GK1918

How about being rare when new? Here (when in high school) my 58 Park Lane not only quite rare convertible it was a J code that is tri power 400hp. Only a handful were built. I always consider Park Lanes with a Buick Limited. Both are big big bucks if you can find one, so is 57 Bonneville fuel injected. I wish I kept that one, atleast I still have the license plates .. In the background is a 1933 PD conv. try and find one I repent each day not counting the station wagon - thats still biting me you know where! sam

Just for comparison. My youngest boy bought a 41 2 dr from the local junkyard for $500. No interior, needs chrome, but we bought a new battery some brake fluid 5 gal of gas and drove in home. Myself I only paid for a manifold gasket set napa. Fast foward as usual the kid lost interest and I gotta baby sit the thing. Then out of no where a guy pops in the shop with $2000 cash. End of story he drives off into the sunset & never seen him no more..

This brings back memory's back in the bus company. These were always cracking, we use to completely mill off (where yours is broken) and machine a steel sleeve. No gaskets were used just a graffite paste. After all the complaints, in 1951 they smartened up, with new webbed castings & they didn't crack. Problem using these in a car is, the exhaust pipe is 3 inches with a 3 bolt flange. Hot enough back there in a rear engine coach, manifolds would be cherry red after a run. They all had a tin square catch pan under the carb with a pipe going down to drain gas if need be. sam

Thanks, I said that cause I have seen many many solid cars like Bucksters that they went hog wild, lost stuff, got so deep, the car ended in the jaws of death. Bucksters car is so rare around here it aint funny. I havent seen one of those since they were new. They just don't exist here in the N.E. my ole man was a DeSoto freak last DeSoto I seen around here was his, a new 1951 Sportsman he bought and traded in 1960, never seen another. I believe Buckster knows what he's doing, but myself I'd give that flathead my best shot. Nothing like the smooth straight eight power especially with fluid drive. They very forgiving running like a watch just saying

Unfortunately quite aways about 36 miles so. of Boston and about 20min from Prov RI. town of Dighton Mass. Ironically there is only one other Dighton & thats Dighton Kansas. Small town like this one. So I stop at a 1940's like pizza joint and tell to girl "so this is what made Judy Garland famous"? she says who's that.?? thats a good one. sam

Encouragement; years ago I bought a Model T engine that was burried as a door step for 5 bucks, burried in the late 1930s. I soaked it in a barrel with diesel fuel, story short cleaned honed it and stuck it in a 26 Ford and drove off in the sunset. Then I have a neightbor with a 8 cyl Imperial sweet sweet and that has fluid drive. Do you know the fluid drive has a low? found that out with the ole mans new 51 DeSoto =put it in second and floor it , it now kicks into first yes it will do a burn outs. However that stunt cost me a strapping. If you were closer, Id bet 100 bucks we will get you going as long as there are no blown out freeze cracks and not for billions of dollars. We cater for these to preserve for affordable, dont worry we we make up the difference on the newer (junk) Your case I see a good cleaning, valve job, rings new rod & mains. Why did someone take the head off and give up? That I need to know. My guess was a burnt valve, then they gave up; which its freshman 101 in high school. What I'm seeing in your pics, I say around 8-900 dollars, run in and tested ....Then after the car moves, then panels one a time, dont go to deep, one step at a time while driving it. sam we strickly use USA parts

Possibility for a 265 cic flathead 6 which will bolt right up to fluid drive. These were made well into the 1970's. Mine was Chrysler Marine 265X

Shot in the dark but google "Morse Controls" mfg. of push pull cables good chance you have a Morse cable supplied to GM they make custom cables too

I say put it together it will run fine. "Barnette is a new one on me" looks quality built....

Our shop is about that size 12' door 15' pit we do machining and truck work. I just advise, if going wood-wood trusses, take the extra time to plate with plywood triangles all truss joints. Don't trust those cheap pressed tin truss joints. easier to do when on the ground. We just built a 80 x 100 barn last summer and already lost three trusses do to snow, in kind of those tin joints - it takes one failed joint, and there goes the domino effect. So plate your joints with plywood, you wont be sorry. sam

Pic of my bus I sold a couple years ago.

I agree, all of our hand wheels on mills and lathes are polished plain steel you swear are chrome. But they have to be maintained. do research on clear coats as bleach said. You can use a angle grinder with a buff wheel and rouge sticks. First you got to grind all the pits/imperfections going finer and finer then buff using grey, then red then the finish white rouge sticks. Its the same deal as truckers dont clear their wheel rims or fuel tanks more like on Sundays they buff them to a mirror. So one step at a time on saw horses grind and buff, but I would still do a clear coat research, cause I find some tend to come out with a tint (not clear) kind of cloudy looking. worth a try

Exactly what I'm takin about. Florida, 80-85 you aint going more that 25 or 30 here in buckled Masshole and even at 30 you get launched into the roof slam blowout... This amounts to billions in road repair here, and I'll never see it....

Out of the cobwebs of my brain, says, one of the first freoned AC produced (cars) was Packard around 41 or 2. I have AC manual from a 1941 Flxible Clipper Bus that during that time Charles Kettering was a board chairman or something at Flxible, and is said he was the father of freon and many other inventions..

Happy birthday by the way my touring eats snow for breakfast !!!

And whats a modern highway? "Junkyard Jeff says his Chevy isnt designed for these speeds" , neither is my pickup designed for 15MPH! Around here anything over 25mph is sewer- side...I got an egg on my head to prove it.. Its not only a single stretch, is all of them. Time to break out my T, but only if it has a heater....?? sam come here if you need hub caps and busted springs they are all over

Anyone mention the CHPs 1958 Mercurys with the 430 and tri power? There is one on the MEL site being restored...

Are they reliable? us kids tried to blow one up back when they were a dime a dozen. Gas sand rocks in the crankcase a rock on the gas pedal it would just slow down and stop - soon as it cooled down it would start right up again. It simply would not die. Got a whopping 5 bucks from the junkyard. So thats reliable......

Now I got it thats better sam

Correct me if wrong or maybe I"m reading this all wrong. I am just not seeing the radiator shell as a 33? Looks like a 32 to me ????????

The problem with grafting a sedan body - you have to deal with the bottom rear curve (gas tank apron area) then there will be a little wheel housing curve where rear fender bolts on. Thats a lot of work. I bet 5 bucks if the dash garnish moulding is taken off , it has been slit along the holes (keeping the captured nuts) the rest is easy to put a PD dash in a Dodge. and why because I have done it, all the PD front clip goes right on. My attempt making a PD 7 Pass. was done using a 2 dr sectioned to a 4dr at the center post. The two door has longer front doors so It gave an extra 4 inches or so compaired to the 4 door. Dont forget I was a kid and these things were a dime a dozen. I should have taken pics of that one. I have been on search for a PD (beyond) my quest is only the cowel a little bit of the top to produce my station wagon. My kid has cabinet skills thats no problem. If you study this pic its not hard by the way on the right that 34 Dodge is mine too this pic was around 1962 ish Oh that number plate Mass reg 352 is now on my 1923 Ford sam

there ya go ........................................

What I did was leave the regulator there you can remove the arm & field generator wires. connect the one wire alt. to the regulator Batt. that goes to the ampmeter and into the system. Im just using the regulator for a terminal board.

very sweet straight car sam