Ian.Harrold

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About Ian.Harrold

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  • Birthday 02/04/1977
  1. At the risk of reviving an old thread, I have had good luck with amazon aswell. http://amzn.com/B00CZAKL7A I bought this fuel pump for my 1940 PT105.
  2. I have a Pacer truck topper that came off my 1940 Plymouth truck. I believe it was made in the early 60's to early 70's (Mfd. by Robert L. Erekson Trust, Billings Mont.). It fits a short bed truck with a box size of aprox 78" long by 48" wide. I had this on my 1940 truck, but no longer use it. This is very solid construction of wood with metal sheathing. It has been garage kept and show no signs of water damage or deterioration. http://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/pts/4616143078.html The Topper is located in Cedar Rapids, IA
  3. I tore the carb apart, cleaned and soaked everything in carb cleaner overnight. When I was rebuilding the carb, I noticed the float was way off, it should 5/64 (or about) below the body of the carb, I was measuring about 1/4 above. I should have checked prior to tearing it apart. This may explain why it was overflowing since the float was unable to push the needle back in. This could have been masked by the poor performing pump which couldn't deliver enough fuel to flood the carb. I also took some time to block sand all the mating surfaces flat to help seal the carb at the gaskets. So I'll see if this fixes my problem. If not, I will have to consider either a pressure regulator, or a different pump.
  4. Ughh... Truck stalled on me as I put the clutch in to pull into a parking spot at work and then wouldn't restart afterwords. Popped the hood and the carb was leaking fuel bad from lots of places. I think the new pump might be a tad too much fuel pressure for the old carb, and I am probably due to rebuild the carb anyways. Hopefully the fuel will evaporate enough so that the truck will start again after work so that I can limp home. I think the carb is flooded and so it won't start. I guess I have a weekend project now. I think I'll get a fuel regulator aswell and set to 4 psi.
  5. All, I am toying with upgrading to a pointless system. Petronix has model 2563LSP6 which should be a replacement for an Autolite IGS-4203 distributor with 6V + chassis. Looking at the wiring diagram provided by Petronix here. It shows the negative side being switched. However, my understanding the Coil's + side is attached to the armored ignition switch cable inside the cab. The "-" terminal is connected to the distributor. If this is the case, then I should be able to wire both the "Ignitor Black Wire" and the "+" terminal to the armored ignition switch? Or should I wire the "Ignitor Black Wire" to the negative power. If the coil is not energized (via the switched +, the ignitor should then likewise not be energized)? Or should I simply run the Armored ignition switched line to the "Ignitor Black Wire" and then connect the "+" coil terminal to chassis. Which would reverse the current wiring. Which is recommend? Anyone tried this system aswell or other petronix system?
  6. I found an Airtex 73201 on Amazon of all places for a very good price and was a direct replacement for my engine. Jon, I appreciate the feedback. I may still upgrade the old pump so I'll keep the information you provided handy.
  7. Hello, I went to start my 1940 pick up yesterday and it would not start. I took the line off of the carb and cranked the engine and nothing flowed out. The motor in the truck is newer, from around 52. The fuel pump is tagged with a Circled E and the numbers "588 230e" which I believe is a Carter M847 pump. I think the rubber finally gave out. Any idea on a part number for a rebuild kit?
  8. So I checked the compression after letting it idle and warm up. 100, 90, 83, 90, 90, 90. I put a bit of oil in #3 and it popped up to 90. So the compression is right in the ball park of minimum acceptable. Though #3 does indicate perhaps the rings aren't the best after it had sat for 12 years. Vacuum was around 18 psi at idle and wobbled by about 1/2 to 3/4 of psi. Plugs looked normal, and I regapped them prior to checking vacuum. I still need to adjust the tappets. EDIT: I was thinking about my Dwell Meter, Equus 3400. It has two leads, + and -. I am wondering if my measurements are 90 degree out of phase... i.e. 90 - "MY READING" = real. I noticed that when I was checking the points and filed them I could fit a pretty large file through the gap when it was at the top of a lobe. So if I am reading 39, then 90 - 39 = 51 actual which may explain such a rough idle and the large gap. I'll try readjusting with feelers back to 0.020 and measure with Dwell Meter?
  9. I have had good luck with Andy Bernbaum. Parts I ordered arrived and were direct replacement.
  10. Now that I listen more, it sounds less and less like something in the bottom end more like something in the valve train. Below is a video: Thoughts?
  11. Thanks Ply33. I have never done much engine work before. And when I have it was always on new fuel injected motors. The head bolts on these were torque to yield, thus use and toss. I had to investigate how set points. I was used to rewriting the computer air/fuel maps and delay of timing. Right now I just want to investigate why my engine is sounding rough and by my best guess missing. Your advise on measuring the roundness is worthy. Any other ideas as to what it could be? On the Passenger side all I can hear is the oil pump, it sounds like it is coming from the driver side of the motor. But inside the cab, it sounds like the Passenger side. Valve train? EDIT: I have been listening to rod knock video's, and it does not sound like an audible metallic "knock"
  12. Is your heat riser stuck open?
  13. Update. So the truck is running rough again. Dwell is set to 39, pretty close to the 38 recommended. At idle it feels like it is missing, though I am having difficulty tracking it down to a particular cylinder. I am also hearing a knocking sound at idle. It sounds like the driver side of the motor. I'll try and post a video or audio of it. Out of curiosity if it were a rod or crank bearing, can I replace them with the engine still the truck? Can I just drop the pan and replace the Rod bearings? Or do I need to remove the head aswell? The shop manual was unclear. One final question, are the head bolts torque to yeild or can they be reused?