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stephenemirra

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Everything posted by stephenemirra

  1. if your question is do I still have the old non working radio that was original to the chrysler TC the answer is yes I no longer have the car but I know the radio is in my garage if you want a non working original electronic graphic equalizer radio if you want this you can have it for free
  2. Alan, I will tell you the Allante "was" on my list of cars to own. And I "did". I had a nice one. But, no matter how well I treated that car it was a money pit. I was plagued with one electrical problem after another. You name it, it went wrong on my car. It got to be the opposite of fun so I sold it. A few years later I got the itch for a fun convertable car again to occupy the second stall in my garage. The TC honestly has proven to be a very fun and reliable toy for me. All-be-it not as feature laden as the Allante. When things occasionally do go wrong parts are cheap and attainable, and my mechanic can resolve the issues easilly and for a reasonable price. Not so on the Allante which really required a very high end mechanic with a lot of know how do diagnone and repair it $$$. Stephen
  3. I mentioned that I was adding a self dimming rear view mirror with outside temperature and compass. Here it is in a photo. It has the map lights built in and I was SUCCESSFULL in getting them to turn on when the door is opened just like the factory unit (stays on with the timed illuminated entry delay feature too). Also did fully automatic headlamp control, looks/works like it came that way from the factory. Turns the lights off at dark (or when the windshield wipers are turned on) and keeps them on for 60 seconds after you turn the car off to illuminate your path to home.
  4. I mentioned earlier that I was going to have a padded leather glove box door pad made for my TC. I did. I installed it and here is a photo.
  5. I have a beautiful 1990 black TC which I have restorred/upgraded and now am going to address a small problem. Mostly for lack of anything else to do to this car. The leather seat surfaces to the bottom of both seats, it seems as though the previous owner replaced just the front leather section of both seats. Although the finish of the replaced black leather is still quite nice, I have noticed that the replaced sections have shrunk a bit and are not quite as glove-soft as the original leather in the rest of the seating areas. Anyone, especially a non-tc owner/fan looking at it would "never" notice (because they would not know how it was intended to look), but I do. I guess I will have both of them re-done and add new padding to both seat bottoms even in the on touched areas to make them look pillowy and new again. I was thinking to try to find near perfect factory used black leather seat bottom covers (which have not been previously repaired) so if anyone has some to sell I would love to hear about them. Seeing as this is unlikely since they are probably too old now and the owner may want too much $$$ to part with them, more likely I will have my upholstry shop owner "friend" replace just the troubled areas and re-stuff them too. I was thinking of using one of the new high grade syntheyic fake leather's that look/feel even better, are softer than leather and will be easy to clean and not shrink (just for that one front section of the bottom of each seat) Any thoughts on this? Has anyone here used this type of material instead of leather in a restoration of the seats project? BTW Just for fun, I am currently having a tasteful custom "cushioned geniune leather" pad made to cover the glove box door. It will be the same black matte color, finish and stitching as the rest of the dash. I think it will upgrade the look of the glove box to the georgeous look of the rest of the dash and WILL look like it came that way from the factory. LAST thing I will do is take the leather headrests from a 1988 or 1989 Chrysler New Yorker Landau, have them dyed/texturized to match and install them into the TC. They will fit as the mounting provisions are the same. They are larger, tilt/telescope and have a much more luxurious, slightly larger more rich/expensive padded (BUT "COMPATIBLE") look and I think will be wonderful. Our TC seats are "so beautiful" but when they got to the headrests I think they could have spent a few more munites/bucks stylizing them. Also, the New Yorker ones are larger and protrude outward tword the driver's neck/nape and would allow me to meerly tilt my head back and restfully enjoy the pillowy support while driving. Any feedback or leads to near perfect and affordable black seat bottom covers would be appreciated. Thanks, Srephen:)
  6. Hello, I always wanted to add a self dimming rearview mirror with compass, outside temp gague and maplights (this is a tricky one) that DO come on with the opening of the door to my TC. Now I did, I love it and thought I would share a link to what I bought. I know the seller Dave can get more and you can do this too. If you do buy one remember to ask him to switch the display filter to green to match the radio display or red if you want it to match the dash lights AND if you need help getting the map lights to come on with the door opened and the timed illuminated entry system write to me and I will explain how to do this so it is like it came from the factory with this installed from day 1. I also added automatic headlamps to my TC with a factory look switch and custom automatic headlamp sticker with TC logo sticker I had made. It looks/works like it was factory installed too. Here's the link to the mirror: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
