Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dstaton

  1. I am moving to the sticks and need a 4 wheel drive vehicle. I hope someone will continue my 1962 Starfire project to its completion. It has a special order VIN, and all options except cruise, electronic eye, and power vent. A/C convertible... I haven't tried to recharge the A/C yet. Dashpots seem to be working. The car is fun to drive. I have been taking it to work for a few months now, dependably. I installed a new stereo, a Pioneer, just because, under the seat: AM/FM, iPod, USB, CD, remote control. Two 4" Pioneer speakers replace the 6x9 in the dash, two 3 way Jenson 6 1/4" speakers in the doors, and one 6 1/4" in the back seat. The body metal needs rust repair all around, most notably in the rear passenger quarter panel. Other spots are bubbling. If you want to restore, I have located a rust-free Starfire donor body in CA for $1500. Otherwise, I was bid $2500 for fabrication repairs if I removed and replaced the trim myself. The top operates as it should, but the fabric is gone. I recommend a light blue replacement to make a great and correct combination with the Wedgwood blue paint. To the good: • Motor runs strong, no smoke • Original 4GC Rochester newly rebuilt • Original, serviceable blue upholstery, front and back • Gas tank restored • All chrome and aluminum panels are present and in good condition • New fuel line installed, tank to carburetor • Mallory fuel pump • Power steering works excellently • Brake system completely restored (power booster excluded, but working) • New shocks, all around • New wheel bearings • New alternator (one-wire) • Rebuilt original starter • NOS wiring harness • Rebuilt power top motor • Convertible top frame works as it should • New power antennae • Courtesy lights work • Electric windows aligned and functioning • New tuxedo 80/20 correct carpet • Heater and A/C switches rebuilt • All A/C parts correct and in place: Dished P/S pulley, 5 blade fan, 3 core radiator, 3 groove harmonic balancer, etc. • Solid frame, no breaks or repairs, surface rust • New NOS exhaust system, with dual mufflers and resonators • Electrical components sorted out: dash lights, heater, A/C, etc. • All vacuum hoses replaced and functioning • COPO custom order (!) • Free and clear title Needs: • Top fabric • A/C charged • Bodywork and paint • Suspension work Dozens of duplicate parts will be included with the sale: second convertible top bow, chrome trim, fans, fuel pumps, light relay, power seat motor, wedgewood blue interior panels, kick panels, heater resistor, digital shop manuals, extra NOS wiring harnesses, more... Call 520 510 6093 with questions. Car is in Tucson, AZ 85711 Asking $6000. Doug
  2. SHovel55, Do you have the engine compartment side A/C distributor box with 3 dash pots and the blower? Doug
  3. The switch is faulty. There is one on eBay. I think I'll fix mine instead... Thanks for the help folks! Doug
  4. Thanks, Glenn, I rebuilt the vacuum, noted the proper operation of the mechanical electrical, but neglected to freshen those points... I'll give that a try. Doug
  5. Starfire Mafia, Ok, so I replaced the HVAC and dash today, having rebuilt both the A/C switch and the heater switch, trusting that with good wiring and good switches the system would work. Instead, the A/C switch seems to be working perfectly (although without a charge, I wouldn't know). The first two buttons, off, and open vent, work, and the next two drive air through the kick panel exchanger (evaporator) and blow detritus around on my new carpet. But the heat switch disappointments. The low/high switch does nothing. The voltmeter shows 12.25 when the heater button switch is off. It reads 12.20 when any of the 3 other buttons are depressed. The Direct, Indirect, and Defrost each correctly (and delightfully) rotate the deflector bobbins as they should. The harness is correct and has integrity. The connections are correct. I think I have a couple dashpot failures in the A/C module (popping, failure noises when vacuum is applied...), but I know the heater manifold ones are good. When I started pulling wires from the heater distributor, assuming a shorted component, nothing changed on the voltmeter. But the resistor connections (Black Blue Green, see photo) were noticeably hot to the touch, though not so much as to burn the fingers, when I pulled wires one by one to check for shorts. Also, I heard a very slight tick from the blower motor when the heater was calling, but no blowing... Big blow when the A/C was calling. How can the blower work for the A/C switch and not the heater switch? Could bad electrical components on the heater distributor short the entire system, stopping the blower? Why does the heater switch, which I know works vacuum-wise, not blow? Cruisin anyway, Doug
