I always have a spare coil inside the glove box, so I can replace the coil when the problem happens. Sometimes I just wrap the hot coil with a wet cloth, so the temperature gets down and the engine starts. What could be the source of this problem? What is getting the coil so hot? Thanks, JRA 1928 Chevrolet Touring 1929 Chrysler 75 Roadster 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook 1954 Willys CJ-3B Jeep
  18. Many thanks, NTX5467. I talked to some 1930's Cadillac owners here in Rio de Janeiro, and they are going in a similar recomendation you mentioned: 15W40, actually, after many tests they decided that TEXACO Ursa TDX 15W40 is the most suitable for these cars, considering the lub oils produced in Brazil. Is this oil still sold in US? This is a Diesel Engine Oil, but also recommended by Texaco to gasoline engines. Do you see issues on using a oil for diesel engines on these cars? Regarding Trasfer Case and Differential of 1928 Chevy and 1929 Chrysler, the scpecs mentioned 600W, what I have identified as something around SAE 200, is it correct? In Brazil, the only oil category that could fit close to that is SAE 250. I am afraid SAE90 is to light to those old sealing systems. Could this be a good choice? Other aspect I considered in the nex Oil Change is using an Engine Oil Flush product. Is it good to use it? I've heard this can create problem in the oil pump. What are the thoughts on that? Thanks, JRA
  19. Hi All, I live here in Brazil, where the average temperature of my town is around 68 F (lowest 50F - one moenth a year; highest 95F). I used to run SAE40 mineral engine oil in my old cars: 1928 Chevrolet, 1929 Chrysler 75, 1951 Plymouth, 1954 Willys Jeep. Currently I am using SAE 20W/50 mineral oil on their engines. Is this a good choice considering the weather conditions the cars are exposed here? Recently a got some suggestions to use high mileage oils produced in Brazil (25W/60), but I am not sure if this is a right option. In the 1928 Chevy I am also using SAE 250 mineral oil for gearshift and differential, the other cars use in general SAE140 for differential and SAE90 for gearshift. Are these choices also correct? Thanks, JRA
  20. Thanks for your help 1929Model75. I just bought a Roadster. Find attached the first picture I took of it. For sure a have a long way to achieve your car restauration level, but for sure it will be a nice path to follow. At this moment I want to drain all old fluids and to make an entire verification on brake, fuel, cooling and electrical systems, in order to start the engine. But very soon I will have to replace the old tires, so I intend to use original size white wall, once today it is using 550x18. The car has been dry storaged for the past 10 years, and the last time the engine run was 18 months ago. Any special hint for starting it? Advices on reliable sources of parts are very much appreciated, as technical info too, there fore your offer of help is well accepted. How can I find a Owners or Service Manual for such car? JRA
  21. Thanks for the good info. Other related questions, are the wheels originally only painted, or coud they come chrome/nickel plated? And the outer rim, is it same color as the wheel? If only painted, are there factory color schemes defining wheel paint versus car body paint? Or ist this someway random?? Thanks, JRA
  22. I was informed the original tires for a 1929 Chrysler model 75 would be 600/650x18. Is this info correct? My car has dual sidemounts and it is currently using 550x18 tires, what I believe to be model 65 specifications. These tires seem to be very small to the car. I was only able to find 700x18 and 550x18 tires in the local market, so I am wondering if the 700x18 tires can fit in the fender well for the sidemounts. I believe the 700x18 can offer a better "visual proportion" to the car, but I am not sure if the will fit on theses wells. Any help? Thanks, Julio
  23. Hi Everyone, I would like to know if the master cylinder and wheel cylinders for the 1929 Chrysler 75 are the same for other Chrysler or Mopar models, for the same year or other years. I also have the same question for the water pump. Thanks, JRA
  24. I will take some pictures of this 1936 Chevrolet. The one attached is a scanned one, but you can see another good picture of it in the link below. It was taken at a car show here in Rio two years ago. Chevrolet Master Imperial 1936 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! This 1936 Chevy is entirely original. I believe only two of them were shipped to Brazil in 1936, and this one is the survivor. I have created a thread at VCCA trying to identy the production figures of such car, and I got some info about it, but no numbers. http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/chevytalk/GMhistory/36convsd1.jpg Is it considered a valid Classic ? Best, JRA
  25. This friend of mine is selling his entire collection. Some of the other cars are: 1929 Marmon 78 Phaeton; 1926 big six Studebaker roadster; 1926 Chrysler roadster; 1950 Jowett Jupiter; 1959 VW beetle; this one we are talking in this post; and the one I consider the rarest one: 1936 Chevrolet Master Imperial 4 dr Cabriolet (this fine 4 dr open car is a very special coach work done by Glaser, in Dresden, Germany, focused in the european market). Talking about this other cars, the Studebaker needs a new radiator, but this 1926 model has a very different round/curved core type, does anyone know where he can buy it? Thanks Julio