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Beemon

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Posts posted by Beemon

  1. I've been going a bit stir crazy, my girlfriend wanted to go back to our home away from home after lunch so I started tinkering with some toys I brought with me. 

     

    No one noticed, but the front of my car said "Special". So I went and swapped out this centerpiece I've had in the trunk for a while now. The medallion is a little bent so I'll massage that later, but at least the car trim is complete again.

     

    I might see if I can get a second set of valve cover gaskets and put my Edelbrock valve covers back on the engine. 

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    • Like 8
  2. My ranco valve blew, I'm trying to figure out how I can bypass it. I've lost quite a bit of coolant now. It's all over the floor on the passenger side, too. Looks like the solder joint broke between the tube and the mount because I can wiggle it back and forth. 

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  3. The radiator was done TODAY (7/11). I picked it up and just finished installing, filling, and repairing both my power antenna and light switch. 

     

    Turns out on my light switch, the reason why I had no gauge lights was because the contactor lever on the back side of the rheostat was rusted. I took the whole thing apart again just to be sure. Used my girlfriend's nail filer to clean up all the contacts, and I have lights again. 

     

    I also picked up a couple bolts and tightened down my driver fender. I'm still concerned about the battery tray support, but it's better than it was. 

     

    I am a little concerned about the charging system, it experienced a hiccup today after I buttoned everything up and wasn't charging. After idling at 700 for 10 minutes it started charging again after it stopped for 10 minutes. I hope this was a fluke, but just in case I let the voltage regulator know what's up with the palm of my hand. 

     

    I have not experienced any cooling anomalies, and the panty hose is in the radiator. See yall tomorrow? 

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    • Like 6
  4. The Opel Insginia GSi should be the exact same car as the Buick Regal GS, and you can buy the Buick badging and steering wheel from any GM parts outlet so it would be really easy to "convert" over. I actually prefer the Avenir front end over the GS front end, I feel like its much more aerodynamic. However, this 3.6L V6 engine is really fun and fast. Its not supercar fast, but its faster than it probably should be. I think it may also have a tune stored because the engine auto stop/start has been disabled. 

    • Like 2
  5. Punch it in low out of the starting gate/on ramp and shift into D about 45 mph and get it up to 70, you gotta burn the carbon out - Willie told me once to drive it like I stole it and I still do.

     

    Can you possibly film it? How loud is the pinging? If you can't hear it with the radio on low volume it's not a concern. 

    • Thanks 1
  6. 4 hours ago, EmTee said:

    Have the radiator shop flow test your radiator.  This video is of the radiator from my '38 Century before & after the re-core:

     

    https://www.caparadiator.com/video

     

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    They are going to do all the professional tricks, including flow test. They are going to attempt to check all the boxes before they take it apart but at this point...

     

    57 minutes ago, old-tank said:

    The ONLY thing other than new core that will be effective!  Anything else is just "pissing in the wind"!

    I agree, and this is most likely what is going to happen. 

     

    The core is solid, hopefully they do not recore. I would be very surprised if they had to recore.

    • Like 1
  7. 5 minutes ago, KAD36 said:

    Not to resurrect the dreaded clutch fan on a mid 50s Buick thread, but if you decide to go this route recommend use of the HD clutch, not the standard duty, and a 5 blade 3 inch pitch min fan.  
     

    It works well with the Beemon super duty air filter. 👍

     

    Did a ton of research on this before, and I have used the clutch fan prior to the overheating issue, but the correct fan clutch for a 65 Riviera is a 2747 HD fan clutch. If it's good enough for a 401, I think it should do well for the 322. The part number I used in the past was an HD clutch as well, 271303 from NAPA (2747 part above) and worked great until it didn't (confirmed with heat gun and thermometer). I had an aftermarket 6 blade 2 in pitch fan I think you suggested way back in 2017.

     

    I'm currently digging through some old posts, but on the lookout for the stock standard 5 blade 3 inch pitch fan that has 2 blades offset and held in with 5 rivets. 