  7. Bob, sorry for the delayed reply I was out of town. I am "assuming" that the mirror, temp, & compas functions work and the built in lights "DO" come on if you press the buttons, just "NOT" when the doors are opened (if this is "not" the case let me know and I will help you further). OK to make the lights built into a Gentex/Donnely mirror turn on with the doors opened you will need to understand that in the factory harness/plug tucked up in the header under the leather which went to the original mirror (which was a manual flip style with built in lights) had 3 leads suplying to the lights. 1= ground constant, 1= 12v positive constant and 1= a magic triggered ground suplied by a relay "ONLY" when the door is opened (and stays on for 30 +/-4 seconds through an illuminated entry timer) or when the headlamp knob is turned to turn on the interior lights (if none of the afformentiond variables exist for turning on the lights that triggered ground goes dormant and the lights go off as they should) That is the magic 3rd wire. (you may have used a new harness with your new mirror and bypassed that connector in the header, if so, it will need to be resurected to use that "one" magic triggered ground lead in your equasion) You can use a multimeter to figure out which is which or you can experiment with the old mirror you took off. When you figure out which wire that is; the "tricky part" is you have to figure out which pin on the NEW mirror is the ground trigger to turn on the maplights. Since you presumeably already know which pin on the new mirror is +, which is ground, which is ignition on +, which 2 are for the temp sensor you can experiment and apply ground to the remaining pins and see which one (it is a ground not a +) triggers on the maplights (there will be either 2 or 3 of either 6, 7 or 8 pins left, 1 will be a reverse trigger (rarely used) to clear the mirror in reverse) OR you can buy a new mirror through Dave on Ebay (and then sell your old one on ebay therefore lowering your total cost for the upgrade) where I got mine for $159 and it will come with a "NEW" labeled harness (with 6 ft leads) with that MAGIC ground labeled. Mine works flawlessly (Dave will even switch the filter color of the compass/temp display which comes blue standard to green to match the radio/clock illumination like I did for free or you can do red like the dash lights too) like it came from the factory with this OR you can contact Dave the seller. He is nice and helpful. He also makes NEW custom harnesses for existing mirrors people find in junk yards, etc. for around $30. You can send him the #'s engraved into "your" new mirror and detailed photos of it and with that, this guy is the mirror guru, he can identify what model it is exactly and make you a new harness with that magic triggered ground lead labeled and you can wire it in using the MAGIC ground suply from the original harness in the headder for the factory mirror (this is the best location for picking up that magic triggered ground because it will allow for the maplights to have that nice timed delay of the factory Illuminated Entry System) and you will be all set. Write back if you need any more help. I understand this feature very well and will help as needed. Good luck now here's the link to my mirror and Dave: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
  8. Hi, The problem with re-covering the arm rest comes with getting the little french pleats around the stitching to look good. "ALL" of the re-covered ones I have ever ever seen have a sort of flat look in the seams which does not look that nice (be it may it does look better than a riped one). To fix mine I had the existing worn/torn repaired (problems filled, sanded, re-textured and then re-dyed) and it looks just like it did when it came down the final assembly line in Italy. It has held up flawlessly for two years now not showing the slightest wear. Mine was done by Paul of Leathermenders in Austin, TX on Buell Ave. Paul is the owner there, Rapheal is his assistant (512) 453-9800. It was not a lot of money! When I saw the final product I thought it was a BARGAIN. Again, if you want the factory folds in the seam, then re-finish the original armrest if possible "not" replace. You will have a hard time replicating the delicate french pleats in the seam. Best wishes Stephen
  9. Hello, I will get one of these cup holders $50 on ebay. I see you dremmeled off the top plastic lip and holes. Any other advise for me? I like what you have done here. I have purchased the acrylic one that George makes and I love it. He makes a quality piece and is very kind in the sales process through ebay. It has been very helpful for years but I always wanted this type of cup holder and now I can have it thanks to you. Funny thing, I broke the expensive wood trim bezel when removing my radio to send for overhauling. I replaced it with a brand mint used one from Larry at TC parts.com. For some unknown reason I kept the old one and will use it to decorate the cup holder drawer front as you recommended. You are a genious! BTW I have added a self dimming automatic rearview mirror with compass and temp readout which DOES turn on the map lights built into the mirror unit when the doors open (there is a secret to make this work) and an automatic headlamp control with a factory look to it. Let me know if you want to know about these. Please reply with any additional hints or other customization you have done to the TC. Kind regards, Stephen
