Jump to content

mt65riv

Members
  • Posts

    270
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mt65riv

  1. Manny,

     

    I used the Scarebird kit for mine.  The main reason that I decided to do the kit was brake fade on the hills around here.  I also switched to a dual MC.  That does require some fabrication of brake lines and it is pretty tight around the MC.

     

    The Scarebird kit uses all stock GM parts and they list all of the part numbers.  Makes maintenance a breeze as it's not some custom part that you would have to order from the manufacturer.

     

    Regards,

     

    Mike

     

  2. OK, so I found a guy that knows of which he speaks...  I got a Raybestos MC #MC39018 that will mount to the stock '65 booster ( it is setup for the long '65 plunger ) and is for front disc/rear drum.  So I can keep my original booster that is working fine and continue with the Sacrebird conversion.  The only other thing besides making my brake lines is a universal proportioning valve ( the dial kind ) on the rear drums so I can dial in the balance.

     

    This is the MC I got:  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/agb-mc39018

     

    The guy that I got all the information from is Booster Dewey at Power Brake Booster Exchange, 4331 SE 63rd Ave., Portland, OR  97206  503.238.8882.  He knows his stuff and rebuilds stock boosters for anything.  The shop that is behind his house is impressive.  I have a friend who is into older Chevys that has used him for a bunch of boosters.   I would recommend him if you need a stock one rebuilt.  Super nice guy.  Google him and you will be impressed.

    • Like 1
  3. To be clear, a '67 drum/drum MC will work on a '65 drum/drum and make it a dual circuit.  There doesn't seem to be a dual MC disc/drum that fits the deep '65 Riviera booster.  The '76 that you got will bolt directly to the '65 firewall and pedals, right?  If so, that is what I will get.

     

    Thanks

     

    Mike

  4. Ed,  All of the boosters listed at NAPA and Rockauto show disc/drum MCs as shallow and drums as deep.  Do you know a part number for a disc/drum MC that is deep?  I can replace the whole thing with a '76 Riviera booster/MC that is disc/drum for about $120.  The OPGI is $330.

     

    Thanks.

     

    Mike

  5. I have searched here and on the web but can't find a definitive answer.  I would rather keep my stock booster as it is fine and use an OE style master cylinder.  I know there are aftermarket units with boosters and prop valves.

     

    The Scarebird kit that I got listed all the parts to add the discs to the front of my '65 and that is fine.  Napa had them all no problem.  On the Scarebird instructions they recommend a 71-76 Riviera MC but that has a shallow plunger and the old single unit on my car is about 1 1/2" deep.  I checked with NAPA and the only ones they had for GM in the '70's with Disc/Drum were shallow.  Is it possible to shorten the booster plunger?

     

    Anyone do this conversion with stock parts?  Am I stuck getting an aftermarket unit?

     

    Thanks!

     

    Mike

     

  6. I tried a couple more times with the ones I had on it and gave up.  I have a couple more cars so I took some off one of the other cars that looked straighter, actually they looked perfect, and put them on.  So far no leaks.  One thing that I noticed was the holes where the bolts go through were bent (divoted inward) compared to the other ones even though they looked fine by themselves.  I was thinking that this might have had something to do with it.  I glued the gaskets to the valve covers just to make sure that they would not scootch out when clamped.  Drove it around for a few minutes tonight and burned off the oil that leaked before and they seem OK.  We will see after the cruise tomorrow.  Wish me luck.

     

    Tom, I was beginning to think that it might be something like that, still may be but the oil is dripping down into the spark plug area and the head gaskets are below that.  If it seeps from the head gaskets it would be below the exhaust and just down the side of the block, right?

     

    Thanks everyone,

     

    Mike

  7. Got my Rivi running/driving after a 4-year hibernation.  It is great but I am having an issue that is driving me nuts!

     

    Anyone have a sure fire way of sealing the valve covers?  I got my Rivi running and it is running/driving excellent but the valve covers wont stop leaking.  I have a couple sets so I took the best ones and made sure that the surface for the gasket was clean and straight.  I used the rubber type and they are leaking between the head and the gasket on the outside/rear on both sides.  Oil on the heads and exhaust isn't pleasant. 

