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Dan Gibbs

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About Dan Gibbs

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  • Birthday 01/08/1967
  1. Hey Kevin Sorry for the delay - busy week. I did get to drive the Reatta yesterday and I can say that I'm REALLY enjoying the new Alpine SPS-610's in the back, the better 94-ish LeSabre woofer in the driver's door (haven't gotten the pass-side one in yet), and the Kicker 11HS8 sub laying flat under a towel in the front-pass floorboard. Listening to the local classic-rock station is becoming amazing and I even tried Van Halen's 1984 from my iPhone and the system EQ's well for me and just "giddyups". It gets nice and loud with plenty of fidelity and no noticeable distortion. The factory tweet
  2. A couple more possibilities, since you say it was left outside for a long time, is mouse-chewed wiring and/or oxidized connections in the wiring. Both of my Reattae had mice inside them for a while. Fortunately, they didn't chew any wiring, but they did nest over the HVAC programmer with all of the yucky-stuff that results from that. The mice woulddn't necessarily have had to get inside the car to cause trouble either - if they nested somewhere under the hood, they could have chewed there too. I had the blower module go bad in my '94 LeSabre at around 150k-miles and replacing the shorted mod
  3. I just got through test-wiring the new Kicker 11HS8 8" micro powered-subwoofer in my front floorboard and leaning on the passenger seat so I can fiddle with the levels and crossover settings. Gonna test it out this week b&f to work (assuming no rain). Listened to a bit of Alice Cooper's radio show for a few minutes and it seemed to add some "goodness" to the overall sound with some classic rock playing. My desire is to use the front/rear speakers as the mids/highs and fill the lower end with a touch of the sub. The Alpine SPS-610's have definitely made a big difference over the destroyed
  4. PM me when you get a chance. I winrar-ed the color copies and they're around 94Mb each (ouch, problem for email with 10Mb limit). Another nice copy of the 88 Tape Deck is 350Mb (dbl-ouch). and the 1990 Tuner is a pdf at 3.2Mb I'm sure there's another way to send these to you via internet, my mind is just going blank right now other than Dropbox. Dan G.
  5. Awesome Kevin I just installed a set of Alpine SPS-610's last night and middle of the week I bought a Kicker 11HS8 8" powered mini subwoofer unit. I didn't realize how bad the factory rear speakers were and bought the sub as a result to fill out the sound (haven't installed that yet). In my testing last night, I found that DDL coming into play (blech). System sounds much better, but of course the damned left-rear-channel sizzling and half-volume-overall-during-sizzle syndrome has reared it's ugly head at times again today- ugh! I dunno if you're interested, but I have a color scanned co
  6. Here ya go Randy http://forums.aaca.org/topic/227027-found-really-good-replacement-for-rear-65-speakers-8889-models/ I just did this today. My tip for the front speakers is at the bottom of the thread.
  7. Hey David Thanks for the tip on the Alpine SPS-610's. I just finished installing a new pair that I bought at Best Buy Saturday afternoon. I knew my front driver-side woofer was rattling, but I didn't realize that the rears were both shot too until I pulled them to measure the proper size. Nothing like having the bass-reflex port be the missing foam surround hehehe. Here's my serendipitous tip for the front door speakers. A few years back, I was getting some dashboard screws for my old '94 LeSabre at the junkyard. The parts car that I was in had both front door panels removed and the facto
  8. Two great sources for electronics components are digikey.com and mouser.com . 3.5 ohm is an uncommon value, but both companies have them in stock, albeit in a large wattage value, but they will work. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv1=817&FV=fff40001%2Cfff80482&k=3.5+ohm&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/RS0103R500FE12/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugokt8%252bfNpr21h%2fuPzj%2f8pTsqvLB7KXMFwYbOeAhm320A%3d%3d Dan Gibbs
  9. "I notice the little orange light in the headlight switch is on, as well as the lamp retract. They stay on even when I turn the car off." I may be asking what will seem to be an insulting question, it's not meant to be at all, but simple fixes rule most of the time. I noticed a lack of one step in your description. I ask this as a maintenance/repair technician in the electronics field and imply no judgement at all. Being that this is a 23 to 25 yr-old car and still old-school, unlike cars from the early 90's forward.... Did you press the "LIGHTS OFF" button on the headlight-switch pod?
  10. Wow, I know it's just batteries, but I really enjoyed reading this post and all of the responses - especially KDirk's regarding the standard vs. AGM lifespan comparison and Barney's tip for repairing the battery tray. To refresh my memory of the acronym AGM, I googled and read again, Absorption Glass Mat. This AGM term was formerly known as SLA, or sealed lead-acid. SLA's have been around nearly forever at this point - they are in computer UPS packs, home-security systems as the back-up battery during AC-power loss, "EXIT"-sign lights at your workplace, etcetera. For those interested, here
  11. Hey, I forgot to mention before work - there are disassembled views of the headlight switch, wiper switch, console shift indicator, and 89 four button switch bank under the cassette player too. All in my album on Flickr. You can get to the contacts to clean them in the headlight switch, wiper switch, and 4-switch bank. When I had all of those apart, I cleaned them thoroughly with a tooth brush and windex, and then matte-cleared them with a can of Krylon. They turned out great looking - for those interested A big reason I cleared them, including the buttons, was to prevent "use" from rem
  12. Hey Ronnie You're right... I see that I didn't show how to take apart the window switch. If you look at pics DSC2473, DSC2474, and DSC2475, you'll notice four small rectangular slots near the bottom edge of the outer switch shell/cover. Then, compare those slots to the four tangs (two on each side) on the inner switch body shown in pics DSC2472, DSC2476 and DSC2477. To disassemble the switch, I used four small flatblade screwdrivers placed in the bottom of the assembled switch - I placed the screwdrivers in the points between the inner switch body and the outer shell to make room for the
  13. Hey All Just a note to say that I finally got around to refurbing my '88-Red's console window-control-switches and I am amazed at how well they now work compared to before. It takes very little pressure in either direction for either switch to effortlessly operate the windows now. I had to press uncomfortably hard to get the driver's window to go up for the last two years. The passenger side was better than the driver's side before but now it operates like I'm sure they did when the car was new. Mine '88-Red currently has 90,670 miles on it. I actually performed this refurb first on my 16
  14. Hey All Currently looking to go out to the goo-rodge and pull my '88's tail-light assembly. I want to get it into my living-room/dude-cave and polish off the years of oxidation.I think it's one of the small "workings" that can make so much improvement in the visual appeal. Wish me luck folks!!!
  15. Hello Bob Where in the H%&L did you hear that...hehehe? Straight from the horse's Ass, I mean mouth: Source: http://www.michigan.gov/mdard/0,4610,7-125-1566_1733_23370-63247--,00.html "Ethanol Fuels Ethanol has been used as an octane enhancer in Michigan gasoline for many years. Adding ethanol to the gasoline increases the octane almost 3 Anti Knock Index points. Not all gasoline contains ethanol. If ethanol is in the gasoline, it is limited to no more then 10 percent of the total volume for conventional fuels." HMMM....anti-knock index-points!!! Wooohoo-whuht? I heard that we
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