  10. You can send the LeBaron speedometer to Rick in Austin, TX 1 800 444 0292. He is very reasonable.
  11. Hi, Does anyone have any current photos of their 1989 Riviera's they can share interior as well as exterior. I used to have one and would love to see some well preserved car photos. I am thinking of how I can squeeze another car into my little collection and may begin hunting for either a near perfecr one, or one who's restoration I can handle. Seing the photos of the 89 again may be the motivation needed to jump start me. Thanks:)
  12. Years ago I had met a clever guy and his self-updated TC. He had cleverly removed all of the components of the automatic climate control system from a junked hign end Lebaron and very nicely installed them into his TC giving what looked like a factory installed automatic climate control system and it worked beautifuly. I have lost touch with him but wanted to see if anyone here on the forum has done this. I am just toying with the idea. I have a New Yorker Landau and am familiar enough with the automatic climate syetem within it (which I am certain is nearly identical to the Lebaron) and my local pick and pull has a LeBaron with the Auto Climate in it and I know if I oant to put in the time I can have all of it's components from this system for $100 (no guarantee every piece I would remove would work though). I am a bit afraid of starting this project because I know it COULD turn into a mess and wanted to hear any of your thoughts. Additionally, does anyone remember the Chrysler "Dealer Installed" Auto Climate Control (it was a dealer add on which added auto climate functionality to the standard system) available in dealers around 1990-1993? I remember for example that they were adding them to the Lebaron Landau sedans occasionally back then. It was a little black box with the Chrysler logo imprinted on it with a rotary knob with degree's on it which you rotated to the desired climate and it did the rest. The mount for it I remember was a black flexi goose neck and it held itself in whatever position you placed it. If someone knows how to find it (I have tried ebay and the local dealer with no success) I would to know. I would even love just the part number.
  13. I will clean that throttle body to start and if that does not help, then have the injectors looked at. I do not stop for a second before starting but will now. Thanks for the replies. Any proceedural hints on cleaning the throttle body?
  14. I have added this to my shopping list, but would LOVE to read it asap. If ANYONE has it in a e-mail'able file I would be so greatful for the preview. My e-mail address is stephenemirra@yahoo.com. Thanks, Stephen Austin, TX. :cool:
  15. When I try to start my 1990 TC with the 3.0 v6 engine "very HOT" (example like if it were turned off just 3-10 minutes ago after a long drive on a hot day), it takes a very extended crank or several tries, followed by sputtering and the need to slightly depress the accelerator to keep it running. A small amount of black smoke comes out of the exhaust while this is going on. It clears up within 10-15 seconds then runs/drives fine. The car starts perfectly with the motor cold or slightly/moderately warm. I suspect something in the engine/emissions electronics. ANY THOUGHTS? Has someone gone through this before?
  16. I wonder why they did not put a rear window defroster grid onto the rear glass of the soft top? Has anyone ever installed an aftermarket stick on grid onto theirs and made a wiring harness & plug with success? Just curious.
  17. These are hard to find in GUARANTEED WORKING CONDITION (guaranteed working is KEY). When I tried to find one 8 months ago, I got two $50 from the pick and pull junk yard, both had doa tape decks (which I need to have working to use the casette adapter to use my ipod), so I had to return them and get my money back. Most are just old and used and the tape players dead. I had to settle for the infinity radio which was from a 1990 Imperial (same but equalizer is mot the electronic led push button, on the newer ones there are 5 slide adjusters in the same location). I am vert pleased with mine $49 paid on an ebay auction that drew no other bidders but me. In my opinion, these are worth $75 to $150. They cost $295 to rebuild to be like new with warranty at two different factory radio rebuilders I called.
  18. I replaced the leaking at the seams muffler on my 90 TC (a mint condition toy I have fun restoring who lives in my garage) today with an aftermarket from Muffler King $95. It is the right length and size. The mechanic was kind enough to accept $20 extra to remove and attach the original mount from the old muffler to the new so it could utilize the more attractive original rubber hanger instead of the cheap looking aftermarket hanger they usually weld on to the car in place of it; and even cut off and welded the original factory dual stainless steel tail pipe onto the new muffler and got it hung at the right height and perfectly leveled. BUT now that this new metal muffler is there, it looks odd (really seems to stand out viseably against the black car) even though looks is the same as the old one. SO, I got out the factory brochure to see what it looked like new and in the brochure it is astually painted A GLEAMING BLACK. Now, my original one was silver metailc and so are all of the ones on Autotrader I viewed to compare. So WHAT DO YOU THINK? Do I get some shiny black engine block paint, mask up the tailpipe and spray it black? Has anyone done this to their car to downplay the look of the muffler? Or is this a silly waste of time and likely to look bad? Any thoughts or tips/suggestions? Stephen, Austin, TX BTW, for anyone who might care, the whole issue of the muffler needing to be changed came about when I told my mechanic about a sound similar to a plastic bag being thrashed around eminating from in under the car in back of the passenger seat/trunk / sounded like inside fuel tank area which I heard this morning for the very first time. When he told me it was a muffler which is in the very rear and the other side of the car I really thought he was wrong. The noise was a type he explained that was traveling as it caused the vibration and I actually had to bring it somewhere else because he does not do exhaust system work. I got the muffler changed and the noise went away 100%. Live and learn!