    • Like 1
  8. John if it's any consolation, I run 5* BTDC also because I have pinging on hills above that. It's a factory stock engine. At 5 degrees, there is very slight load pinging like you describe when pulling steep hills. It is very slight and I don't think much of it because it's not knocking and rattling. I believe this to just be the nature of the beast. I run high octane 10% ethanol. I ditched my 56 distributor because my advance plate was overrunning and replaced it with a 65 distributor. I didn't and still do not have access to a distributor machine but was able to verify timing to stock as you have.

     

    I run NGK 5858 V-Power plugs with Packard 440 wires.  

     

    On the subject of spark plug wires, did you verify ohms per length of wire? It doesn't sound like you have a wire issue, but more resistance is more work for the ignition system. 

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  9. Well it happened again. I got stopped in traffic on the interstate for a vehicle collision. 72 degrees ambient outside temperature. Temps rose to 220+ and had to ride the throttle. Once we got past the accident, it was about 2 minutes of constant 70 mph to bring temps back to 180.

     

    Yesterday I drained and removed the radiator. It is at the shop today to be soaked, boiled, and shook. If they can't get it to flow then they are going to separate the tanks and rod it out. 

     

    I figure if it can't survive 72 degrees, it's not going to survive 95 in July. 

     

    I also borescoped my water pump just to see, everything is okay in there so no major concerns. I am pretty sure after eliminating the water pump and thermostat, and with the use of the stock fixed blade fan, that the radiator is the culprit. 

     

    LT is 5-10 business days so there isn't any concern about getting to Spokane. I'm going to play with a 5-blade stock cooling fan and clutch off a Riviera when I put it back together. 

     

    Unrelated, I noticed my power steering pump pulley was loose. I loosened the belts and sure enough it rocks a little loose. I zipped the nut off and it came off the shaft with little effort. I don't seem to have the best luck with pumps and pulleys... there was some wear on the bottom edge where I presume it was wobbling back and forth. I put it back on after knocking down some edges with a file. It looks like it sits flush, so not sure how it came loose. I might attempt to replace the lock nut.

     

    Both belts are stretched and were already at the end of the adjustment so I'll be replacing both. 

     

    I think once it's all back together it will be pretty solid. On my to do list is to fix my dash lights, remove my tach and auxiliary gauges, oil change, antenna, and secure the rest of the sheet metal. I'd like to replace my hose clamps but we'll see. 

    • Like 2
  10. Rad hose is good. My heater hose lines used to be red and I just changed them out for black hose. I'll have to see if I can get them soon enough. I do have factory "Buick" worm gear style hose clamps for the heater but have not heard or seen anything about them. 

     

    What about the vent hose for the blower motor? 

     

    On the subject of heater hose routing as well, the return is fashioned with hooks on the inner fender, but how is the heater core inlet laid out? The shop manual makes me believe it is just hanging there, but I don't have confirmation. There is a retaining loop on the fender that I don't think is factory on my Buick. 

    • Like 1
  11. So I've been digging through my shop manual and so far I have found only the steel spring clamps that were used on vacuum and fuel lines. They have two tangs and wrap around once.

     

    What is correct for heater hose and radiator hose, and does anyone have evidence or pictures? 

     

    I did a quick search but couldn't find a thread that covers this in the detail I'm looking for. 

  12. Yep, do not buy these. They lock open when you shut the car off. I replaced it with a 180 and drilled a 1/16 hole oriented towards the front. Found more rust chunks also. I'm going to try and get a vacuum flush. The pantyhose are getting purchased tonight lol

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    I haven't done it yet but I'm also going to re-verify timing and dwell just to see if anything has changed. 

     

    Generator is charging about 13.8 to 14.1, so just about perfect, but it did spike at highway speed to about 14.7. It seems to be operating nominally, is it normal to see 14.7 or should I get at the voltage regulator? 

    • Like 3
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