broker-len

Plywood------thank you,,,,,,,,,,,,the silencer is held by a BOLT on the bell housing and over the manifold stud all the pipes are fixed there is no wiggle room and if you look at the picture I posted it would not make any difference ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,as the picture indicates this unit is made by burges not sure if it was the one that came on the car going to try spinny hill's suggestion it is interesting that no one has come forward and said they have one of these,,,,,,,, maybe non survived

Spinny Hill I do understand your reasoning and I will check if that joint is movable but all the joints are braised and don't want to butcher it up the silencer can not be moved also as I said because it bolts to the bell housing left bottom which prevents it from being swung out if that is your idea

Tom --none of the joints are able to pivot they are set there are two mounting points to the left at the bottom of can mounts to bell housing and one on the vertical tube mounts to a manifold stud there is no ability to change the position once it is bolted on I think spinny hill has the idea going to reverse the throttle arm I have seen a few pictures of this motor and this arm is straight don't know why mine is bent except maybe that was procedure to mount this unit I'm starting to feel it is pretty rare no one has seen it---- bu not sure if I will clear the cable but will give it a go right now have the bb1 in place the next project is to paint the wheels

Spinneyhill----------------you may have something found a picture of another PA motor and the accelerator rod is reversed I will try it but it seems the cable will still be a problem----------------------- thank you

did you sell the PA gas tank you had ?

As I said---------------------I had a PB air silencer I sold it it would not fit I have the one pictured I do have the early silencer as well but just trying to unlock the Question---------------why would chrysler put this picture in manual if it was not possible to install-------there is something I am missing-----------------------thank you for your help

I contacted Mcmulkin-------he told me he never saw one some one told me they went with the updated silencer because of fire due to motor backfire I did have a PB unit could not mount on my car if I remember it seems it hit the firewall at any rate I do have the early type of unit that I am running with a BB1 I also have a brass bowl but but I guess the search goes on as to why the unit will not fit maybe Lanny will run this post in the PLYMOUTH BULLETIN thank you all for your help

it is cool-----------------but can not put it on I studied the picture of carb it seems it would go on with out the cables am hoping some one can clear this up

See picture from owners manual PA second edition Dec 1931 my car is titled 32 so it may have come with the improved set up the problem I am having is when the cables and throttle arm are in place can not get the unit to fit

is there any one who has a 32 PA and is running the later AIR CLEANER SILENCER that comes up over the head please contact me at bobnroman@yahoo.com

E mail at------------------bobnroman@yahoo.com

are you talking about the piece that sits on the rear axle which joins the line coming from master to wheel cylinder lines ?

bobnroman@yahoo.com

so you are looking for a dealer name plate does it matter what name is on it ????? I have a few from my dad's dealership " ROMANO MOTORS" in woodbury NJ made of metal

sorry what are you looking for ????? be more clear

I just Googled hunly accuff and found his web sight what am I missing ?

I have a 36 plymouth and the boards look the same I have seen auctions on E bay for 36 Plymouth around $ 700.00 the ones on my car were done by Hunly in the 80s $ 400.00

the back plate and the way the cylinder and shoes may be attached could be different but again a visible inspection should tell you also if you NEED MORE BREAK maybe the 37 set up is not clean and tuned up as to work at its best check the master and wheel cylinders and condition of shoes and drum

10 years of advancement can involve considerable change if your asking about bolting on breaks from one year to another you should be able to get the answer by looking at both set ups-------if you are asking about retro fitting one set up on a different car,, why would you want to ? I understand why people put modern suspension on old cars----------------better ride and control but the switch you are talking about is not clear to me

I used the Hirsch sealant in the 70s and never had to redo it or had a problem

I have two 30s cars both my tanks seemed to in good shape do not remember why used HURST gas tank sealer white stuff about 25 years ago never had any issues

could you send a better picture of rear window your car may be a PA sent you a PM

I think I have one in NJ near Phila PA----------------------------bobnroman@yahoo.com

if you have to make the rod shorter why not put something like washers under the bolt just like cutting and shortening

thank you for all your response--------in my area seems about $ 90.00 a wheel-----------there is a restoration company near my house went to visit and ask about powder coating ---not in favor of it- !!!!!!!-----------------if you want to get it off to change color or chips big expensive deal and if it chips can not just fix it went to my garage and found my small tricon syphon sand blaster had some lose joints tightened them up blows much better buy play sand at home depot three bucks a bag think I will just clean wheel my self and and spray a good quality paint