Deanoko

This is a full size clay mockup done by Harley Earle's shop. To me, it's got a LOT of Riviera in it!

What is a "Baby" Grand Sport?

No, the switch moves freely, clicking through the settings. It just doesn't actuate the blower motor.

Oh, OK Thanks for saving me from going down the wrong rabbit hole.

I haven't pulled the lever knobs off to access behind the face plate yet. Maybe something physical will present itself then. They all traverse freely enough for 59 year old mechanicals.

Excellent info Tom. I need to digest it all, and revisit my wall size wiring diagram. Thanks!

Yeah. I'm looking at those resources. The thread title said '64... I blew up a wiring diagram to 2'x3' and have it hanging on my wall. My system has 2 fan switches, but the wiring diagram only shows 1. Hmm.

I just had a really knowledgeable mech friend evacuate and charge the AC system with 134a. It's blowing cold, however the AC blower fan switch is inop, but I can use the heater fan switch (with other heater controls off to get the vacuum door logic to work) as a backup. Other than the actual component switch being bad, does anyone have any other ideas? Also, are the 2 switches the same or specific? Do they command the same actual fan speeds in either AC or heater mode? I don't get why there are 2 switches in the first place! Thanks!

My last photo taken from the driving position shows a magnetic flashlight sticking out from the body. That's the bright light if you zoom in on the mirror. Pictured here:

I think the viewing angle becomes problematic there, since the angle of viewing would move away from the car the further back you move it. Draw a pencil line on paper with the incoming and outgoing angles being equal to give you an idea. You'd have to really cant the mirror head toward you to get any possible good view.

That's why I did the mockup with a convex mirror. I works fine!! I don't know why anyone would mount it in mirror image placement to the LH side and expect it to be usable.

So... Progress I have mocked up a RH remote that I can see out of. The base is taped in place for positioning. I moved the leading edge of the mirror base back 2" from the LH side. 3½" as opposed to 1½". I checked the swing of the power vent to make sure they don't interfere. I'm using a 4⅛" convex mirror from a 1955-7 RH mirror. Just the glass. The Riviera mirror head I'm using is reversible (and also the same as Pontiac EXCEPT for the rubber base gasket.) Based on my mockup I will be able to see just fine out of it and the difference innthe mounting would only be noticed under close scrutiny.

It's not hard to pull the unit apart and clean it. 99% sure the grease has hardened and bound things up. I don't think squirting lubricant inside will free up anything.

I have this piece and had it in place with the seat out of the car, but took all the outer trims off before reinstalling the sest for fear of breaking them in the process. Then I couldn't remember where it went. I see now that the manual passenger seat mounts are less incumbered and therefore look longer.

I've FINALLY gotten comfortable with the process and maybe that's just because the seat has been in and out several times and isn't so "stuck in its ways". A shove on the bottom of the front face, midway across the footwell, to the rear, with a slight upward action, should pop each side out from under the overhang on the floor pan. You are just moving the heavy wire rod seat bottom frame out from under a rearward facing upsidedown L bracket. The seat will pop up a bit when that happens.

I was talking about the # of bolts holding the seat to the floor pan, not the # of trim attachment points. However, now that I see this photo, it looks to be the same except for the height of the rear anchors. To me they still look a lot shorter.

Then how about the mounts? I repeat that my outboard rear does not match that pictured. I have not located my tranny rebuild upside down photo yet. I'm looking.

I have 5 of the 6 trims. My "feet" are nowhere near as tall as the ones pictured in white. *(See below) In the photos there are 4 bolts holes on the outboard rear. My seat only has 2. The car is a 1 owner original prior to my ownership. I have had the seat out recently to facilitate work under the dash. *The other possible explanation is that the standard interior seat travels up higher than my optional one, but that seems unlikely. I have a photo somewhere of the seat out and upside down, as I was rebuilding the transmission. I will try to provide it.

My mounts are different. The outboard only has a single bolt on either side and the supports don't appear to be as tall. This shit is with the seat all the way up. I guess I am missing lowers not uppers.

Thanks to both of you guys! Clears up this mystery. The seat in the photos has a lot higher base mounting than mine do. What are they in? I see the joystick here is on the seat. Mine is on the deluxe trim door panel. I am missing the "uppers" . Probably broken off long ago. I can see the fastener holes but didn't know what went there.

'64 here, but probably the same for other years: There are little sheet metal screws that hold the plastic trims on the bottoms of the bucket seats, hiding the 4 way electric track hardware. I have 1 original(?) screw that threads readily into the metal frame of the seat. It looks like a typical pan head phillips #6 sheet metal screw, BUT the thread pitch is less than what I've found at the hardware store. Those don't work and #8s are too big. Am I crazy, or is this actually a machine screw hole that the one sheet metal screw I have just happens to also thread into? TIA!

Torque everything to spec and in order. You'll be fine.

A well optioned 64:

Mid-century house, meet Mid-century car:

I will have a look at the black connector. The end of the light blue wire is different from the others, being a flat micro blade male style. Thanks!