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mt65riv

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Everything posted by mt65riv

  1. The sheet should show all the options the car came with. Check out this site for ideas on how to find your ratio. What's My Gear Ratio? Mike
  2. That's cool, Dale. Don't you love it when people work on something like your diff, or a carb or tranny, and put the id tags back on them? Have you found the build sheet?
  3. BJW, aren't you just a few hundred miles away? Should be worth the trip. Just offer to buy the parts per pound plus a little for his trouble and you should be able to get enough of the good pieces.
  4. $1500 for a car and two parts cars. Unfortunately that is about what they are worth as scrap. Can someone save them? At least buy them, get all the good parts and scrap the junk. I'm picking my parts car cleaner than a Thanksgiving day turkey. Oui, oui BTW.
  5. I just noticed this in this month's Hot Rod Mag and found this blog on the web. A 2,000hp LSX Turbo on gasoline! This thing is sick! Should be the coolest car at Bonneville. WOW! HEMI Under Class – Update | FSC Blog
  6. It appears that your cars are both LHD. I thought that Australia had strict rules about RHD only. Is it because they are collector cars ( both are beautiful, by the way )?
  7. Are the screws just loose or are the mounting holes stripped? I don't remember if they screw into plastic or capture nuts. If it is in plastic and they are stripped, I have fixed that by removing the screws and putting glue into the holes, then re-drilling the holes. I hope you can get it fixed. The '65 clamshells are motorized with mechanical linkage. The problem is that the motor goes out. I have seen an actuator ram used and it looks like a great update - probably what I'll do for mine.
  8. Was this a popular upgrade in the '70s? My deluxe parts car that sat in a field since the latre '70s has discs and a dual master cyl. I assume it came from a newer full size Buick. Someone wanted it to stop.
  9. Here's the youtube link They made it to LA. Watch all the videos, it's pretty funny and cool.
  10. Anyone watching Freiburger drive the Buick convertible that sat since 1978 from Phoenix to LA? It's on Hot Rod .com and he's got a glympse page that you can follow viz his GPS. Pretty cool.
  11. Good luck! This is the fun part. Don't sweat the little stuff right now. I'm happy for you.
  12. Could be, I suppose. I'd pull the arm rest and test the window with a good 12v source directly to the motor. That will tell you a load of info. I just pulled my rear driver's side mechanism and it was a PITA. I then got the 1965 body manual. It makes it much easier to do when they tell you all the tricks to getting one out. Now I have to put it back in...
  13. Here's the finished wheel. I used a 2K primer and sanded it like any body work. 2 passes were enough. I did use some Icing (polyester filler) to fill in any minor imperfections that were missed with the first filler. Fill and sand, fill and sand. I sprayed it a VW color - Silver Arrow - and cleared it with a flat clear. I think I am going to do a black and silver interior if I can get the silver in a '65 pattern. I know it is a '64 color. I really liked a '64 that I saw that was black exterior and silver interior. Anyway, I need to do all the plastic trim on the interior that is tan now and I don't want it to look too shiny. The wheel feels great. If you look real close, you can tell that the center arm has a little more character than it should (a little more curvy). I'll post a shot when I get it installed with the horn bar. It's a little too soft to mess with right now.
  14. Brian, Is the inside door lock hard to move up and down? If it works well, without feeling hard to pull or push, it's probably a problem in the lock mechanism and the above treatments should cure it. I have my door skin off and snapped a shot of the mechanism. There are about 7 points where the lever makes contact and should be lubed. If the inside lock pull is difficult, then the problem is probably in the mechanism itself. Pulling the door skin isn't hard, but it would be easy to scratch the paint. I used a thin putty knife between the door skin and the frame on a few of the bolts that were spinning and not coming loose. Put the knife in and push lightly to pry the panel away from the frame while loosening the nuts. It worked on all the ones that were problems. The middle one in the front is the worst to get to. Put a couple layers of blue tape on the front fender to protect the paint. Take your time.
  15. Good info, RivNut. So the four notes are F, A, C, and D? I have a few sets of horns that I have collected over the years and they all have the markings on them like that. The thing I was wondering is if there are low and hi notes of each or is an F an F? Also, on the door bolts, has anyone made their own? Maybe out of stainless? The problem I have seen with mine is rust and damaging the skin when trying to remove them. Would you put anti-seize on them to help with rust? Half the nuts are regular and the rest are acorn. As far as securing them in the panel, it looks like the windshield 'tape' ( the tar stuff ) would work. That is what was in mine. Let us know what you find out, Aaron.