  6. Thank you, Paul. I drove her to work last week. Such fun!
  7. Starfire Mafia, Are these two connections merely extra? I've sussed all the other connections, including A/C, thanks to StarfireElvis' information. Length-wise, they seem to fall inside the cockpit near the foramen of the firewall. Thanks if anyone remembers what, Doug
  8. Thanks, Joe. Late last night i found this link. It looks familiar enough to be of use. Must more detail than the shop manual. It points out that the fender has to be loosened to access the door hinge, and that there are "story sticks" for mounting the soft top, and which bolts shift the angle of the quarter windows and their guides, etc. Just what I needed. http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/FisherBody/1966/66FisherManual.pdf Best wishes, Doug
  9. Paul, Thanks for the encouragement and patience. I am most pleased to say I know what you know – this is a seriously fun car to drive – and worth the effort! By the way, late last night I found the 1966 Fisher Manual online here: http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/FisherBody/1966/66FisherManual.pdf It has the essential information I needed about loosening the fender to get to the hinges and a detailed frame maintenance guide as well as the vinyl top replacement instructions. Woo, woo! Thanks, Doug
  10. Hello All, Any 1962 or thereabouts GM Full Body Fisher Manuals out there? Doug
  11. Hello Folks, Find attached some pix of my project, finally motoring of her own volition. I am trying to tune the body alignments before replacing the convertible top (which will be light blue). I know I need to adjust the angle of the quarter windows somehow, and that the Fisher manual is the ticket for information, but having looked extensively for the Fisher manual for GM Full bodies I can say with confidence they seem to go extinct around 1958, reappearing in 1966. Has some enterprising youth cornered the market on these rare tomes? Did Fisher stop to cut bait? Is the trick easy enough to repeat here instead? I need to adjust door hinges and window spacings and alignments. Best wishes for the New Year! Doug
  12. Hello Folks, I was able to locate a replacement harness for my 62, but it is of course wired for a generator. Can you advise me per the diagram where exactly to connect my wires for the conversion to alternator? I read elsewhere to connect the old generator wires together and tape them off. Done. And I have wired the new alternator as shown. But what do I do with the original red and green wires from the fuse block? Do they need to connect to the voltage regulator, tied into the new red and green from the alternator? Taped off? The red from fuse block already has an eyelet that fits the horn relay post. Am I missing a jumper wire back to the voltage regulator? Thanks! Doug
  13. Any idea how my alternator could cause the bulb to light? When I pull it out of the circuit the short goes away, and when I add the alternator it lights the bulb. Alternator tests fine after a complete rebuild. I took it to be tested twice...
  14. Dave, I gave Ernest Schrieter your best regards. Thanks for the advice, Doug
  15. Nice try, StarfireElvis, But as you can see, my Starfire originally came with two (!) horn relays, and for parallel structure, two (!) voltage regulators, while your car is merely relatively clean, correct, and amazing. What I need to see is the placement of the warning light relay that exists only on late 1962 A/C equipped cars (perhaps on 1963's..?) with an alternator. I think I have sussed from the redundant wiring harness pictured above that it should be near the origin of the harness engine bay entry point near the voltage regulator and the horn relay. I sure hope one day I can see your 62 in person. It looks perfect! Thanks, Doug
  16. Paul, You're awesome! Thanks for the excellent information. I wondered what that extra relay in the glove box was for. It never appeared on any chart or litany till now. These pictures show my newly discovered relay, which I hope works because there is only one on eBay for $150... The harness in photos is a junkyard extra for troubleshooting and modeling. My actual harness is absent the connector but I now know what those taped wires are for under my hood. Does anyone have a picture of the correct placement of this relay under the hood? It seems like it ought to be hear the voltage regulator, but I can't spot it in any 1962 Starfire photos from my archive. Doug
  17. Thanks, Paul! Do you agree that checking for voltage between the Neg battery post and the ground strap with the alternator Batt terminal connected to the horn relay should not read 12 volts? The photo is from the test before i attached the alternator wire, reading the voltage from the starter, which I read elsewhere should read some mini number like .05. But after attaching the alternator it goes to 12v... I would love to see the correct wiring from the Service Guide. Doug
