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About AlanD

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1969
  1. Was there ever a coating or graphite paint used on the inside of a crankcase? Looking inside the crankcase on a 1925 REO 4 cylinder engine, everything has a nice grey color (no surface rust) and it appears to be painted. But when I wipe my finger across any surface inside there, the end of my finger comes back grey and it looks like graphite. My thoughts are either its some sort of graphite paint or coating, or babbitt - which I hope it's not. Thanks for the suggestions on this. Alan
  2. Thanks for all the views and replies. I was told that it is correct to have all 4 ends covered. And the small holes are for grease, as DavidAU mentioned. Looking at the inside of the other three, the end looked to be brass and the outside was grey/silver color of lead or solder. So I cut out a brass disc to fit and tried to solder it on. I used different types of solder with no success at all. None would stick and all I did was over heat the bushing. So I mixed up some JBweld and attached the disc that way. So far this solution looks great. FYI, there is a grease zerk on the u-joint housing
  3. Taking apart this U-joint on the drive shaft, there are 4 bearings that can be removed from the ends. That thing was packed with old hard grease and made me wonder if this could be 1923 vintage grease. Looking at the top left of the picture, the arrow is pointed to the end of one of the bearings. The red and black arrow on the bottom right is pointed to one of the bearings which is open on it's end - this is the only one open. It just looks like solder or lead on the end of these, forming a cap. I don't know for sure but could this be lead on the end of the bearing? And how could I go abou
  4. That's what I was thinking too, and I was hoping Jon would elaborate.
  5. Thanks for responses. I actually have already made a gasket by hand, but I was just wondering if there were listings for plain ole rings or an assortment kit like Jon was referring to. In fact, Jon - I emailed your company asking about this so nevermind it since you answered it here.What do you mean by "underhood fire extinguisher? The gasket I made will do I guess, but its just not as round or tight as a stamped one. Alan
  6. Is there a source or a kit to purchase generic carburetor gaskets by their size? For example, I'm looking for the thin gasket for the float bowl on a Johnson Model A carburetor, and I figure there must be a gasket that fits many carbs, even lawn tractor carbs. One I'm looking for measures ID = 2.625", OD = 2.725", thick = .025" Thanks and Happy New Year everyone. Alan
  7. Starting to put the multi-disc clutch back together. Got all the old gunk and grease off the dry clutch plates, and have a new roller bearing. Here's the set up: The drive roller bearing goes up inside the spindle that holds the clutch discs. For this picture I didn't put the clutch discs on the spindle that I'm holding in my hand ( left in pic) but normally they would be on there. The roller bearing goes up inside the spindle, like this. Now all this fits onto the shaft in the flywheel. and like I said, normally the clutch discs would be there too. So my question is - What type of grease sh
  8. Well I got it pulled and it turned out to be much easier than I thought. I have to admit that I'm intimidated on this thing because in the back of my mind I think that there are no replacement parts easily found and if I break something I might not be able to fix it or correct it (or it will cost a lot).Anyway, my dad had a jaw puller so I set it up and to see if anything would happen with a slight amount of pressure. I know this is not the tool suggested but It had it and just wanted to give it a try. With just a little tension it started moving and soon it came off, much easier than I though
  9. Thanks for the reply. You mean use the bolts still in the yoke there and snug the puller flat up with them?
  10. I hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving Holiday. I pulled the transmission and am now trying to pull the front yoke off so I can replace the roller bearing under the starter sprocket. I see there is a straight key on the shaft so I'm assuming its not threaded on. Before I start pulling on it I thought I'd ask if anyone has done this so I don't break it. I'm figuring I'll clamp a puller on it and crank away. Any other suggestions? The ratchet seems to be part of the yoke (all one piece). The rag U-joint bolts to the yoke. You can see the key at the bottom. There was a bolt in the cent
  11. AlanD

    Thank you, all

    I've gotten a lot of good advise and encouragement, and of course new friends from this forum. So I wanted to express my appreciation on this appropriate eve. Thank You! Alan
  12. Well I have learned a lot in the last few days, and my thanks to many friendly experts. First the mystery of the separate friction disc that seemed to be by itself. I was confused why the retainer ring didn't hold it on the hub. The fact is that it's not designed to. It will only hold back the metal discs, the friction discs can slide right over it and the only one that could is the last one closest to the flywheel. This is why it seemed to be by itself. It just happened to be stuck on the flywheel by grease. The sequence should be a friction disc at the beginning and end of the pack with meta
  13. Here is the clutch drive roller bearing with dimensions. It goes up inside the clutch pack hub and it has the number 2407 stamped on it which, so far, doesn't cross to anything. I wonder if I could find a sealed permanently lubed bearing to replace this with. Still looking for that or the regular type as shown in the pic. What's a good source for bearing like this?
  14. Ken, The driver plate in pic #2 has the same dimensions as the others. I have documenting all the pieces with pictures like this: This was taken after I cleaned all the grease and oil off of it. Even after a few days drying they still smell a little like gas.
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