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About Northwestsun

  • Birthday 01/31/1951

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  1. Jerry, Adding freon is a relatively inexpensive trial, if one is using 134a. But you are still using R-12, and I'm guessing that is pricey. Not even sure where you would get it. The conversion kits at auto stores are pretty simple. Worked for me. Perhaps my experience from earlier post today is helpful to you? Dave
  2. Looks like I got it. Only way I could keep the compressor running was to remove the AC relay and jump cavities #1 and #4. Compressor then stayed on to swallow 2 1/2 cans of freon. Removed the jumper, replaced the relay and the AC once again runs as it should! Hope this helps someone else. It appears that the compressor became intermittent due to low refrigerant. I had Midas purge the system to give me a fresh start and got 12 oz. cans of 134a at the local auto store. Dave
  3. Tar...nation!!! Them thar new fangled cars... (though it's 20 years old!). When they work right they're great - but when they don't...! Ronnie, I jumped the switch, cleared codes, and the compressor came for a few seconds before shutting off, doing this repeatedly as I tried to charge with refrigerant. Made a slight squeal each time before coming on. Then it kicked out one last time and now won't come on at all. Cleared codes again, then swapped in the relay from the horn to see if that was the problem. Still no compressor. Looks like I'll try the 12v jump next. Where exactly do I jump to? The site directions are a little unclear at this point (at least to me). Also wondering if the compressor is just faulty. Dave
  4. Thanks so much Ronnie! I meant to check your site before I came out with this. Looks like you've given me the solution! Will get to it tomorrow or this weekend. Dave
  5. Greetings All, Thought I would try to get the AC in my '90 working better, as the compressor seemed to want to work only when car was in gear, and then only intermittently. The nice fellows at Midas evacuated the system yesterday without charge. I have 3 cans of 134a (car was previously converted, according to the note in the engine bay) that I'm trying to get into the system. Problem is that the Climate Control stays on ECON and the compressor, of course, won't come on at all! When I push AUTO the ECON light blinks a few times and then comes back on full. Consequently, the system won't charge. Code is appropriately B448c. Any ideas? Continued gratitude for all the help this forum has been in keeping my Coupe running well! Northwestsun
  6. Bob, Did you get the AC compressor figured out? I have the same problem... clutch engages only when in drive or reverse. Dave
  7. My '88 Trofeo locks when moved out of PARK.
  8. If you're trying to just get the buttons out all you need to do is undo the four torx screws (which you have circled in blue). The buttons (push part and housings) should then just fall out. Don't see any need to tinker with anything else here... FSM states to keep the front of the SIR assembly pointed "Away" from you. Northwestsun... (Yes it is today!)
  9. I say go for it! It's mostly a matter of procedure with this stuff. If you are orderly, can follow directions and take your time you should be okay. (Good eyes help!) Look, it's not working now, right? What have you got to lose? You can always send it in or buy a unit already rebuilt. I did the capacitor rebuild last year and it was worth the time and effort as it turned out fine. I'm planning on doing what you are trying - though mine is on a '90. Ronnie's directions, I believe, are for '88-'89. Dave
  10. There is also a place in Seattle that seems to have everything... books4cars.com.
  11. Gary, Yes, one kit does both sides. I think my rattle was coming from all around... none of the calipers had clips installed. I replaced the front pads along with installing the clips but for the rear I used the old pads which still had wear. Best!
  12. Good news is that brake rattle on my '90 is now gone!! I purchased the anti-rattle clips from "The Reatta Store" for both front and back. So nice to drive a quiet Reatta... Thanks Ronnie for having these available! Dave
  13. All, And now complete success!!! Through testing with the resistor I determined that the coil (clock spring) was faulty and causing the wrong resistance. I found one at Pick and Pull off a non-Reatta Buick. Installed it into the steering wheel/column and the lights are off! (Hint... I cut the yellow wires at the base of the column to both remove old coil and install new one. Threading is easy through the steering column with the relatively fat yellow wire. I soldered the connections near the yellow plug, wrapped with electrical tape and then heat-shrink tubing for double safety.) Lots of plastic removed to get at this component, and over the weeks several usages of my steering wheel puller. I know I could do the procedure blind-folded. Has been one of the more aggravating issues with my Reatta so far. But am delighted to now look at the dash and see NO warning lights! Northwestsun :cool:
  14. Simple question... Are topics and valuable information getting 'lost' through this thread? Seems it remains preferable to request help with a specific title for each issue. :confused:
  15. The day I don't have to do something to my Reatta is a good day!
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