Jump to content

shadetree77

Members
  • Posts

    2,095
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by shadetree77

  1. Well....sort of. After I put in the new mc rebuild kit the pedal no longer faded during the mc test and after bleeding some more I had a little more pedal than I started with. I also found a small leak under the car at the junction block where the two back lines split off which I fixed. After this, I adjusted my brakes out a little bit more and adjusted the pedal linkage out some and got it up to about half pedal which is enough to stop the car pretty well. Its far from perfect and I think I need to do some adjusting on my anchor pins in the near future which may just give me a full pedal. I'm currently re-building/replacing the gas tank and fuel system so the brakes are on the back burner for the moment. The guy I bought it from apparently never drained the old gas out before he dumped some new fuel in and started it up after it sat for 30-40 years because the gas I got out of this tank was the color of sorghum molasses!! I can't believe the old girl was actually running on that crap! It finally caught up to her though. My fuel lines are completely clogged. Dropping the gas tank tomorrow to see if it's salvageable. Anyway, I'll check back when I make those anchor pin adjustments to let you know how it went.
  2. Ok, sorry for the long delay but it took an incredibly long time to get my new rebuild kit in the mail. Anyway, so today I rebuilt the master cylinder with my new kit and bench bled it. I put it back on the car and did the test where you plug the outlet again. This time the pedal was firm and high and did NOT fade at all. So the MC is fine and is officially ruled out as the problem. I put everything back together and bled all the lines. I got good pressure at all cylinders and I bled and bled way past the point where I stopped getting air. I also jacked the car up and followed EVERY single line from MC to wheel cylinders checking for leaks/holes and tightening and double checking every hose and fitting along the way. No leaks. Also checked the adjustment on the wheels. When I turn the wheels by hand I can hear the brakes lightly rubbing drums. I put the car down and checked the brakes....not much of an improvement.:mad: The brakes still go down way too far for comfort before they begin to catch. I'd say somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 of the way down. I'm really at a loss here. I did notice something kind of strange today though. I had my dad get in the car and press the brake pedal(wheels off the ground) while I tried to turn the tires by hand. The tires had a bit of play in them even with the brake pedal pushed. I could maybe turn them about an inch in either direction before they caught and would not move. The thing is, when they reached the point where they caught my dad says the brake pedal dropped a good inch or so. ????? I've never heard of this happening. Could this be a symptom of some kind of problem? Should I have any play at all in the wheels when the brake pedal is pushed? By the way, this also happens when you put the car in gear. When the trans. kicks into gear it jerks the car a bit and I guess that moves the wheel a little and the brake pedal drops just as described above. Anybody ever heard of this?
  3. Another update from my battle with the Buick! Over the weekend I tried the MC test where you plug the outlet and check it with the pedal. Pedal was firm and high.....for about 10 seconds before it began to fade all the way to the floor. Soooooo....I've ordered another MC rebuild kit from a place that should have better knowledge of what I need than the place I ordered the first kit from(especially seeing as how this first place also sent me the wrong brake shoes the first time through). Someone earlier on in this thread suggested that I might have gotten the wrong rebuild kit and, while the kit I got seemed to fit in the bore snugly, maybe its slightly off causing the MC to bypass fluid. So it will take a few days to get here and at that point I'll remove the master cylinder for about the 4th time I think and rebuild it for the 3rd time. At least I have finally narrowed my problem down to the MC. If this doesn't work I guess I'll spend the $135.00 on a new one. In the meantime, keep the suggestions coming as I'm willing to give just about anything a try to get these brakes working! Thanks again to everyone who has offered up some insight. DING DING DING!!! ROUND 27!!!
  4. So I was messing around with these brakes again today and I decided to pull the old shoes out that came off the car and check them out. They are worn pretty unevenly. They are worn a lot more at the top than they are at the bottom. Could this indicate a problem with my anchor pins as discussed above? I've included a pic of the old shoes so everyone can see the uneven wear. Would an anchor pin problem cause my pedal to go all the way to the floor and not pump up though? I cannot get the pedal to pump up at all no matter how fast I pump it. Also, several members have mentioned that there might be a mistake in the MC rebuild. I have included a picture of the internal components exactly how I have installed them on the MC. I pulled them out and took a picture just as they came out. If anybody sees a mistake please let me know. Next step is to plug the outlet on the MC and see if the pedal pumps up. After that, its off to a mechanic because I am absolutely out of ideas!!!
  5. The stream of fluid looked to be plenty strong and continuous while bench bleeding. I didn't put a block-off plug in it but that might be something I'll try eventually as I read that you can do that while the MC is on the car and use the pedal to check it. Also, you mentioned that the primary cup might be on backwards but I checked it and compared it to the service manual pictures several times and it is in the right position. Everything seems to be in order with the MC(all parts in right positions and all ports clean and clear)but still no brakes. Ahhh well, the fight continues tomorrow. Gonna bleed and adjust some more and hope for a miracle! Thanks for all the suggestions and I'll keep everyone updated. If anyone has more suggestions please feel free to chime in. Any and all help is much appreciated.