     

    Gluing them to the valve covers would not make a difference here.  I did see a post where cork gaskets were preferred but I have never had good luck with cork on any engine.

     

    Any ideas?

     

    Thanks! 

     

    Mike

  8. Sounds like you have an opportunity for a small business.  I need one for my '65 and I'm sure more people will pop in and see this thread and have a need.  Save an original tracing and have some made.  I know I'd pay to have one.  Don't have any Rivi baubles though. :)

     

    Mike

  9. I was thinking of doing deluxe panels too as I have most of the pieces but my car was a standard and I think they will be easier to make myself. I did have to get the square chrome piece for each door and the arm rests and switches as my car came minus the panels. I got them from a Riviera guy on FB. The one thing that I did have from one of my parts cars is the metal piece that makes the top of the panel (where it meets the glass). I think the wiring is different for deluxe and the double handle door shell is different. The standard one could possibly be modified. All my pieces are driver quality not great but will be fine for the direction that I am going on my car.

  10. Hopefully the completed panels are better than just the cardboard. Came bent and had to use them for templates to make my own (standard interior) out of wood.

    I would also make sure that they come with the metal pin strips on the edges that pop the panel to the door.

    Good luck. Their other stuff seems really nice, hope these are too.

    Mike

  11. I am rebuilding the box in my box # 5687962. Just a couple questions. I got a Delco rebuild kit and it is going well. I did damage one of the teflon seals on the pump. Does anyone know where to get just the seals? The instructions said to put them in hot water for 10 minutes to ease installation but they stretched too much so I need all 3. I could buy another kit but that seems like a waste of parts and money.

    Also, my box only has 22 balls when most of the info I found online shows 24. Any source for info on these? I doesn't appear to have been apart before.

    Mike

  12. Some barn-finds that I have... built when I was a kid. Still have them thanks to my brother.

    My first Rivi circa 1975-76.

    post-74569-143142934904_thumb.jpg

    post-74569-143142934909_thumb.jpg

    And my second one, the same time just customized.

    post-74569-143142934913_thumb.jpg

    post-74569-143142934917_thumb.jpg

    I have a few more to finish. I think I bought 4 or 5 more over the years.

    post-74569-143142934922_thumb.jpg

    I like to build a model of the car I am working on to give me a better idea of what it would look like when finished.

    Mike

    • Like 1
  13. Thanks Steve. I googled them and saw a couple good shots. Mine is power windows so it's a bit different. I just needed to figure out switch placement and what trim was on these panels. They look pretty basic (no pun) so I think I'll be OK. I ordered the trim pieces from a Riviera dismantler. I hope that with those pieces and new cards I can get them done.

    Mike

  14. Pete, those are great points. I have a deluxe car and pulled a panel and it fits the door. So I guess I can assume that the metal piece is the same as long as the door cards that Mitch describes attach to them. The price is right for testing it out for sure. I would need the arm rests and window switches. I'm looking for both door window switches and both door handle bellcranks, the chrome strips that hold the card and the header piece together, and whatever pins go down the sides of the panel to hold it to the door. Are any of these made new or only off original cars? I thought that I saw the bellcranks somewhere...

    Any exploded views of the standard door and how/what the pieces are and how they go together?

    Thanks

  15. I'm working on my '65 and just trying to get it to the running and driving - not restored - stage for the summer season. Been too long without a cool car to drive. I have standard interior with power windows but no interior. So I am gathering parts to make it passable. Found some rear panels from an earlier model and hope that they will work for a '65. The problem is that I have nothing for my doors. I checked into panels either kits or just the plain panels but I think I need the top piece from an original. Is this true? I ran into this when I restored a '70 Chevelle but I had the old panels to get those pieces from. Are the deluxe and standard upper metal pieces the same? Thanks in advance for the advise.

    Mike

  16. What are the differences re. the motors from other GM cars? Are they all the same mounting pattern? I am still waiting to be as lucky as Ed... :D I have the plates but no motors/wiring/switches...

    To answer your question, if you look on eBay they are about $300/side for the motors. No luck finding switches or wiring.

    Good luck with your search.

    Mike

×
×
  • Create New...