zagato
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Everything posted by zagato
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Does anyone know where I can get an ASD (automatic shutdown) relay for a 1989 DOHC?
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Hi Ronnie, You are not butting in. I appreciate the input. I don't know to make the pump run continuously. The TC has a schrader valve on the fuel rail and I have checked to see that I have fuel running to that point.
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Well when it comes to the TC I have a moderate level of competence. When I was young I was an A6 Intruder technician, but that was years ago. I don't believe I have any spark. I will look at replacing the HEP, I am just puzzled at why I had ignition prior to replacing the fuel lines and the distributor, rotor and wires.
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The fuel pump prime does run and there is a click from the ASD.
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It was built in Feb 89 and has an uncommon block. The SMEC is probably an 89. The car ran ok before I replaced the fuel lines etc. I have not heard the fuel pump prime when I turn it to the run position, but it is a new fuel pump that worked fine before the lines were replaced. I will have to check for the ASD sound.
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My 16 valve will crank, but not start. It ran before I replaced the fuel lines with new ones and also replaced the distributor cap with a new one along with the coil wire and the plug wires I got from Rick Diogo. The fuel pump was already replaced a few months back. Any suggestions as to where I should check for the non starting problem?
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Could someone please give me the torque spec for the 16 valve engine cover nuts?
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I am having a problem with my heater/ac controls. When selecting the control buttons it does not matter whether the vent, floor or defroster is selected. The air mostly comes out of the defroster and a bit out of the heater regardless but not the vents. I suspect it is a vacuum problem. Can anyone suggest where to start?
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Go to white gauges on the internet to get the yellow overlays.
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I bought another TC, this one a low mileage 16V out of Atlanta. My last TC was a V6 and my experience with the 16 valve is nil. I have the Chrysler dealer repair manual, for the TC, but it does not specify how to gain access to the distributor. Can anyone share some information on this? I also want to put new plugs in it and it appears that the valve cover gasket should be replaced as I noticed a small amount of engine oil at the bottom of each spark plug as they sit before being removed. Which brings up another question; what size socket is needed for the spark plug?
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Hi Guys, The wrecked TC you see posted recently from Richmond, VA was totaled by me in December. Please remove vin ZC2FS1204LB206173 from the roster of survivors.
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Thanks Hemi.
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Hi Hemi, I obtained a Reatta pressure switch from a supplier suggested by TC parts. The Reatta switch came with a matching plug that needs to be wired into the TC system. The Reatta plug has splines instead of pins like the TC and the pattern is different. I obtained a wiring diagram from the Reatta blog. If you could send me the TC wiring diagram that would be great.
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Barney and Ronnie, thanks very much for the info. I have a TC maintenance manual with the wiring schematic. I really appreciate the input. I will have the mechanic work on this. I would like to keep the Teves system, but it is a challenge.
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Hi Guys. I am not a Reatta owner, but I do own a TC and I am looking for help with the brake pressure switch connection. Last fall I experienced a antilock brake failure on the Teves system. Since then I replaced the accumulator and obtained a NOS brake pressure switch for the Teves II system. TC Parts directed me to a supplier for Buick Reatta parts in order to get this switch. Before the switch was replaced the brake pump would run and cycle, however the antilock brake light was still illuminated after replacement of the accumulator. The Reatta parts suppler also sent along a plug that would compatible with the current TC Maserati connection, however the wiring designation for the TC plug is different from that for the Reatta plug. We initially supposed the A,B,C,E wire designation for the Reatta plug corresponded directly to the 1,2,3,4 of the TC plug, i.e. 1 would match with A, 2 would match with B etc. Well this obviously is not correct as now the pump will not run and cycle. How does the wiring designation correspond for utilizing the Reatta switch wiring to the TC plug? Can anyone help with this?
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Last fall I experienced a antilock brake failure on the Teves system. Since then I replaced the accumulator and obtained a NOS brake pressure switch for the Teves II system. TC Parts directed me to a supplier for Buick Reatta parts in order to get this switch. Before the switch was replaced the brake pump would run and cycle, however the antilock brake light was still illuminated after replacement of the accumulator. The Reatta parts suppler also sent along a plug that would compatible with the current TC Maserati connection, however the wiring designation for the TC plug is different from that for the Reatta plug. We initially supposed the A,B,C,E wire designation for the Reatta plug corresponded directly to the 1,2,3,4 of the TC plug, i.e. 1 would match with A, 2 would match with B etc. Well this obviously is not correct as now the pump will not run and cycle. How does the wiring designation correspond for utilizing the Reatta switch wiring to the TC plug? Can anyone help with this? The Reatta switch has splines and the TC switch has pins. Please see photo.
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I suppose I was a fool as I forgot today was April Fool's Day!
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Thanks Reaper
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Hi Hemi, Do you have any idea where I can get the pressure switch? TC parts will only sell to a rebuilder of the entire system. They told me that some GM models used a similar switch, but did not specify which models.
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Guys, I recently replaced the accumulator on my brake system and bled the brakes without issue thanks to input from Hemi. There was a lot of air in the lines, especially from the rear brakes. I no longer have a "hard pedal", but something is not right. The brake pump now runs continually and does not shut off. Could it be the pressure switch? I would appreciate any suggestions.
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I do have the shop manual for the 1990 TC. I will take your advice on bleeding the brake system and using the screwdriver to locate the humming. Thanks again.
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Thanks Hemi, the accumulator came off like a charm. Once I replaced it the "hard pedal" problem went away but the red brake light is still lit and I notice there is a low humming sound after the brake pump shuts off within a few seconds. The humming sound persists until I start the engine after which I wouldn't be able to detect the humming over the engine running. The pedal is not "hard" but will occasionally have a momentary vibration feel and the brake reservoir appears to have a little more fluid in it than before the accumulator replacement. Bill
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Hi Guys, I am replacing my old brake accumulator with a new one. The old one appears to be frozen on the stalk and I am afraid I will end up stripping the 8mm female allen wrench socket on top of the accumulator. Does anybody have suggestions on how to proceed? Bill
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Thanks Hemi, it was the AIS!