  19. Here are some photos of the A/C Control head removed from the vehicle. I have explained how to remove the faceplate to access the bulbs contained within it. Unfortunately they are not serviceable by a typical external twist type socked as mentioned twice in this thread (I wish they were) but this should help you understand what has to be done. The buttons on this are chromed as my original infinity radio died and I got a nice eq Infinity radio from a Imperial and it had chromed buttons, so to keep things consistant I put a chromed buttoned A/C controller. I know many would disagree with this choice but I like the look personally.
  20. IS THIS A 3.0 ENGINE? The engine is a zero-interference engine; that is if the timing belt breaks, no damage to the valves. You may not have done the damage you think! If you still have the car and the TIMING BELT WAS THE FAILURE the upper engine WOULD NOT have been ruined because of that (NOW I DO NOT KNOW YOU OR THE CAR AND THERE MAY BE SOME "OTHER" ISSUE GOING ON). Replace the belt (this is expensive bot not the $$ of a engine by any means). Here is a website to support my finding: Mitsubishi 3.0 liter V-6 engine
  21. The radio illumination is supposed to be blue-green (only the dash lights are red). This is the same color as the ac/heater illumination. 1. Remove the two screws on either side of the H shaped lower dash/storage bin trim piece (or CD player if your car has one) and gently pull it away 2. Remove the 2 screws holding the ac/radio wood trim and VERY VERY IMPORTANT pull the fan speed and temperature selector lever knobs off (this may be hard, if so, get a flat shoelace and sneak it in back of the lever and use it as noose and pull it straight out) 3. Remove the bolts holding the ac control panel and loosen it. 4. Examine it and you will see it is held together with tiny plastic tabs on the face portion securing it to the back portion (a very small screw driver can be used to undo each one one at a time) Kind of like taking the top off of a shoebox if the top was held on with little clasps/tabs around the lid) 5. Inside the cavity (inside the shoebox once you get the lid off) are the bulbs. With it all apart, go to Autozone, buy the bulbs and put them in while there to make sure they fit Good Luck!
  22. Funny that you mention this. Mine is the same. Sometimes when I start the car with the engine cold after sitting in the garage for days it will come on IMMEDIATLY. However some days it does NOT come on immediatly but comes on instead when the engine warms up. My temp gague will proceed to mid point, go SLIGHTLY higher then something seems to happen and it comes to slightly under mid point. It never goes much higher than that. I never have any problems at all. I did flush out my cooling system completely, and filled with good coolant plus a Prestone anti corrosion treatment AND a stop leak powder (there are no leaks but I believe in using this as a precaution/prevention to nightmares that creep up when you flush the old systems and perhaps a tiny weak spot develops, GM used to use this proceedure even in their new cars). The issue we seem to share seems common and harmless. I will continue to watch the posts here to see if any soultion or insight is offered.
  23. My 1990 TC had a non working odometer and trip odometer. I took it out (30 minutes) drove it over to Rick at Overseas Speedometer and picked it up the next day perfectly repaired (luckily for me I live in the same town that his business is located [actually he has a workshop in his house]). $125. I know you can UPS it to him and enclose a return UPS label to get it back to you and this whole problem WILL be solved in a few days. I drove mine with it out of the car and used my Garmin GPS to tell me how fast I was going. Speedometer & Odometer Repairs — Overseas Speedometer
  24. Ebay either side is available at the moment in nice condition for $179 buy it now and for even less in auction format. Honestly the ones that claim to have no cracks, pitting, etc. from reputable Ebay sellers should clean up well if cleaned and polished well prior to install. Thank goodness they are glass and not plastic so therefore will not get white-opaque or yellow like the plastic ones found even on the most expensive cars of today. I suppose they must have gone plastic to save on weight on newer cars. Anyway, $200 to $225 (to allow for shipping) is my take on a reasonable headlamp at the moment. Add a few bucks for the cleaning and polishing materials.
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