CDN224

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About CDN224

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    37 Pontiac Silverstreak

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    CDN224 (37 Pontiac Silverstreak) - Located in Barrie, Ontario Canada; 1 hr north of Toronto.

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  1. Members, lm trying to find a paint code or mix formula for a "close to" match to the famous Tiffany Blue. I have many samples, any actual Tiffany boxes that was taken to a custom repair shop to try and colour match, the scans come up, but the system can't make the formula.. I even tried to get a home paint store to scan, they could but the box formula is for house paint.. i emailed Lamborghini to see if they could help... some codes are close, but I was wondering if someone would have their code / mix formula to share, so I can get a spray can made to test.. pics are are some of the research I have been doing.. Good afternoon Mr. Schouwstra, Thank you for reaching out to Automobili Lamborghini and for your interest in our color lineup. The closest color we could find to match “Tiffany Blue” was our color Blu Glauco paint code LAMBOR-0123. I hope this was helpful. Thank you and have a great day. Best regards, Roland Customer Care America Automobili Lamborghini America LLC. 2003 Edmund Halley Dr, Reston, VA 20191 customercareamerica@lamborghini.com www.lamborghini.com
  2. Yes, they are sealed units, with built in led turn, I think the model of them at 900IT, I still have the glass originals, but wanted to try and make a testing bench for all my lights.. With a switch to simulate high, low and flasher.. This way I can see how they will look before actual install, i saw some videos on some neat setups, a small battery then a small 2x4 with a few toggles, one for on, high and turn.. Just need to find how to make it and wire it all up.
  3. Gents, Ladies.. I'm back working on my 1937 Pontiac Silverstreak 224, I have been away from the forum for a while.. as I start planning the rebuild steps, I'm starting on some smaller parts.. I'm restoring my bucket headlights with new lights with built in flasher.. Is there any way to quickly test them before assembly? Thanks..
  4. So sorry.. been away for a while, however now back at my restoration project.. will catch up on the conversations...
  5. Hi Bob, i will be in touch, I have a 1937 Pontiac SilverStreak dash clock that could use some restoration.. Cable etc... Trevor
  6. Hello All, sorry, it's been a while for this posting but my project is well underway, I have some great updates to share... Regarding the hubcaps.. I had NO luck on finding a place to replicate, the offers here to engrave may be my best option. I will be in contact to all in near future once my project is underway again.. Via PM. greatly appreciate! Trevor
  7. Hello, the floor itself is fine, with a few spots where the previous owner riveted plates (transmission opening) where they were rusted out, I guess a welder was not available. My goal is to run a bead of weld where the plates are, and replace the old (sil plates?).. Otherwise the floor is good, but thin... I am going to put in a sub floor on top, then carpet, then install the seats. I just wanted to give the floor some extra support to last longer. the second set of pics posted now show what was discovered today, after I saw the main section where the front seat attaches, it separate from the floor, and I do know that this looks bad, but everything can be fixed.. The door post has some good metal left, and I will weld it back onto the floor frame underneath, and the door plates will be replaced. underneath, the floor panel where it meets up with the edge, has solid, clean metal, so it mostly a redo, of the door plates. what should I use underneath to protect the metal floor, coat it with a strong sealant?
  8. All, I am at the stage of my project where the body can be fully accessed from underneath, as I have the body off frame and mounted on custom racking. Allowing me to inspect, clean and prep before remounting to the frame. I am patching some spots, welding some replacement panels and soaking the areas that are hard to reach with rust converter etc... What should be used on the underneath floor of the car? The section is clean, and dry with no sign of any undercoating. What can be done to make the floor a bit more solid, should I add a layer of Fiberglass with some added braces inside the car? should I add a slim sub floor or paneling so the entire car is level for carpeting? any and all suggestions welcomed, and thank you.
