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pyrodork

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Everything posted by pyrodork

  1. i have a 37 plymouth sedan that needs a new engine (i ruined the last one). i found a 25" long block 218 engine from a 46 dodge truck that i can get in a trade. i heard that the bolt holes and mounts should line up fine, but just the radiator needs to be moved forward to accommodate the extra 2" on the block. my question is: 1) will this actually line up to the mounts on the frame; and all elsewhere for that matter? is it just as simple as moving the radiator? 2) how have folks made the mods to accept the 23 to 25 conversion? photos are encouraged! this morning, i held up the radiator as if i moved the top mounts to the other side. looks like everything would fit, but the filler cap is blocked. is there another radiator i could grab from a junkyard that would work better? cost is really the key at this point. i've been considering installing a small block 360, but it seems the cost would outweigh my budget and workspace at the moment. the guy who sold me the car is selling the 360 (he bought it to install in that car) and he says it wouldn't take much to do it. a prior consensus on this site has decided it would take much more than motor mounts, a rear end, and a modern radiator. thoughts?
  2. i just picked up some assist straps on ebay that look like they're going to fit my 37 plymouth sedan. the fabric is much beyond recognition and will need to be replaced. i can make new straps and possibly figure out some way to measure the originals (though i'm not counting on accurate measurements that way), but i was thinking that somebody has to have done this before. i'm not out to spend tons of money on pre-made straps, but a definite pattern would be awesome. i'm considering making these out of leather. the bracket is of closed loops with two horizontal screw holes and a coat hook on top. it appears that there's a button-snap at the top of the straps, but it could just be a standalone fastener that goes from the outer (front) end, through the strap, through the other end, and through the strap again. the inside fastener has fabric on it. the outer one may have had it at one time. i understand this is a fairly easy assignment; with or without a pattern, but some definitions would help me figure out what best to do.
  3. i understand those are a rare chance to come by. what else would be (loosely) compatible? and what about my mention of dropping the body on a modern frame with all that already attached?
  4. there's a couple local junkyards where i can yank the parts off myself and save a lot on the price. no cutting or sawing allowed. only bolted-on stuff. but that got me thinking about putting a modern front end on the car. i know the mustang II's are popular to rebuild with. one of these yards has two mid-90's mustangs. although i haven't a clue if they're un-bolt-able or not, it got me wondering if a modern front end could work with my 37 when i upgrade to a 360. if the newer cars are front wheel drive, and i'm already set up for rear wheel drive, wouldn't that pose a problem? i'm pretty sure mustangs are still RWD, but i don't remember offhand. i think i remember hearing somewhere that a 90's chevy s-10 rolling chassis' are a pretty good fit for these bodies. in the same respect, wouldn't a ford ranger or dodge truck fit similarly? what other vehicles could i grab a front end from that would fit without too much trouble? and what about getting a radiator? what should i look for when finding one to handle a 360 that will fit in the shell?
  5. that's generous of you, but i'd have no way to get it from tennessee back to minnesota. i did find a local engine/trans for 200, though. not sure if i wanna just drop that in so i can drive the car while waiting for the new engine thing to pan out.
  6. i don't have the parts in-hand yet, but the guy i bought the car from was going to install this engine and has built motor mounts already, plus he's selling me two 4-spds and a better rear end. my MC and brake lines were new a year ago, so i'm sure those are fine. would a new front end and steering be necessary, or could i work around what i have? my sway bar is broken, but i was thinking about getting a mustang II sway bar instead of an original. and i'm really not a fan of the look of modern steering columns in an antique car (or do you mean RnP steering systems?). and wouldn't i need a new radiator, too? and is removing the body absolutely necessary? i've never done it and really don't have much space to do it, either. couldn't i just remove the front clip and fenders? my girlfriends' dad has done this kind of thing before, so hopefully he'll help me when i get a chance to start. i'm not so worried about wiring. i have a knack for that. it's the fabrication and 'making it work' that concerns me.
  7. i'm looking for somewhat of a guide as to putting a 360 in my 37 ply. i have the engine, trans, and rear end lined up, but what exactly is the process for putting it together? this is my first time attempting this sort of thing, so help would be appreciated. maybe there's a website or a video of someone doing this?
  8. info needed: - as some may remember (if you go back a few pages), i royally screwed my engine. i'm gonna be getting a 360 to put in its place. question: as i'm sure others have done it before, is there a how-to, procedure, video, or anything of the process? - does anyone have upholstery information? measurements, patterns, pics, etc? i'm going to do mine myself, but would like a guide to go off of. seats and door panels. - when buying locally-obtained universal gas shocks, what length should i buy? does anyone have pics of how it's supposed to be, pics of the fittings? - looking for a glass source or measurements/info to give to a local glass shop (1937 p4, 2-door sedan). - info on refinishing the woodgrain dash. methods, dash pics, etc. parts needed: - speedo GLASS (i cracked mine when putting it back together) - license light back plate (i have the housing already) - rear window package shelf - trunk floor - 2 black marble window cranks
  9. it could have been me... but i think i'm going to need a mustang II bar because i need to put a new engine in it, and got a 360 lined up.