  18. Hello Folks, To trouble shoot a short in my dash wiring I have removed all connections at the horn relay – the positive battery lead, the starter, the Holley fuel pump – and reading the voltmeter at the 20v setting across the negative battery post and the grounding frame strap. The starter reads .02v. Add the pump, .05. Everything is clean to that point. But when I attach the alternator to the horn relay, it reads full voltage equivalent to the battery charge. The alternator is rebuilt, double bench tested and wired per Rocketraider's advice in other posts on replacing a generator with an S10 (see attached). Starfire Elvis shared the A/C Dealer conversion papers, but it shows a generator installation. I have been told that the A/C versions of the 62 were equipped with an alternator but it seems that particular wiring changes information is not extant anywhere. I have found a wiring diagram for the 1963 full body Olds with alternator, but it is substantially different from the 62 wiring, with a light relay and only three wires on the voltage regulator and a different Gen light circuit (see attached). Does a correct wiring diagram for the 62 Starfire with A/C exist? Does anyone know what changes should be made specifically different from the 62 Shop Manual version or from the attached 63 full body Version? Dead in the water, Doug
  19. Whoa, this is algebra. Looks like I'm digging in the right hole. [TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #F5F5F5]That sounds very feasible.. Of course a lot of variables come into play on top of that measurement. Aside from temp (which you have and will assume the block was at ambient) is battery voltage at the starter during cranking, cranking RPM (a stiff tight motor will slow the starter, which in turn will draw more amps) etc You can back peddle all your numbers using basic ohms law. Measure the DC resistance of the starter, measure the resistance of the soleniod and add them together (it's in parallel so 1/starter + 1/soleniod = 1/total), devide that number into your cranking voltage at the starter and you now have the amps you're drawing.. You need a good meter though as the ohms will be 0.something ohms. ie, .05 on starter, .8 on the soleniod = (1/.05) + (1/.8) or (20)+(1.25)=1/21.25= .047ohms. If there is 12 volts at the starter during cranking, 255 amps are being used. If only 9 volts during cranking, only 191 amps are being used. Next, see how much voltage is at the battery during cranking, divide the difference by your ohms and you now know how many amps is being lost in the cables and connections. (for those interested, multiply your volts times your amps to get watts, ie the starter above would use over 3000W at 12V and only 1700 at 9V, that's 1/2 the cranking power with a 3V drop) [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] My apologies. My dad always said you messed up if you ever leave nobody with anything to say.
  20. Hello Folks, My 1962 Starfire is nearing mechanical solvency. Last necessity is the electric. As some of you may remember, I received the car an electrical mess. It had both a 4 wire and a 3 wire voltage regulators, two horn relays, redundant wiring and half completed corrections or repairs. Generally, I have been able to remove added circuits and found the original wiring present and serviceable. I was able to start the car some time ago, and turned my attention to the dash lighting, vacuum assists, blower. Symptoms included very dim dash lights, visible only in complete darkness, a horn button that drives only one tone and tentatively, turn signals that flash the bulb but not the dash on one side but flash the other side just fine, and a Hot light but no Gen on Acc position. I replaced crumbling sockets in the dash panel, replaced bulbs and checked for grounding at their sockets, restored the signal switch, restored and eventually replaced the light switch. The ignition switch tests functional. Finally, I noticed the DelcoRemy S10 was dead and had it rebuilt. And I replaced the voltage regulator. The starter and solenoid are new-rebuilt. Finally, (yeah I now know I have worked last things first) after checking for shorts, I read a full 11.78v between the ground strap and the negative terminal of the battery. After pulling all the fuses and reading a persistent full leak, I pulled everything off the horn relay except the starter lead and the battery feed. The test meter still reads .05. Before I continue, I would love some advice on the significance of this read, and any other guidance you can offer. Do I have the right sequence of checks now? Battery to horn relay to fuse panel to load, right? Just when I start to feel like I am beginning to understand the electric system – the mystery dance... Any advice or commiseration would be excellent. Thanks, Doug
  21. Hello Folks, My heater valve has a broken nipple for the vacuum line. A replacement is rare, of course. Any suggestions for getting the heater core to flow? My thoughts range from soldering or epoxying a new nipple, to purchasing an approximate part (see photo). What does the mounting flange/escutcheon do? Would the eBay approximation part merely be a problem with alignment with the heater core hose, or moreover with the mechanical aspect of mounting? Does the block have the proper threads for the eBay approximation? I am avoiding draining he radiator to remove it until the part comes as I am still working on the electric..! Thanks for your beta, Doug
  • Create New...