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Tim Romans

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Everything posted by Tim Romans

  1. I'm pulling the timing chain cover on my '41 to inspect the chain and sprocket, not something I've done before on these straight 8s. Will I need to remove the crank pulley? If I remove the pulley should I mark the position with chalk or something? Thank you very much! Tim Romans
  2. Would anyone happen to have the vacuum advance part # for a '41, or better yet, a lead to a replacement rebuildable or otherwise? Evilbay just isn't doing it for me.. Cheers! Tim
  3. Hey, happy to report that after a year and a half, I think the performance problem I was having with the '41 missing at high RPMs is solved. I pulled out the distributor and the gear at the bottom was waaay loose and there was play in the bottom bushing, plus the bushing pin was nowhere to be found. So, sent it off and got it rebuilt and she's ready to go back on. Should I grease the gear before putting it back and if so, what type of grease? I marked where the rotor was pointing on the block and took extensive photos so that should be good prep. I know if it doesn't go in, not to force it. H
  4. Embarking on a brand new adventure, water pump replacement! She decided to puke a good amount of coolant in the driveway and later in the garage when I pulled her in. Nice and moist at the front/underneath of the block. Shook her back and forth and nice drips came out of the bottom of the pump. No warning, it just up and died and at least had the discretion to do so at home. So, new water pump is on the way. I'm thinking the radiator/radiator shroud will have to come off. Any other tips, tricks, traps to be aware of? I'm starting to strategize before I pull the old one off. Thanks again! Tim R
  5. Thanks Mark, according to the receipts, the previous owner took her in and had a new muffler installed in February 2007. He later took her back to the same place in April 2007 and had "2 flat high heat gaskets" installed, new gaskets replaced at the manifolds, and was charged labor to repair & replace "3-piece exhaust pipe." That said, I am hearing a noise, kind of like an imperfect seal noise (like you would hear if you placed a drivers license over 3/4 of a shop-vac nozzle) from the vicinity of the exhaust region where it bolts together underneath the manifold. I sprayed it with WD-40
  6. P.S. Threatening her with a Chevy Crate motor seems to have no effect either... Tim
  7. Stumped, stumped, stumped is the word of the day. I pulled the vacuum line between the carb and the advance today. I ran water through it and used the air compressor to blow air through it. There were no leaks or real restrictions that I could observe, but I realize this probably is not as good as testing it with a vacuum pump through the line. We also tested the advance unit with the line off last week and it held vacuum very well and pulled the plates. I went through the pile of receipts I got with the car. Turns out the dude that had it swapped out the distributor and advance for
  8. Update to the update: Dave and I had another great day of troubleshooting and root beer chugging last weekend! Anyway, we did a few more diagnostics using a fuel pump emulator and the bottom line was that the mixture screws on both carbs were not adjusted properly. With some tuning, the miss at idle disappeared. (Thanks again Dave!) So, we went for a test drive and still having the performance issue under load. She runs great until that angle of throttle where you shift into the next gear and she still stumbles and falls on her face. (at the 10 mph mark, 20 mph mark, and she won't go over 30 m
  9. Update Report: In spite of him saying not to do so, I want to say it was awesome of Dave to show up and help out today. I am glad to know you now Dave and I appreciated your time and learning from you as well as chatting about car stuff. We spent about 4-5 hours out in the driveway and the weather wasn't too bad so it was a good day to work on the car. We checked and reset the dwell of the points, the gap of the points, the timing, the dizzy itself, the vacuum advance, the plugs, and Dave did a compression test. All cylinders checked out at 100 lbs compression with one cylinder checking in at
  10. Raining cats and dogs here in the D.C. area. Started her in the garage tonight and sprayed WD-40 around the manifold gaskets and base of the carbs. Didn't seem to affect anything I tried covering half of the rear carb with the choke on the front while revving her up and she just flat out died. Did that a couple of times with the same result. Couple of other things to note. In addition to the intermittent backfire "pops" through the exhaust, I noticed if you just let her idle for a bit without revving her her and there and then get on the gas hard, she tries to stall and then I get a BIG backf
  11. All right, I've added a compression test kit to my shopping list. I may try to play around with the vacuum gauge this weekend. For reference, where do you all typically hook the gauge up? Not many options for hook up on the intake manifold. I think I used the vacuum line to the wiper motor last time. When I tried setting the timing I did disconnect the vac advance and plugged the end leading to the advance by wrapping electrical tape around it. I don't think the other gentleman did though. He used the timing light and mark on the flywheel. Although he mentioned that the timing seemed right