  10. that's interesting! it's odd, though, from the history of the vehicle i've received. regardless, i gots what i gots. sounds like my 219 may be late 40's to early 50's. judging from a photo i took a few months ago with a tape measure, the bore size appears to be 3.25". my photo doesn't show the measure going to exactly 3.25, but it's close enough to determine. it shows 3 3/16" but not counting the extra mm's that the tip of the tape gives you. now to find out exactly what size the 219 is. my carter carb model is D6G1, which did cause a problem when i ordered a rebuild kit for a 37 plymouth. i'm not sure if that gives any kind of hint, but perhaps it was a package deal with the engine and the carb was always with it?
  11. i think that's what i'm going to end up doing. the block looks good, but i gotta loosen up the crank to get that bent rod out. i figure that i'll at least get the one cylinder resleeved (or should i do them all at once?), new rods/bearings/pistons/rings/gaskets... then see where i end up. as a backup, i found someone nearby selling a block, but he hasn't had any bites in a year or two. i'm kinda stuck on which parts to get, though... since my engine does not appear to be original. that "specify model 219" tag is getting to me, too, since i'm aware of a 218 engine, but not a 219. can't really work on the ply so much right now. got a model AA ford i'm trying to run (not drive right now... just run!). those tire/tube assemblies get mighty expensive when used isn't really an option! money is still tight... but on the bright side, i should have a college degree in june!
  12. point noted. thanks! ...but how do people react to an antique car going 45 in a 55-60 zone? just curious. don't see that very often!
  13. wow! let's see that rat! (i'd like to hype up my new 29 {maybe 30?} rusty ford stakebed at a later point in time; as 45mph top speed isn't too thrilling on the highway (actually found a 100hp late 40's ford flathead v8, stuck, for $100 that i'm thinking about), but i'd really just like to get her moving right now. same with the plymouth, for that matter. eventually planning to make a roadster stakebed with a folding top (but $$$$$$$$)! i do like speed... so maybe upgrading the suspension on the plymouth is ideal? or just throw an engine in there to have fun while budgeting for the big deal? thing is, i have to throw a lot of money down regardless. maybe modify the motor mount now and upgrade the suspension when i can afford it? i don't mind the clutch up-down so much. question remains, though... would it mostly be upgrading the throttle linkage and electrical to make it work once it's in? i honestly have no idea.
  14. the engine is a january 29 production number. i'll try to figure out more later, but it's really all details that i'm not very concerned about at the moment. i want to get that engine runnin! found the AA club and am waiting for my membership to go through. located a mid-late 40's ford 100hp flathead v8 with "59ab" on the heads, stuck, no carb or exhaust, for $100. is this reasonable to accommodate my engine cavity and trans? $100 is pretty tough to beat.
  15. eventually, but one thing at a time. the guy i bought the car from had a 340 or 360 with j heads he was going to put in it. plus 2 4-speed trannies and a rear end from a 73 challenger for $600. not sure if he still has them, but if i'm going to spend the money, why don't i spend it on something bigger? alternate plans are to either get that desoto engine or resleeve the cylinders in the one i've got and put in new rods and pistons. i started thinking about the bigger engine because if i get the bigger desoto (ideally because of slightly more hp), i'll have to modify things anyway. might as well get an engine that will give me a lot more hp, right? it makes sense to me.
  16. just out of curiosity, if i'm going to change the engine out, how hard would it be to change to a 318, 340, 360 instead? motor mounts are obvious, but i'm more worried about electrical, gauges, pedals... overall functioning. i often find these with small block 340/360 mopar engines in them, but not up close so i can examine.
  17. here's what i've got up front and the rear end. it's pretty heavy duty. i'm not sure how many gears it has since i need to de-rust that still. the engine number is what told me it was a 29 (researched it). guy i got it from thought it was a 28. saw a 29 aa on fordbarn and it looks like a light duty stakebed compared to mine. any input is appreciated!
  18. nice! thanks! i'll look around for a used cab... i'm going for the rusty, chopped top look. i've gotta do the folding top (when i can throw down the money for it all!). do you have a pic you can post of the top down from the side?
  19. first, a quick picture of what i bought (minus the wheels on top of the bed). a quick search found the les andrews book at $160... but i did more research and found one for a reasonable price. there's also two additional volumes that i'll probably end up getting sometime in the future when i get a little more cash. 4) second and third pics (the third pic, the u-joint is in the bottom right)... i was told it did have a PTO, so that's probably it. located right next to the e-brake handle. assuming that's what it is, where's the other end supposed to go, and what's it supposed to do for me? 6) fourth pic, homemade exhaust port and hole in firewall. 7) it's not my first disassembly, but with this one, i'm not planning on removing/replacing everything. i know i could run the engine with oil for a bit, then drain the oil... but i'd like to bypass that while i'm inspecting and replacing gaskets anyway. just wondered if there was a better solvent i could use with the guts still installed besides regular degreaser. oh, and i don't have access to a hose, so i'll have to pour a few buckets to rinse, if that makes any difference. and for reference, what engine years/models are drop-in, which of those would give me the most bang for my buck, and which more modern engines would be choice with minimal connecting modifications? i understand that stock engines will go 40-55mph comfortably, 60 is maxing it out (i think i heard the aa goes slower than the standard a). i don't see any reason why i'd need to go more than 65-70 tops (for any reason), but it would be nice to know that i'm not killing the engine by doing so. suppose i can check out the hamb about this as well. also located the specific AA club. so much to do, so little time.