  9. Team, I wanted to post my restored gauge, thanks to Roy Martin.. Talents are remarkable... Here is my temp gauge repaired and restored. I was able to replicate the face plate with a UV protected sticker, Roy made new bulb and tubing.. 42" long. Fits like a glove.
  10. Hello, My 37 Pontiac glovebox component had small metal clips + screws (you can see the damage screws did from previous owner) on the chrome line markers, and across my dash as well, I had to pry it off (some clips broke due to rust / age) - my glovebox door panel did not have a secondary backing, like yours.. The trim also has a small adhesive in some places.. I restored my dash (pic below) - topped with UV ClearCoat If you can get or borrow a small scope, see if you can visualize any clips withing the 2 back plates, the only other option is to cautiously see if you can lift off the trim OR (not desired or suggested) cut off the backplate after confirming any clips and re-weld back on... some of my trim broke, and I replaced with the flexible trim you can get at any auto store.. Good Luck
  11. All, I am now ready to connect the new fuel line to my tank; however it needs cleaning.. what do you recommend to use; as I have read many forums about Cleaning with: Oxalid Acid (wood bleach), 90%+ Acetone, muratic acid, rust remover etc.. both petroleum and water based.. Sealing etc: Por-15, nothing... but fresh gas.. I am told, stay away from water based chemicals for flash rusting, using a chain for breaking up the rust (if any) or something to remove the "gummy old fuel residue" thank you in advance... as well, when connecting from the tank to my line, some suggest a rubber flex hose, sounds reasonable.. any suggestions on type.
  12. Applications: NOS MOOG 1939 - 1948 CHEVROLET UPPER ARM OUTER BUSHINGS PIN K-26 CHEVROLET Link Pin -Lower Outer With Seals. 1939-54 Cars & 1953-62 Corvette From what I was told, this is the lower outer link pin with seals. It fits 1939-54 passenger cars and 1953-62 Corvette. For 1939 1940 1941 1942 1944 1945 1946 1947 1948 1949 1950 1951 1952 1953 1954 Chevrolet Cars. Chevy of the 40's have similar. Purchased from another vendor, was misled and wrong size, my loss, your win. Willing to sell at lower cost plus shipping, out of consideration I have attempted to measure the pin and bushing for you with a digital caliper. FREE BONUS: I also received 4x (2x Left and 2x Right) Tie Rod Ends (ES401R ES401L / PES401R PES401L) from a RockAuto, cant use - I will include FREE with the pin (all 4 pieces) - just pay for shipping. SHIPPING: this is just an estimate, please email me for accurate shipping costs. Will ship in Canada, and USA. Will put GIFT so no duties are incurred. make offer...
  13. Members.. So with your help we identified my engine... since the cleanup the distributor was removed before marking. We got the fire order captured but lost TDC. I'm not that mechanical savvy so please correct anything I may get wrong.. I searched online to read on advice to get Top Dead Center on a 235. I found posts on the finger test in spark plug 1, TDC tools, ball bearing on fly wheel.. I wanted to share how I "may" have found my TDC. I welcome any corrections. I purchased a squeaking dog toy at a dollar store. Found some misc tubing and cut the squeaking part from the toy and put it in the tubing and placed tube into spark plug 1. Removed starter... I cleaned the the flywheel with decreaser and light sandpaper. I found a triangle marking and a ball bearing with additional markings. I took the valve cover off to watch the valves move as I turned the engine slowly. The air started to squeak the tube. I saw the triangle pass.. then the squeaking stopped... at the same time the pin on the bell housing was over the ball bearing.. Just to make sure I turned the engine a few times. Partly because this was my first TDC discovery I wanted to watch a few times as the markers passed. Each time the squeaking started the first 2 valves were up. When the squeaking stopped.. the valves were down and the pointers matched up each time... I think the number 5, is 5 degrees of TDC? Now at this point I'm not 100% sure.. when the housing pin is at the ball bearing.. did I find TDC?
  14. Thank you, they did an amazing job... I will also be replacing the Oil, Temp and voltage plates as well, Ill post the before and after pics of the entire dash when completed. Should anyone require their help, they are easy on the wallet and have great products.