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Vintage_barry

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Everything posted by Vintage_barry

  1. When I removed my drivers power seat I found a wire and connector that wasn’t connected and no other connector that it was detached from. Any idea what’s its purpose?
  2. Wow Jason, yeah that’s it. The welds looked to good to be a b.s. repair. It just goes to show how well these cars were built. Thanks for the information, Barry
  3. While in the process of changing my coil springs, I was going to replace my ball joints as well. The Upper ball joints had two small welds each, front and back, about 1/4” long. Would this have been done in the factory or someone’s later repair for a sloppy fitting? Thanks for any input, Barry
  4. Your springs might be ready for replacement also. There are spacers that will lift that spring by keeping that coil from compressing but then your defeating the job of the coil spring. My passenger side is slightly lower and the ride is to hard even with new shocks. New coil springs should be the cure. I talked to a technician from Moog and JEGS about springs and they both convinced me the constant rate springs were just fine unless I was going to drive the car like I had stolen it in the curves. By the way, Amazon had the best prices with the free shipping.
  5. Thanks Ed. I just contacted Moog and they no longer produce the CC503. I think I’ll just settle for the standard “Constant Rate” spring but I’ll give Coil Spring Specialties a call. I was surprised that Moog said that more people purchased the variable rate spring but they decided to stop production.
  6. I’m due for a new set of coil springs and my question is do I go for the “variable” heavy duty springs (more in line with factory GS) or the “constant” average springs? I’m looking for comfort of course but how much stiffer are the heavy duty? Moog 5030 in the front (w/ac)-purchased. Moog 5245 “constant” rear or Moog CC503 “variable” heavy duty are the two choices in question. Does anyone have experience with the 2 ride options and advice? Thanks, Barry
  7. I just checked with a dealer in PA. that does the Aurora conversion for my 66 Riviera and was quoted $575.00. Bluetooth, USB and cellphone ready. Turn around time is currently 16 weeks. Remove the knobs, pack well, add a $200.00 deposit check and ship it. If you have the AM/FM slide bar selector, that will still work correctly. If you have an AM you will have to turn it off and on to achieve FM. I currently have the AM/FM stereo so I’m going to look for a non working AM/FM radio and convert it.
  8. My console lock button is loose and just keeps on spinning(with key)but will not depress and release. Is there any way I can open the console and repair the lock? Thanks for any help, Barry
  9. My 66 Riviera, non-a/c, is in need of a new power steering belt. I don’t see them listed or even a part number on the net. I’m getting ready to just go down to NAPA and have them measure the old belt but I thought I ask you guys first about part numbers and lessons learned. Thanks in advance for any input. Barry
  10. Thanks for the info. Barry
  11. Anyone have a good source for a replacement a/c compressor? or a rebuild for an original unit?
  12. Thanks Jason. I was worried about opening a can of worms. I’ll have a pro remove the trim and reseal the rear glass. Thanks again, Barry
  13. The vent panel behind the rear window has some pitting between the panel and glass that needs to be addressed. I know this is a fairly common problem so before I start tearing things apart I thought I’d seek some experience. Anyone have some words of wisdom on disassemble, drain lines, vent and reassembling? Thanks for any input. Barry
  14. Thanks Jason. I came across a 3.07 posi axle assembly stamped “PM” from a 1966 Riviera.
  15. Here’s another weight question. Any idea of the approximate weight of a 1966 Electra rear end assembly minus brake drums? Thanks for any help, Barry
  16. Did the 1965 Buick Skylark 225 V6 engine come from the factory painted red? I thought all pre 1966 Buick engines were green. What’s been your experiences? Barry
  17. Thanks for the info. I actually found my parts at Desert Valley Auto. Very well run savage yard.
  18. Im looking the 2 pieces and the long bolt for an alternator 1964-1975 300,340,350 motors Also the radiator fan and pulley for the 300. I’m not sure if the 215, 340 or 350’s will fit but if you think they will, we’ll investigate. Thanks for any help, Barry
  19. That’s a piece of art. You do great work. I’m going to put the 215 into a 1959 MGA and won’t have the engine compartment space for a turbo. Thanks for the consideration, Barry
  20. I’ve come across a couple of Carter 9400’s and a Carter 9410. Both were 400 CFM. When I mentioned modern I was thinking as still in production, new. Holley has the Classic 390 CFM but it’s a little pricey. Regarding the Pontiac with the Olds turbo jetfire, there would be double takes, head scratchers and a few grins. Regards, Barry
  21. What was the 215’s original carburetor and cfm’s. What would be a modern replacement? Thanks for any help, Barry
  22. Sean, It did turn out to be a JN coded engine. The code was under some grime. I’m planning to build a MGA with a T-5 transmission and the 215 engine with a limited slip differential. MG has a factory history with the Buick/Rover 215. Thanks to everyone for all the great info, Barry
  23. Sean, Thanks. The seller found the the serial number so the code stamp will be extremely easy. Thanks again, Barry
  24. I’m possibly buy a 1963 Skylark 215 engine and I want to make sure that it’s a JN coded engine. I don’t have the motor in front of me so I need to tell the seller over the phone where to look. It has a 4 barrel manifold, no carburetor. The engine is stamped 3J1548264, which means it’s a 1963 engine made in Michigan but where is the “JN” stamp on the block? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for any help, Barry
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