  20. perhaps not the best choice of words, but what i'm getting at is a rusty truck with a few mods running mostly original components (maybe not a traditional rat, but still a rat, right?). at some point down the road (pun?), it may be worth upgrading the engine, but for now i'd just like to get it running and soon after, moving. as i wait for my first round of parts and books to come, i might as well throw out a few questions. going to check fordbarn later. 1) that dang headlight/horn switch. i have no lights or horn, and no wires coming out the bottom of the column. i have the original switch, but apparently it was only attached with one solid wire in the center and broke off. for the life of me, i can't figure out how it's supposed to attach to the wheel. the nut for the wheel is probably the most rusted part on the truck. i figured out there's supposed to be a switch at the bottom of the column, but a one-wire connection at the top doesn't make sense to me. i'll probably get a new switch (or just the horn button if i can find it individually), but i currently have no reference point. 2) the reverse lockout lever on the shift arm. mine's rusted (and soaking in pb blaster). how do i get that danged cap off the lever housing to get at the structural part of it? fortunately, my floor is a couple pieces of plywood, so i have complete access from the top. 3) brakes. my front ones only have the forked joint, but no rods on them. it seems only my left rear is connected, so i'm unsure how the right rear connects as well as the fronts. my e-brake lever is busted at the floor and looks like parts are missing. also, the brake pedal is very loose. i can't find any spring that would bring it back to standard position, and it rubs against the starter when i push on it. on the subject of wheels, anyone know the size of socket i need to get the lug nuts off? they're huge. 4) running along the right side of the driveshaft from the tranny is a u-joint with a 1" rod attached to it, maybe 3 feet long, with a square end on it. any ideas? 5) is the fan supposed to be so close to the radiator that even the belt is difficult to pass by it (when removing/installing)? maybe i need new motor mounts (haven't looked). on that subject, would it be worth getting a fan shroud to make cooling better, or does it really not make a difference? 6) on the firewall end of my exhaust manifold, right before the bend somebody put a hole in it and welded a 3" long 2" diameter pipe there. there's a male coupling pipe on the end of that. there -was- a piece of sheet metal to plug the original exhaust port (broke apart and lots of nut shells poured out). perhaps a vertical tractor muffler was installed (no holes in the hood)? otherwise, why would someone do that? i do have a hole in the firewall for the heater, but this seems a bit far-fetched for that. i'd just like to know what people think. oh, and there's tubing that's been cut off coming from the center of the intake manifold. for wipers? 7) finally (for now), i will be pulling the head and such for inspection and cleaning. any advice on a good way to clean (myself) the years of rust/dirt that may have accumulated (aside from a few cans of degreaser and a hose)? engine does turn, and overall seems to be in okay shape. i know about machining and will cross that point when/if i come to it. i've got my old cars stored in a garage about 25-30 minutes from my house, so accessibility is not always an immediate option... but i did take a lot of pictures and can always take more on my visits. sorry for the essay. thanks!
  21. love the cab and that top! that's exactly what i've been picturing in my head for my stakebed. where can i find them?
  22. thanks! already made an order! i also found mike's a-fordable auto parts, but it seems that brattons probably has a better price on some things. however, brattons didn't give me the cost of shipping yet, or even an approximate base for shipping cost vs. total cost of products. mike's did. also bought jim shield's restoration guide for the AA, and dyke's A and AA engine and chassis manual. hopefully that's a good start while i make some more money!
  23. pyrodork

    new AA owner!

    last night, i became the proud, happy owner of a '29 model AA stakebed truck! it was a barn find years ago, that nobody got around to... and it sat outside for who knows how long? 5 years maybe? so there's a bit of parts i need and a bit of information as to what's supposed to connect to what... and how. i have no intention of full restoration, but to make it a mostly-original rat rod. so just as a general question, what are good online resources as far as finding affordable rebuilding kits and parts? websites of detailed pictures and such are also appreciated! thanks!
  24. model is C-1450. i think the new one i got is a 1451, but i don't remember. yes, the speaker has the transformer on it. not sure how to remove it or check it. there is no cap right off the power wire input, but there's two small cans (1/2" wide by about 2" long) underneath on the tube side right next to the vibrator, and i don't know what they're for. aside from the larger (1-1/4" wide by 4" long) can with the green/yellow terminals (it's got two caps inside, plus something rating the can itself), all known caps have been replaced. i did put new caps in place of the can, but it made no difference. one of them got shorted accidentally, so i put the can back in place. not sure about what the output tube heater voltages are, but the tubes are 41, 75, 78 (x2), 84, and 6A7. thanks!
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