ChazA

Same here, no limit on Hagerty. Additionally, I had a claim years ago and got the exact agreed value for the loss.

Helping my friend remove the front/rear driveshaft (propeller) from his '57. He followed the instructions in shop manual, however on the step on remove the complete assembly rearward from the frame, it's getting stuck on the triangular piece on the shaft. Any suggestions/tips on removing? Thanks!

Helping my friend remove the front/rear driveshaft (propeller) from his '57. He followed the instructions in shop manual, however on the step on removethe complete assembly rearward from the frame, it's getting stuck on the triangular piece on the shaft. Any suggestions/tips on removing? Thanks!

Brought my '66 Caddy vert to shop today to get the new top installed. (This question should apply cars over many years). I have a new rear tack strip, the one secured with 14 bolts or so. The old one had a thick 2" butyl strip behind it against the body. I put some new butyl on there before I loosely snug the new tack strip with the 14 new bolts. Installer says he doesn't usually see the butyl behind the tack strip, as water will go down the channel to the end and then exit car. The Body manual mentions nothing about adding butyl when installing new top, just how to tighten the 14 bolts, agreeing with what the installer has seen. Can anyone confirm there is no butyl from factory (on GM or other cars)? Does anyone install the strip with butyl behind it anyway? Pros/Cons? Maybe the factory decided to do after the body manual written? Suggestions? Need to answer by tomorrow as the installer is gluing new tack strips on other parts of the vert frame today. Thanks! Chuck

Sorry to hear and see that . Please let us know if you hear anything on root cause, as it may help others (preventing).

Makes sense as when I was in my 20s, didn't care really about original cars at all, and was modifying 70s car with big tires/air shocks, etc.. Maybe in 15 years or so we'll see a lot more of these cars "80's/90's Japanese cars or newer Camaros and Mustangs" at AACA meets that are original. I suspect there will be a lot more Japanese (original) cars for a while since the 80/90s US cars may not be as collectible, as it took a while IMHO for US manufactures to "catch up" in those years with some of the cool foreign cars (of course there are exceptions). Now that there are a ton of current US "muscle" cars, including Chrysler now, I would think in 30 years or so there may be more Fords/Chevys/Chryslers at AACA shows and more of a balance, but the next 15-20 I don't think as much. I have almost 20 yrs left before retiring, so what do I know I do enjoy seeing original cars now, and all makes, so I think we'll be OK. I recall seeing an old original Corolla at one of the meets that I thought was neat as we had one. My guess is those that are 80-90 yrs old, and maybe modified original cars in the 50s (in their 20s) have seen this pattern before I also predict some of the costs will go way down with the availability of 3D printing. Chuck

Agree. Anytime I've had a car transported, battery always disconnected. Good point above on bearing/brake possibility too based on location.

Wow... http://wkrn.com/2016/02/15/trailer-fire-closes-i-65-in-williamson-county/ Hard to tell in picture, but if in fact the trailer tires, I wonder if they had tire pressure monitoring system on the trailer, like http://tsttruck.com/or others?

Sure, found info right away with Bing...believe this is the guy: "-George's was set up in the chocolate field spaces C3A 42-43 at Hershey last month (2011). I have one of their latest flyers and email is listed as.. " koolpackrat@aol.com FYI on that Ford forum they found one a thisoldtrunk.com HTH Chuck

Try http://www.speedtest.net/ Yes, good idea to contact cable company to see if any issues as they can run diags remotely, or send a tech if needed. If Time Warner as I see you are upstate NY, connecting to the Time Warner Wireless router is a good test, vs your own (Let the tech walk you through steps).

