Dan Gibbs

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Dan Gibbs

  • Rank
  • Birthday 01/08/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Swartz Creek, MI


  • Biography
    1989 Sapphire Blue Firemist/Blue Moonroof & 16-way Seats. Purchased May-2011
  1. Hey Kevin Sorry for the delay - busy week. I did get to drive the Reatta yesterday and I can say that I'm REALLY enjoying the new Alpine SPS-610's in the back, the better 94-ish LeSabre woofer in the driver's door (haven't gotten the pass-side one in yet), and the Kicker 11HS8 sub laying flat under a towel in the front-pass floorboard. Listening to the local classic-rock station is becoming amazing and I even tried Van Halen's 1984 from my iPhone and the system EQ's well for me and just "giddyups". It gets nice and loud with plenty of fidelity and no noticeable distortion. The factory tweeters have tons of highs if you want it - I have to back them off somewhat and I'm a guy who likes highs for definition. I've found an EQ curve on the factory radio that sounds like it avoids the DDL in the radio so it is working great. https://www.flickr.com/photos/49770894@N03/19812316628/in/dateposted-public/ This is possibly the best stereo system I've had in a car of mine since 1984 - of course I've never had mad money to spend on a good stereo system before either. The local radio station played Aerosmith's song 'Make It' from '73 and I've never heard it sound so good and full from highs to lows. Again, I'm just using the sub to put the bass-guitar and low-toms/bass-drum back into the song mix. It all turns the Reatta interior into a great set of old headphones hehehe. I just went and looked to see if the 11HS8 will fit under the passenger seat. It won't because of the power seat mechanism motor/tranny/drive-cables. If it wasn't for those items, it will fit. It could be worth finding a set of manual seat rails though just to be able to tuck it under there. Another option that I'm thinking now of doing, is to put the passenger seat in an "accomodating" position, and then removing the motor/tranny/drive-cables. The whole drive-sys is usually mounted on a cross-brace bracket that un-bolts from the outer rails. It is a very small unit and will provide more than enough bass for all but the most deaf thumpers. Another cool thing is the included small wired remote bass-level control which allows you to easily adjust the low kick for different songs/music. There are other brands of the mini subs and one I was looking at online was the Pyle PLBASS8. It seems to sell for around $120 and it is probably a good unit. I bought the Kicker 11HS8 because I couldn't wait, but it is $299 in stock at Best Buy, albeit a solidly built unit.
  2. A couple more possibilities, since you say it was left outside for a long time, is mouse-chewed wiring and/or oxidized connections in the wiring. Both of my Reattae had mice inside them for a while. Fortunately, they didn't chew any wiring, but they did nest over the HVAC programmer with all of the yucky-stuff that results from that. The mice woulddn't necessarily have had to get inside the car to cause trouble either - if they nested somewhere under the hood, they could have chewed there too. I had the blower module go bad in my '94 LeSabre at around 150k-miles and replacing the shorted module immediately fixed the problem. So in your case, I could suspect bad connections or chewed wiring causing the shut-down signal to not reach the blower-control module. By the way, is the replacement blower-control module that you used new? Maybe doublecheck that it's still good on another vehicle if you have the opportunity just to rule out that it has failed on you. Dan G.
  3. I just got through test-wiring the new Kicker 11HS8 8" micro powered-subwoofer in my front floorboard and leaning on the passenger seat so I can fiddle with the levels and crossover settings. Gonna test it out this week b&f to work (assuming no rain). Listened to a bit of Alice Cooper's radio show for a few minutes and it seemed to add some "goodness" to the overall sound with some classic rock playing. My desire is to use the front/rear speakers as the mids/highs and fill the lower end with a touch of the sub. The Alpine SPS-610's have definitely made a big difference over the destroyed factory speakers in back. I'm not going for that hippity-hoppity-thunder-crap here either; just trying to get my Reatta's stereo to sound as good as my '97's Concert Sound system. Or maybe even a bit better as the Reatta has a five-band EQ and the Sabre just has bass/treble hehehe. Dan
  4. PM me when you get a chance. I winrar-ed the color copies and they're around 94Mb each (ouch, problem for email with 10Mb limit). Another nice copy of the 88 Tape Deck is 350Mb (dbl-ouch). and the 1990 Tuner is a pdf at 3.2Mb I'm sure there's another way to send these to you via internet, my mind is just going blank right now other than Dropbox. Dan G.
  5. Awesome Kevin I just installed a set of Alpine SPS-610's last night and middle of the week I bought a Kicker 11HS8 8" powered mini subwoofer unit. I didn't realize how bad the factory rear speakers were and bought the sub as a result to fill out the sound (haven't installed that yet). In my testing last night, I found that DDL coming into play (blech). System sounds much better, but of course the damned left-rear-channel sizzling and half-volume-overall-during-sizzle syndrome has reared it's ugly head at times again today- ugh! I dunno if you're interested, but I have a color scanned copy of the 27D-1988-3E tuner, 27D-1988-3F deck, and 27D-1990-3E tuner manuals. The first two are scanned color jpg's from the local Delco repair-house and the 3rd is a pdf found on the web....lemme know. Dan Gibbs
  6. Here ya go Randy http://forums.aaca.org/topic/227027-found-really-good-replacement-for-rear-65-speakers-8889-models/ I just did this today. My tip for the front speakers is at the bottom of the thread.
