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About Irl

  • Birthday 12/09/1969

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  1. Sorry, didn't see your post about the missing tooth. Got mine from Moore's Auto Salvage in Rapid City, SD. They advertise in Hemmings, but I went there in person.
  2. Got the springs and shocks on the front. It sure rides a lot higher. I guess 58 years of weight made the old ones tired. New ones were actually shorter, so installation wasn't bad. Doing the rear ones next.
  3. Appreciate the input. Will clean up the spindles and check again. As for pics, I don't have much, but here's one of the car from a year ago before I got it. Most changes I've made can't be seen in anything new now anyway, except wheels, new grill tooth and hood ornament. Most work has been brakes and now suspension. Didn't think you wanted a pic of the kingpins.
  4. Thanks for the advice. I'm trying to make a driver. The front handled poorly on gravel roads to the point of being dangerous. And one front spring had 3 "spacers" or "fillers" in it. Based on the condition of the brakes (literally fell apart when drums taken off, e-brake stuck and driven by previous owner, destroying rear drums), I figured all the suspension should be replaced. Turned out the shocks were possibly good internally, but would not hold fluid. I've only worked on 1 old car, a 28 Model A. Just used to assuming everything is bad. But finding there is still a lot of life left in this 53.
  5. Got the front suspension off a 79,000 mile car. Replacing springs and shocks are spent. Looking at kingpins. 1 has no play at all, the other has very little (holding it in my hand). It had no noticeable play while on the car. I had almost the same play in new kingpins the time I had them done on a Model A. I am very rural (South Dakota) and 1 machine shop is backed up a month. Another says they'll give it a shot, but have never done kingpins before. Does the age and the little play warrant redoing? Or do I know what I got now and the chances of getting it worse in a re-do too great? Any help is appreciated.
  6. I will try this. I'm thinking it must go close to the inside (around the steering wheel nut) and leave the outside edge of the cup for connecting? Appreciate your help.
  7. Here's the "strap." Still looking for the spring part.
  8. 53 Buick Solid Spoke Steering, horn components help Anyone had experience with this? There are some missing pieces, that don't seem to be manufactured anymore. I believe I am missing: 1. some kind of spring under the horn cup (attaches to plastic steering wheel housing and pushes up the cup. 2. a strap that goes on top of the horn button piece connected to the wire. It is called a retainer in other horns, and might be a few pieces, a strap with a retainer on each side. Anyone have a pic on the missing parts or a lead? Have searched and called some. Any universal kit that will do the trick? The insides were all wrapped with electrical tape to keep the horn from activating all the time. Thanks.
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