Enjoyed the show! Nice

FYI from CLC forums: Lots of 60s and some early 70s parts, doors, front clips, hoods and massive bumpers. http://bigbarkozspeedshop.com/forsale/smarts-auto-wrecking-closing-bodies/ http://bigbarkozspeedshop.com/forsale/smarts-auto-wrecking-closing-front-clips/ http://bigbarkozspeedshop.com/forsale/smarts-auto-wrecking-closing-parts/

Not an early riser here, so the last 4 years I have gone back to my car (at the RV lot by the rides) after the judges breakfast and drive onto field around 9 am or so. I have always had enough time. Really depends on how far away your car is from the Giant Center, but I would say you have about hour or so in between. ​Chuck

Yes, the complete VIN is on the top of the frame by the battery The engine block number is on drivers side rear of block on top. Joe is incorrect as the VIN will start with E6 on the frame for an Eldorado, followed by 6 build sequence numbers and you should see the entire VIN on the frame. I have 6 of these cars and feel free to message me if you would like assistance on phone.

Love my Rotary. Have had four years http://www.rotarylift.com/LIGHTDUTY/FOURPOST/ Used in most shops-sister co. Chaz

Thanks for the additional info Bill! I sold 3 of the 4 above, oddly all the curb rash ones sold and the nice one still available. I also have another set of 4 1955 in nice condition, no curb rash, ( 5 total) if anyone interested. Thanks!

Driver quality set of rare Eldorado (optional on other models) - Kelsey Hayes wheels listed on eBay (listed individually). 3 of 4 have curb rash on edge, one is nicer. AFAIK, requires a spacer & longer studs for 1957-58 Caddy front wheels. Buy individually, or feel free to message me and make a reasonable offer on all 4 and I will end listing. Can deliver to Fall Hershey AACA '14 too. (Upstate NY here if interested in pickup) http://www.ebay.com/itm/271592011029?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/271591996791?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/271592014414?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/271592020021?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Got it. Thanks for the explanation Good point too...and the hobby may turn into you being the "go to" person for pre '50 emblems, etc.. Thanks!

All for father/son hobbies, but wouldn't you feel bad if someone needed a emblem, that you were hoarding/collecting, to finish a restoration? ...or are these all reproduced and it's a moot point. Just curious as I haven't heard of this type of collecting as all of my cars are 60s. Thanks!

Added some pics and knocked down price. Took a closer look and noticed some moulding on some.

To clarify, largest AACA show, but not largest show in the hobby. Here's one for example with over 8000 cars: http://www.rightcoastcars.com/syracuse-nationals.php Of course the apple and oranges crowd will say not as many vendors, trophy's etc...for others, but there are other large shows out there Although I don't see any other region bidding on an AACA National Fall Meet anytime soon (I don't even know anyone can as I believe Hershey has the monopoly on it), I would highly suggest you give it a try.

Earl, yes I agree. Almost bailed myself a few yrs ago for my first one. Got rude treatment when I called back then too, so maybe the same guy...I won't mention any names. However, all the other people that I have met after attending have been nice and helpful and probably just one bad apple. I don't think the excuse that I've heard for the one person....they are volunteers, extremely busy, etc...should warrant being rude and not helpful. Oh, and not the largest show anymore, but of course it's probably one of the most popular

Can bring to Hershey. $300 for hood $200 for each fender or make an offer for all. All in OK shape and have some surface rust. The fenders have some rippling on side...probably old repair. A couple of bends in corners, but they should be able to be straightened. http://forums.aaca.org/members/chaza/albums/41-fenders-hood/ More Pics available if interested. I believe these came off of a Fleetwood as they have the long rectangular hole, but should fit others too.

I'm not sure where the details for camping are located, as I had the same questions my first time a few years ago. Only way I found out details was forum Been dry camping the last two years across from flea market and I would doubt they would run out of space. I'll let someone else comment if that ever happened. You probably need to make reservations at Highmeadow a year in advance. I like the dry camping better as it's closer and you're really only in it at night. Saturday night if you are attending award banquet, or maybe long ride. Last two yrs camping there were only 10-20 left on Sat night Planning on arriving Tuesday also with 40' RV w/ 20' trailer. Watch for the entrance signs for RVs.

Ted, thanks for your feedback and for attending. After decades at the old location in Liverpool, this was the first time in the new location-Clay and unfortunately we did run out of room in some of our new designated rows, especially our classes 5 and 6. We'll be sure to take your feedback when planning next year. We had a huge turnout and the weather was great! Hopefully, even with the parking glitches, all had a good time!