65Starfire

The Vacuum pump increases vacuum when the car is under acceleration and the manifold pressure is lower. This is generally for the Windshield Wipers which will slow down when you are going up a hill without it. Lincoln later switched to a hydraulic (1960 maybe 1961 definitely) wiper motor and removed the need for a vacuum pump.

Did you try here? http://www.runningboardrubber.com/patterns.html#Lincoln They seem to be able to reproduce them I have a set for a 4 door sedan that I need to have done so they could use them as patterns.

I wish it was for a Mark II. The other "problem" is that the Grey Color is correct but all the ones in the cars have turned greenish with contact from light and so without NOS gages is looks "wrong" But a beautiful clock!

I kept getting stuff that was close but no cigar !

Also if I remember correctly there are thermal circuit breakers in line on the passenger interior fire wall at the transmission hump that heat up and open. Ill try and see if I can look it up in the shop manual. Most likely the grease for the window tracks is hard and causing the motors to overdraw and heat up the breaker.

Thanks! Just what he needed!

My body shop just called and for various reasons they are missing pictures of the trunk hinge torsion bar installation. So... Does anyone have a sedan out there (64-65) that can open the trunk and take some pictures of the torsion bar installation? Many thanks!

They did in 1942 - it was called a liquamatic and it was a complete failure: http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/automotive-history-lincolns-liquamatic-drive-failure-to-upshift/ and here with a picture of one on the last ones around: http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?forum=18&topic=3083

First - set the timing using a vacuum gauge to make sure you are where you need to be. The harmonic balancers on engines that old ofter shift some as the rubber dries out. Get it to a point with the highest vacuum at idle. Second - MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT CARB! MEL's have different carbs by year and they need to be matched correctly. Fuel pump - make sure that the push rod is the correct length (there is a bronze plug that wears down and makes it too short) also make sure that the heat shield, insulation and vapor return line are their and functional... Do you have a heat choke line going to the exhaust manifold or an aftermarket electric choke?

Trim the end of the old wire and strip back 1" of insulation. Solder the new wire to the old and apply some wire lube (get it from Home Depot). Gently pull the old wire out and the new will follow. Take your time and if it gets stuck just pull it back a bit to spread the lube. Cut off the old wire and strip a new section. Be patient. If the wire breaks you may be able to pull 2 wires with one in the same technique... Good luck and post some pics of the process...

Can you post some pictures so I can understand what you are discussing? Thanks!

As far as the broken steel bearing sleeve you may want to simply machine the exposed section and press on an outer sleeve around the broken one to hold it together and keep it from moving. Otherwise I would leave it alone. Looks good! Makes me want to get back to my Mark if I can ever clear the deck enough! Joseph Stebbins

Call Herb and the Lincoln Mercury Old Parts Store - 727-445-1091

If you find a formula please share! Also check the mark II forum. Www.markiiforum.com

The MEL engines are strong but notorious for having valves stick after sitting. Check compression. Also the crank mounted eaton PS pumps are getting hard to find good cores on so make sure it is good with clear fluid. Brakes are drum but easily converted to 2 circuit discs. This is a heavy car and if you are not going to show it definitely upgrade the brakes. Good luck!