r1lark

Dale, you continue to impress me with how quickly you are moving along with this project. Thanks for the pictures too, this is very interesting to me since I have never seen one of these before. Nice to know how they are constructed.

Transmissions, as in more than the one you won on eBay? Cool!

Wow Bernie, that looks like a 10,000 piece puzzle! Looking forward to seeing more.

Update Friday 7/22/2016: Whew, it is HOT this afternoon. I've been working outside only in the morning; I can roll the car out at 6:30 am and it stays in the shade of the house until about 11:00 am. Was just out from about 2pm to 3pm, and that sun is brutal. The car is pretty much ready to spray the undercoating. The frame is masked off, and all the trim holes, etc that are thru to a place that will be undercoated are taped off. I do still have to cover the front clip with the thin plastic to make sure no undercoating floats into the engine compartment/firewall while I'm doing the front fenders, but will do that tonight (this can be done with the car inside, thank goodness ). Undercoating showed up Wednesday via Amazon and UPS. Not sure how long it will take me, but hoping it will go pretty quick. This is just one coat of 3M undercoating over the original undercoating, so all of it is one even color. Will post pics and/or video this weekend of the undercoating process. I can't wait to start bolting things back on! All the small brackets and fasteners that I took off are blasted, painted, and ready to be put back on, as well as the gas tank.

Good deal, Dale........you are moving along pretty quick!

Wow Martin, good job in duplicating the 'font' of the letters and numbers.

Well, not on this forum.......but over on the Studebaker Drivers Club forum there is a member "raprice" that is from Smithtown. Do you ever post over at the SDC forum?

Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1923-Studebaker-Transmission-/172276204403?hash=item281c764373:g:p9AAAOSwqfNXi6ZV&vxp=mtr Picture:

Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1923-Studebaker-Transmission-/172276204403?hash=item281c764373:g:p9AAAOSwqfNXi6ZV&vxp=mtr and a picture:

Pretty and shiny, Martin!! What kind of paint, and what kind of gun did you use?

Update Sunday 7/17/2016: Progress continues! Painting of the back half of the frame is done, and cleaning and minor touch up of the factory paint on the front half is done. The 3M undercoating is on order, to put an even coat of undercoat cover over the whole bottom of the car. Been working on cleaning/painting a bunch of small brackets and miscellaneous stuff I pulled off when working on the frame. Still have to put the handwritten assembly line marks back on the frame, and clear coat over the "secret serial number" area on the rear crossmember. I taped over the secret serial number so it wouldn't get painted over with the VHT Chassis epoxy. Got some more parts to paint today, especially finish coating on the heater core box and duct........but it is so HOT out that I'll wait until late tonight just before dark. Pictures below are of the frame coating on the back half, and cleaning the emergency brake parts before disassembling. Interestingly, the e-brake parts were bolted on after the basic frame was painted, but had not paint on them anywhere - so they were cleaned and clear coated.

Thanks for the info Jim. Kinda wondered how fast they would go. Sounds like 55 mph in a FOR would be kinda like 55 mph in a golf cart. . But seems like one would be really cool for running to town were the highest speed limit is 45 mph, and mostly 35 mph. I've seen Crosleys plenty of times, but now I really want to see a FOR.

Dale, I spent some time looking at the links you provided about the FOR. These things are really neat! Do they drive reasonably well on the road? Lots of cool attachments available, but did not notice a mower deck. Saw the pull-behind mower reels, and the attachment that mounts on the front to (I guess) cut brush, but no typical mower deck unless I just missed it. What attachments do you have for yours?

Yep, I agree.........for a one time use, and the satisfaction to say "I made it"..........plus having that $200 still in your pocket .

Thanks for the link Jim, very interesting. Especially liked the letter to the dealers which described all the different attachments. Is there a website anywhere that has pictures or illustrations of all the attachments? I especially thought this was interesting: SPRING BLOCKS: When the FarmOroad is used for plowing, mowing or any other farm work it is necessary to block out the spring action. Such blocks are installed at the factory at an extra charge. These blocks are so designed that they may be quickly snapped out of the way so that full spring and shock absorber action is available on all four wheels for road use, giving the FarmOroad excellent riding qualities. The list price on the spring blocks is $6 FOB Marion, Indiana, for the four required. They are now available. Never really thought about the need to block the spring action when plowing, mowing, etc.

Update Tuesday 7/12/2016: Tomorrow morning will be 'paint the frame' day. Well, at least the back half of the frame.........the front half doesn't need it. Also got part 2 of the prepping the frame for paint video processed, plus a review of tools and chemicals used since several folks requested this. And, it's a short video : https://youtu.be/8MmWq0Efi8Y Enjoy!

F&J, just brainstorming here.......could you fashion a short extension for the sector shaft on a F1 or F100 box? A short version of what they do for hot rods to install cowl steering?

Update Monday 7/11/2016: Been pretty warm (hot & humid) here, so I've been getting out by 7am to work on the car. The frame cleaning and rust converter application is done as of today; only the back half of the frame needed this, the front was still factory paint. Also this afternoon, I painted a bunch of small brackets (gas tank supports, muffler hangers, rear axle rubber bumper holders, etc) and fasteners. On Wednesday, I'll topcoat the back half of the frame, then can start on the 'refreshing' of the undercoating. I did get a video put together, part 1 of the frame cleaning and rust converter application; part 2 will follow in a day or two. Here is the link to part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ctiZ7f6NhY

Here is the link to the referenced post: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/252924-1926-steering-half-nuts/#comment-1346272

Yes, I saw that after I posted the edit with the link, and was getting ready to edit my post yet again.

Generally, 'reversing' a Corvair or similar box involves making the steering shaft come out of the opposite end. This can be done with the recirculating ball steering boxes, but not sure how it would be done with a peg-type steering box. I have seen the steering reverser boxes you are referencing. They basically have two gears, and usually 1:1 ratio, so the rotation of the output is opposite of the input. But I did remember seeing a comment on the HAMB that these boxes interfere with the 'self-centering' effect of a steering system. Don't know if that is true or not, but might need some investigation if you decide to make one of these. Not sure if they are commercially available or not; I did a google search and didn't come up with anything. EDIT: here is the link to the thread on the HAMB I was referencing. Also, the second page shows one of the 'reversing boxes' that we are thinking of: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/need-to-reverse-the-direction-of-my-steering-colum-rotation-looking-for-small-gear.685931/

Oh oh.........did the pitman arm on the Buick point up instead of down? So now, when you turn the wheel to the left, the car steers to the right?

Wow Dale, looks like a great project! Really looking forward to watching this one. Couple of questions though....... In picture 19, is that some type of power take off (PTO) unit? Looks like a Dana 44 rear axle, is that correct? Is that a Warner T-96 transmission?

F&J, in my humble opinion what you are doing is just great. You are using available parts and good thought process to get a old car running, driving, and out in the public. Steering and stopping are critical for a car that will be driven, and you are making sure the Nash is safe to use. Using a like-era steering box in a well-though-out manner is just good sense when the original parts are unobtainable or financially unreasonable. Keep 'em driving! Besides, except for the fact that you have told all of us what you are doing, 99% of the people who look at your car won't well versed enough on Nash authenticity to know the difference. My hat's off to you........I love this thread, following your progress and your innovation. This is what the old car hobby is all about, at least for me.........others' opinions may differ.

Dale, I don't see a for sale sign. You had mentioned in an earlier post that you would sell it at the Crosley National Meet. Did you change your mind ?