  7. Hey David Thanks for the tip on the Alpine SPS-610's. I just finished installing a new pair that I bought at Best Buy Saturday afternoon. I knew my front driver-side woofer was rattling, but I didn't realize that the rears were both shot too until I pulled them to measure the proper size. Nothing like having the bass-reflex port be the missing foam surround hehehe. Here's my serendipitous tip for the front door speakers. A few years back, I was getting some dashboard screws for my old '94 LeSabre at the junkyard. The parts car that I was in had both front door panels removed and the factory speakers were just begging me to snarf 'em, so I did. Turns out that they are an improved version of the speakers in my '88 Reatta - same exact stamped frame and same 4-ohm impedance. The great thing is, they used fabric surrounds instead of the foam surrounds. They work great and bolt right in just like factory because they are, just newer and better. The GM part number to look for in the junkyard is 16157492. These were out of a circa '92 to '96 LeSabre - I didn't check the year of the Sabre that I was in as it was just like my '94. The tweeters are connectorized with the woofers so I just took them too, but they are smaller than the ones in the doors of the Reatta. You won't really need them anyway unless for a different project. You'll have to swap the connectorized wires though as these were different from the Reatta, but no big deal. Just pay strict attention to the way the wire colors are on the Reatta speaker - the LeSabre's were reversed. Put the Reatta wires on the new speaker properly or you may have audio-phase cancellation and have to redo them. Dan Gibbs
  8. Two great sources for electronics components are digikey.com and mouser.com . 3.5 ohm is an uncommon value, but both companies have them in stock, albeit in a large wattage value, but they will work. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv1=817&FV=fff40001%2Cfff80482&k=3.5+ohm&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/RS0103R500FE12/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugokt8%252bfNpr21h%2fuPzj%2f8pTsqvLB7KXMFwYbOeAhm320A%3d%3d Dan Gibbs
  9. "I notice the little orange light in the headlight switch is on, as well as the lamp retract. They stay on even when I turn the car off." I may be asking what will seem to be an insulting question, it's not meant to be at all, but simple fixes rule most of the time. I noticed a lack of one step in your description. I ask this as a maintenance/repair technician in the electronics field and imply no judgement at all. Being that this is a 23 to 25 yr-old car and still old-school, unlike cars from the early 90's forward.... Did you press the "LIGHTS OFF" button on the headlight-switch pod? I ask this because you specifically mentioned the orange LED was lit. When you turn off the ignition key and even remove it, that LED will still be lit because the LIGHTS or PARK buttons are still engaged. Same for the Fog Lights. Younger folks won't know of the old days when you had to pull a "headlights" knob out all the way to turn on the headlights or pull it out only part-way to only turn on the parking lights. Our '88-'89 Reattae are the bridge between old-school mechanical-switching and the "ease" of push-button controls - it could be deceptive to the younger folk who are used to soft-touch push-button stuff that just resets when something is turned off. Again, no insults are intended. If that was not the problem, and you have hit the Lights Off button, that means that the contacts inside the headlight switchpod have welded together and the switch needs to be removed, the contacts disengaged and repaired (if possible), and a relay installed that can handle the higher current of different-higher-current-spec headlights. I remember a reading a thread on this subject last year. Cheers
  10. Wow, I know it's just batteries, but I really enjoyed reading this post and all of the responses - especially KDirk's regarding the standard vs. AGM lifespan comparison and Barney's tip for repairing the battery tray. To refresh my memory of the acronym AGM, I googled and read again, Absorption Glass Mat. This AGM term was formerly known as SLA, or sealed lead-acid. SLA's have been around nearly forever at this point - they are in computer UPS packs, home-security systems as the back-up battery during AC-power loss, "EXIT"-sign lights at your workplace, etcetera. For those interested, here's a great link: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm As a side-note, I recently killed and had to warranty-replace a brand new battery that I bought new at O'Reillys in November for my '88 - I left it hooked-up over the winter months without a trickle charger. DEAD as a doornail this March. I used my jumpbox to start the car and the ABS light came on, the CRT was tripping out etcetera. I put the big charger on the battery for a while and it never did come back right. One thing that I think I discovered for myself was that these Reattae DO NOT like less than optimum battery voltages!!! New battery installed and all has been well again.