  6. Well, the order you describe is also what I was taught but in the 52 buick service manual it tells you to do the exact opposite and start with the wheel closest to the MC. I didn't believe it at first but I read it over and over and that's what it says so that's how I've been doing it. And I've got plenty of pressure at the wheel cylinders while bleeding.
  7. Ok. just got back from another unsuccessful round with these brakes. Took the MC off, took it apart and cleaned it out til you could eat out of it. Vent holes in filler cap are clear as are the two holes inside the reservoir(one tiny the other bigger). I double checked internal components to make sure I put them back in correctly and they are fitting snugly in the bore. I bench bled it and put it back on the car and bled all wheels til there was no air......nothing. No change at all. So, where is this compensating port? By "under the master cylinder" do u mean its actually outside of the MC? If you are referring to one of the two holes inside the reservoir those r clean. Arrrrgggghhh.
  8. Well I've tried two methods. I did the pump with a helper and then tried the method where you put a piece of clear tubing on the bleeder screw put the other end in a bottle with some fluid in it and slowly pump til there are no bubbles in the tube. I've lost count of how many bleeding sessions I've done. I might have to look into that harbor freight bleeder. Just out of curiosity, does your mc have the gasket on the filler cap that it shows in the service manual?
  9. Ok, I have a 52 special that I just bought. The car basically had no brakes. If you pushed the pedal all the way to the floor it would slowly roll to a stop. So I have rebuilt the entire brake system. Put a rebuild kit in master cylinder, 4 new wheel cylinders, new rubber hoses, new shoes, and new springs. I have taken all of the junction/distributor blocks off and cleaned them as well. I have bled the brakes what seems like 100 times. I have adjusted the shoes out til they rub lightly on the drums. I have adjusted the pedal linkage. I also cleaned the master cylinder cap as I read somwhere that the vent holes being clogged could lead to bad brakes. There are no fluid leaks that I can see. All this and I am STILL at square one. The brakes are the same as they were before I started all of this! The pedal is soft and goes all the way to the floor before the brakes lightly kick in. I just don't get it! I really don't want to send her to a mechanic but I just don't know what else could be wrong. I just read in the buick service manual that there is a gasket that goes on the screw-in cap for the master cylinder. Mine does not have a gasket. Is this little gasket that important? Does anyone else have a similar master cylinder that does have this gasket? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I just want to drive(and stop) my Buick!!
  10. I've got a 52 Special that does not have turn signals. I bought an aftermarket turn signal setup for temporary use until I can find some stock parts. The directions say I need to have a flasher relay. I know the flasher relay that came in these cars was a 6 volt. My car has been changed over to 12 volt. So my question is can I use the 6 volt relay anyway or do I need to find a 12 volt relay? I know that some of the 6 volt relays can handle the 12 volts as they are rated for much higher than 6 volts but I'm not sure about the flasher. Also, if I need a 12 volt relay for this car, where can I get one? I've searched all over the net and I can only find the 6 volt relay. Thanks. Rob
  11. Well, from what I saw the barn probably hasn't been waterproof for quite some time. Lot's of holes and tin missing on the roof so I'm sure it got wet occasionally.
  12. Thanks for all the advice guys. I am glad to be here. The 52 is my first project older than the 70's so I don't have a lot of experience with these older classics. Guess you could say this has been quite a learning experience but I am enjoying every minute of it. As for the tires, I just bought the 52 Special Deluxe and it's "barn find fresh" for the moment and I'm looking to buy some used tires just for now so I can drive her up and down the road a little bit during the restoration process. Eventually I will look into getting some reproduction tires but for now I just need some old daily drivers in a new size for cheap. Think I'm gonna try to find some 215/75's. It's mostly got 235's on it now and even jacking it up from the frame it's still almost impossible to get them out from under the back end. I guess you could consider this my introduction to the forum so I'll give you a little background on my 52 and a few pictures. I've been looking for a 51 or 52 for awhile and I found this one on Craigslist a few weeks ago. It came from a wealthy family in North Georgia. The guy I bought it from said his grandpa bought it new, drove it for a few years then parked it in their barn when he bought a new one. There it sat untouched until about 6 years ago when the grandson got it out, fiddled with the motor, and got it started. He also managed to put 3 different size tires and one hell of a hack job 12v conversion on it then parked it back in the barn. He decided to sell it and I was the first one to look at it. It's completely untouched and original(except for the 12v hack job!)and amazingly the old straight 8 runs like a dream. No smoke, no leaks, and it fires up on the first try. Now if I could just get her to stop! I'm currently rebuilding the brake system. Anyway, that's my story and again, I'm glad to be here.
  13. I just bought a 52 Special Deluxe and it needs new tires. Currently it has 3 different tire sizes on it and all of them are too tall/wide. I can barely get the back tires out from under the fenders. The original spare was in the trunk and it is a 7.60x15. What size does this equate to in a new tire?
×
×
  • Create New...