dstaton

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About dstaton

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  • Birthday 07/24/1963
  1. I am moving to the sticks and need a 4 wheel drive vehicle. I hope someone will continue my 1962 Starfire project to its completion. It has a special order VIN, and all options except cruise, electronic eye, and power vent. A/C convertible... I haven't tried to recharge the A/C yet. Dashpots seem to be working. The car is fun to drive. I have been taking it to work for a few months now, dependably. I installed a new stereo, a Pioneer, just because, under the seat: AM/FM, iPod, USB, CD, remote control. Two 4" Pioneer speakers replace the 6x9 in the dash, two 3 way Jenson 6 1/4" speakers in the doors, and one 6 1/4" in the back seat. The body metal needs rust repair all around, most notably in the rear passenger quarter panel. Other spots are bubbling. If you want to restore, I have located a rust-free Starfire donor body in CA for $1500. Otherwise, I was bid $2500 for fabrication repairs if I removed and replaced the trim myself. The top operates as it should, but the fabric is gone. I recommend a light blue replacement to make a great and correct combination with the Wedgwood blue paint. To the good: • Motor runs strong, no smoke • Original 4GC Rochester newly rebuilt • Original, serviceable blue upholstery, front and back • Gas tank restored • All chrome and aluminum panels are present and in good condition • New fuel line installed, tank to carburetor • Mallory fuel pump • Power steering works excellently • Brake system completely restored (power booster excluded, but working) • New shocks, all around • New wheel bearings • New alternator (one-wire) • Rebuilt original starter • NOS wiring harness • Rebuilt power top motor • Convertible top frame works as it should • New power antennae • Courtesy lights work • Electric windows aligned and functioning • New tuxedo 80/20 correct carpet • Heater and A/C switches rebuilt • All A/C parts correct and in place: Dished P/S pulley, 5 blade fan, 3 core radiator, 3 groove harmonic balancer, etc. • Solid frame, no breaks or repairs, surface rust • New NOS exhaust system, with dual mufflers and resonators • Electrical components sorted out: dash lights, heater, A/C, etc. • All vacuum hoses replaced and functioning • COPO custom order (!) • Free and clear title Needs: • Top fabric • A/C charged • Bodywork and paint • Suspension work Dozens of duplicate parts will be included with the sale: second convertible top bow, chrome trim, fans, fuel pumps, light relay, power seat motor, wedgewood blue interior panels, kick panels, heater resistor, digital shop manuals, extra NOS wiring harnesses, more... Call 520 510 6093 with questions. Car is in Tucson, AZ 85711 Asking $6000. Doug
  2. SHovel55, Do you have the engine compartment side A/C distributor box with 3 dash pots and the blower? Doug
  3. The switch is faulty. There is one on eBay. I think I'll fix mine instead... Thanks for the help folks! Doug
  4. Thanks, Glenn, I rebuilt the vacuum, noted the proper operation of the mechanical electrical, but neglected to freshen those points... I'll give that a try. Doug
  5. Starfire Mafia, Ok, so I replaced the HVAC and dash today, having rebuilt both the A/C switch and the heater switch, trusting that with good wiring and good switches the system would work. Instead, the A/C switch seems to be working perfectly (although without a charge, I wouldn't know). The first two buttons, off, and open vent, work, and the next two drive air through the kick panel exchanger (evaporator) and blow detritus around on my new carpet. But the heat switch disappointments. The low/high switch does nothing. The voltmeter shows 12.25 when the heater button switch is off. It reads 12.20 when any of the 3 other buttons are depressed. The Direct, Indirect, and Defrost each correctly (and delightfully) rotate the deflector bobbins as they should. The harness is correct and has integrity. The connections are correct. I think I have a couple dashpot failures in the A/C module (popping, failure noises when vacuum is applied...), but I know the heater manifold ones are good. When I started pulling wires from the heater distributor, assuming a shorted component, nothing changed on the voltmeter. But the resistor connections (Black Blue Green, see photo) were noticeably hot to the touch, though not so much as to burn the fingers, when I pulled wires one by one to check for shorts. Also, I heard a very slight tick from the blower motor when the heater was calling, but no blowing... Big blow when the A/C was calling. How can the blower work for the A/C switch and not the heater switch? Could bad electrical components on the heater distributor short the entire system, stopping the blower? Why does the heater switch, which I know works vacuum-wise, not blow? Cruisin anyway, Doug
  6. Thank you, Paul. I drove her to work last week. Such fun!
  7. Starfire Mafia, Are these two connections merely extra? I've sussed all the other connections, including A/C, thanks to StarfireElvis' information. Length-wise, they seem to fall inside the cockpit near the foramen of the firewall. Thanks if anyone remembers what, Doug
  8. Thanks, Joe. Late last night i found this link. It looks familiar enough to be of use. Must more detail than the shop manual. It points out that the fender has to be loosened to access the door hinge, and that there are "story sticks" for mounting the soft top, and which bolts shift the angle of the quarter windows and their guides, etc. Just what I needed. http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/FisherBody/1966/66FisherManual.pdf Best wishes, Doug
  9. Paul, Thanks for the encouragement and patience. I am most pleased to say I know what you know – this is a seriously fun car to drive – and worth the effort! By the way, late last night I found the 1966 Fisher Manual online here: http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/FisherBody/1966/66FisherManual.pdf It has the essential information I needed about loosening the fender to get to the hinges and a detailed frame maintenance guide as well as the vinyl top replacement instructions. Woo, woo! Thanks, Doug
  10. Hello All, Any 1962 or thereabouts GM Full Body Fisher Manuals out there? Doug
  11. Hello Folks, Find attached some pix of my project, finally motoring of her own volition. I am trying to tune the body alignments before replacing the convertible top (which will be light blue). I know I need to adjust the angle of the quarter windows somehow, and that the Fisher manual is the ticket for information, but having looked extensively for the Fisher manual for GM Full bodies I can say with confidence they seem to go extinct around 1958, reappearing in 1966. Has some enterprising youth cornered the market on these rare tomes? Did Fisher stop to cut bait? Is the trick easy enough to repeat here instead? I need to adjust door hinges and window spacings and alignments. Best wishes for the New Year! Doug
  12. Hello Folks, I was able to locate a replacement harness for my 62, but it is of course wired for a generator. Can you advise me per the diagram where exactly to connect my wires for the conversion to alternator? I read elsewhere to connect the old generator wires together and tape them off. Done. And I have wired the new alternator as shown. But what do I do with the original red and green wires from the fuse block? Do they need to connect to the voltage regulator, tied into the new red and green from the alternator? Taped off? The red from fuse block already has an eyelet that fits the horn relay post. Am I missing a jumper wire back to the voltage regulator? Thanks! Doug
  13. Any idea how my alternator could cause the bulb to light? When I pull it out of the circuit the short goes away, and when I add the alternator it lights the bulb. Alternator tests fine after a complete rebuild. I took it to be tested twice...