  11. Hey, I forgot to mention before work - there are disassembled views of the headlight switch, wiper switch, console shift indicator, and 89 four button switch bank under the cassette player too. All in my album on Flickr. You can get to the contacts to clean them in the headlight switch, wiper switch, and 4-switch bank. When I had all of those apart, I cleaned them thoroughly with a tooth brush and windex, and then matte-cleared them with a can of Krylon. They turned out great looking - for those interested A big reason I cleared them, including the buttons, was to prevent "use" from removing the white lettering on the buttons over time. Cheers, Dan
  12. Hey Ronnie You're right... I see that I didn't show how to take apart the window switch. If you look at pics DSC2473, DSC2474, and DSC2475, you'll notice four small rectangular slots near the bottom edge of the outer switch shell/cover. Then, compare those slots to the four tangs (two on each side) on the inner switch body shown in pics DSC2472, DSC2476 and DSC2477. To disassemble the switch, I used four small flatblade screwdrivers placed in the bottom of the assembled switch - I placed the screwdrivers in the points between the inner switch body and the outer shell to make room for the tangs to clear the rectangular slots on the outer shell. I then gripped the electrical-connection pins with some needle-nose pliers to pull the inner switch body out of the outer shell. Once the inner body and shell are separated, look at the pic DSC2472 and notice the large brass plate on the top of the inner switch body. This needs to be removed to get to the switch contacts. Use a small pocket-knife blade to pry between the brass plate and the black plastic body - it will lift straight up. You can use less than four screwdrivers, you just may want to have a friend hold the outer shell for you as you release one side and then the other to remove the inner switch body. I used four Xcelite 3323 screwdrivers as they're common around my shop and I usually am by myself There are four common contacts on the brass plate on the underside to clean. The corresponding moving contacts are on the inner brass mechanisms. This point is where the fiberglass pencil that I mentioned in the previous post makes this cleaning a breeze as you can easily get to the inner contacts with vey little effort to gently clean them. You'll notice also there are four solder blobs on top of the brass plate where the contacts are located underneath - I went a bit overkill and soldered the contact crimp-points on the top of the plate just to be sure. I scuffed those points with the fiberglass-pencil and applied a little solder flux to speed soldering on those points too. As a side note - whenever soldering, whether wires or whatever, using non-acidic solder flux is a massive time and part saver. The flux allows you to solder faster and better and not have to apply tons of heat to a joint to get the solder-bond. When working with metals attached to plastic, this is a big deal as applying heat for too long will of course transfer heat to any attached plastic and usually melt or damage the plastic. Cheers, Dan G
  13. Hey All Just a note to say that I finally got around to refurbing my '88-Red's console window-control-switches and I am amazed at how well they now work compared to before. It takes very little pressure in either direction for either switch to effortlessly operate the windows now. I had to press uncomfortably hard to get the driver's window to go up for the last two years. The passenger side was better than the driver's side before but now it operates like I'm sure they did when the car was new. Mine '88-Red currently has 90,670 miles on it. I actually performed this refurb first on my 160k '89-Blue's switches back in 2012 or so and the difference was night and day then. I took a plethora of photos of the process and uploaded the set to my Flickr page as an album. Here is the link for those interested: https://www.flickr.com/photos/49770894@N03/sets/72157645384851757 There is one tool that I bought at Radio Shack years ago that is invaluable for cleaning switch and relay contacts - a fiberglass cleaning pencil. It is nice because it easily removes the oxidation and years of arcing from the contacts. You can buy these pencils almost anywhere on the web. This is the one I have that I use at work that I bought from here: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/DISTRIBUTED-BY-MCM-SABU10191-/SABU10191 The secret to soft-touch operation while you're refurbing is to add a daub of solder about 1/16" thick to the center oval of the brass mechanism as shown in the second picture on my flickr page. The pic is titled, "DSC02468 89 Reatta Power Window Switch Guts". I also used the fiberglass pencil to scuff up the brass oval and then applied a daub of solder flux before applying the daub of solder. I HIGHLY recommend this refurb to anyone who hates how hard you have to press older switches to get your windows to operate!!! Lesson here too is, don't just replace those switches and throw out the old ones!!! they're easy to fix and besides saving money, you save these rare parts!!! Cheers, Dan Gibbs
  14. Hey All Currently looking to go out to the goo-rodge and pull my '88's tail-light assembly. I want to get it into my living-room/dude-cave and polish off the years of oxidation.I think it's one of the small "workings" that can make so much improvement in the visual appeal. Wish me luck folks!!!
  15. Hello Bob Where in the H%&L did you hear that...hehehe? Straight from the horse's Ass, I mean mouth: Source: http://www.michigan.gov/mdard/0,4610,7-125-1566_1733_23370-63247--,00.html "Ethanol Fuels Ethanol has been used as an octane enhancer in Michigan gasoline for many years. Adding ethanol to the gasoline increases the octane almost 3 Anti Knock Index points. Not all gasoline contains ethanol. If ethanol is in the gasoline, it is limited to no more then 10 percent of the total volume for conventional fuels." HMMM....anti-knock index-points!!! Wooohoo-whuht? I heard that we've been subject to the 10%-ethanol-mix for quite a while and there was consideration a while ago to go to 15%. My '97 LeSabre (3.8-SeriesII) has lost mileage in the last six months and I'm suspecting more ethanol or water or whatever as the cause - especially since the "drop" in prices over the last so many months (which are now going back up). BTW, I grimaced silently as I filled up my '88 at Meijer on Hill & 23 yesterday at $2.99/gal. And yes I realize that gas is more expensive in other places in the nation - I'm just sayin', we're all gettin' screwed :-D Chhers Bob, Hope to see you soon around the greater-Flint area, Dan G.