  16. This is how I fixed my aged and cracked steering wheel. This is the first time I’ve attempted to restore one. Having seen several wheels restored on the HAMB, I was thinking that this would be totally different because it’s plastic, not acrylic (or whatever older wheels were made of) and wasn’t sure what I would use to fix it. The epoxy like JB seemed too hard and might have issues bonding to the soft plastic. Then I remembered fixing the rear bumper on my ’95 Roadmaster Wagon with a plastic ‘bondo’ that was flexible and bonded very well. So I am doing the same fix here. The first thing to do was to de-grease the wheel. I used quick-prep but denatured alcohol should work just as well. You can see that the wheel had come apart at the center pretty bad. I sanded under the part that is lifted to get all the rust and scale off, then quick cleaned it. I put a bunch of the filler into the gap and clamped it down to hold it tight until the filler hardened. <a href=" " title="whl001 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5228/5678403006_977ae1598d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl001"></a> <a href=" " title="whl002 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5308/5678403010_a89bc6563c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl002"></a> Each end of the center bar looked like this. <a href=" " title="whl004 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5107/5678403026_55eac15775.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl004"></a> <a href=" " title="whl005 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5070/5678403034_a127bc47ec.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl005"></a> All three of the pin holes on the rim cracked as well. <a href=" " title="whl003 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5263/5678403014_ced206cb68.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl003"></a> This is the filler that I used. <a href=" " title="whl006 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5148/5678403046_ec9edacede.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl006"></a> I forgot to get shots of sanding and opening the cracks. Basically I used 120 grit sandpaper to rough up the finish. The cracks were opened up with sandpaper, an air grinder, and a razor blade. After the first sanding I blew the dust off and cleaned it again with the quick clean. Here’s the end of one of the arms after the first pass of filler. <a href=" " title="whl007 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5143/5678410354_2633cf8108.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl007"></a> The lower portion. <a href=" " title="whl008 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5269/5678410368_298976a949.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl008"></a> The upper portion. <a href=" " title="whl009 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5021/5678410372_a5efc3e567.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl009"></a> After second fill and sand with 180 grit. <a href=" " title="whl010 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/5678410382_9805dbc985.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl010"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mt94ss/5678410386/" title="whl011 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5068/5678410386_b057694240.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl011"></a> Then I used plastic primer / adhesion promoter. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mt94ss/5678410394/" title="whl012 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5310/5678410394_4ab0fdafca.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl012"></a> To get to here so far. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mt94ss/5678412518/" title="whl013 by mt94ss, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5101/5678412518_c8d1556d88.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="whl013"></a> I’ll get some more sandable primer and shoot it with a couple three coats and see what it looks like. I haven’t decided what color I am going to do the interior in, but It will probably be black. I know that I don’t really care for a full gloss on the interior trim like the wheel and console so I’ll finish the color with a semi-flat clear. More photos when the next steps are done.
  17. If I knew how, I'd help too. What I would is kinda what you are already doing. Break everything down into systems. First, check to see if the basic bezels and trim pieces are the same (measurements, screw locations, etc.) then check out each item in the panels to see if there are any differences with functions or (like your fuel sender) electrics. I had a '63 a long time ago and I don't recall all the features. They all look very similar. Good luck. I, too, like the '64 dash and would put on in my '65 if I had one. You aren't doing this to a real GS, are you? The main thing I would worry about with that is value of the GS afterwards. I think stock is best on those. :cool: I've seen customized stuff done to rare cars that just plain ruin their value.
  18. Len, Sounds like we're heading in the same direction. I am starting with lowered springs. I'll see how I like the ride. I would like the sway bars so I'll be watching to see how your's goes. Kinda the best of both worlds, huh? Adjustable suspension and handling. Mike
  19. Great post, Len. A picture is truly worth a thousand words. Can you show us a shot when installed? Is you suspension at stock height?
  20. One of my '65's has wheels like those. I was told that it had wheel covers not center dog dish caps. I haven't seen Buick dog dish caps for Rivis. Are there some?
  21. I saw a rebuild kit from OPGI, the mast and cord for about $175. I would guess that yours could be fixed. I'm in the same boat. Both of the ones that I have are like yours. Good luck. Hopefully John can help you out.
  22. Great! Look like a good catch! Should be a fun car.
  23. What! 5 hours and no update... the nerve!
  24. Brian, Good questions. The rears should be fine. I have run 255's on stock wheels in the rear with no problem. The thing to consider with 70's in the rear and 60's in the front: the rears would have to be about 2 sizes bigger than front to look right. Check with a tire calculator ( Tire size calculator ). The rears would look skinnier even though they have the same 225 width. Usually I ran 60's in the rear and 70's in the front. Maye 235 or bigger 60's in the rear and 215 or 225 70's in the front Trying to keep the diameters equal front and rear (see calc). The best thing to do would be to run the 225's and get 1" or 2" lowering springs if you want the nose down look. You don't sacrifice ride and you can still rotate the tires. Wires on Rivis have always looked cool! If I could afford them, they would be on my car. Your a lucky dude!
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