  12. Hey guys, So, I've been trying to solve a long standing performance issue on my '41. As many of you may know, she's an SSE with the stock 248 and dual carbs. She sat off and on from 10-12 as I rebuilt the brakes and chased an annoying electrical problem that ended in the starter solenoid relay being bad. Up to the summer of '11 during test drives, I had no performance problems from her. Last summer, I had the starter completely gone through and a new solenoid relay put on her. I started trying to drive her again and at certain angles of throttle, she would stall out. The stalls take pl
  13. Thanks guys, got her started back up again last night and the fuel leaks are gone. Jon, I avoided the use of thread sealer and teflon tape. I did use a smidge of motor oil around the threads which made them easier to start and grab on to the fittings a little better. She started at about 1 1/2 revolutions of the starter! She idled well, a little fast I beleive, but started to backfire, small "pop...pop" noises every so often out of the exhaust. I may have to retime het I believe? Last time I set the timing was when I had crappy carbuetors. Going to take her for a very brief run around the blo
  14. Sweet sound of a Buick Straight 8! I cranked her under full choke a couple of times at 10 second intervals or so and then primed both carbs with 1/4 cup of gas. Took me a couple of tries, but I got her to fire and run. Then, I heard a noise like something spraying under pressure. Carbs were good and not coming from there so I opened the hood on the other side and saw the fuel pump squirting gas and shut her off. I disconnected the battery for the night after letting the vapor dissipate. Not sure where it's coming from, but I'll probably have the wife start her tomorrow while I hold the flashl
  15. Heh, heh, that put a smile on my face! Talk about in the nick of time! I just emptied a ketchup bottle. I'll get to cleaning it. Dumb question and I know I could probably check the shop manual, but where are the bowl vents on the Carter WCD? Just to also add, I put the battery on charge when I first posted this (around 8 hrs ago) and it's at 75% charged which means it was waaay low. Probably didn't help me much to have a low battery. Even with that low of a charge and a little bit of gas she tried to come back to life. Hope that's a good sign. I have the fire extinguisher standing by just i
  16. So I have two rebuilt carbs back on my '41 in addition to a new fuel pump. I drained out some gas that was about a year old and blew out the lines for good measure. I put about 3 tsp worth of gas (about 1 tsp) per try down in the primary carb. She tries to catch and fire so I'm almost there. I have about 1/4 tank of fresh new gas in her. Aside from pumping the gas pedal all day (which doesn't seem to work BTW) could someone advise on the best way to get her started again? Many thanks as always! Tim
  17. Thanks Mike! Put everything back on last night and hope to have her on the road by the weekend! Tim
  18. When putting the rear carb back on my '41 Special, I pulled the old, nylon "firm" gasket off and noticed underneath that someone had put a thin gasket there as well. Per the shop manual, it states that the "nylon, "firm" gasket goes between the valve damper and the manifold. A thin gasket goes between the valve damper and the carburetor." There is no mention of a thin gasket between the nylon gasket and the manifold. Before the rebuild she was leaking profusely from that area at the base, likely due to the fact that the gaskets were old, but if memory serves, gasket on gasket contact is gener
  19. Thanks Den for looking! I guess I can go ahead and try to start her up. If anything is out of whack, I'm sure I'll find out one way or another:D Cheers! Tim BCA #44777
  20. Hi, It's a 248 dual carb setup. Many thanks Den41! Cheers! Tim BCA#44777
  21. Jenz, Thank you again for taking the time to try and help. I really like the job you did on your linkage! I'll definitely try the Team Buick forum. Cheers! Tim
  22. I snapped some more photos of both the front and rear carbs and the linkage. According to the diagrams in the shop manual, the linkage appears OEM. I also did another inspect with the shop manual and according to the diagrams, the front carb doesn't seem to be missing anything. Can anyone else with the dual-carb assembly verify? When I moved the accelerator assembly, it moved the throttle, but the fast idle did not fully engage and the choke did not move. I'm assuming that means I need to do some adjustments there and it would not be actuated by this largish spring. Judging by the size and ten
  23. I just checked near the linkage near the Acc pedal. Everything seems in order there and the spring is on near the steering column. Still can't figure out where this darn thing goes...
  24. Hey gents, It's been awhile and yes, I know I work slow. I have my front carb all rebuilt and ready to go. When I took photos of where everything went, I must not have taken a photo of where this spring goes. If memory serves, one end goes in the hole right below my finger. Can't remember where to hook the other end though (photos attached of the spring.) Thanks again for all your help and support! Tim Romans
  25. Fellas, Couple of questions as I tear into things. First, the kit I bought from Bob's doesn't seem to have any gaskets for the metering rod jets (it has small ring shaped gaskets, butthey seem to be larger than the old gaskets I pulled from the bottom of the jets.) Should I order new jets or do I somehow need to find gaskets for them? Second, the new plunger for the accel pump seems to be longer than the old plunger I pulled out. Is this a problem? Third, I can't seem to remove the screws from the throttle plates at the base of the carb or remove the linkage and am afraid I'll st
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