MikeC5

I did add some diagonals as you suggested Cutdown. I was able to get a couple of drives in with the new spring base and some blankets over it and it seemed pretty comfortable.

If oiling the rings freed things up and it turns easily without plugs in and your Dad is sure the bearings have oil grooves, maybe you don't have to drop the pan. On the other hand, dropping the pan isn't all that difficult on these (at least it wasn't on my '25) and a quick look at the rod caps would be a good piece of mind. I'm glad it was only a bent valve on #3 !

I think he said it was no improvement when trying on gravity feed from a can. But you do make a good point that fuel pooling on #2 and 3 is suspicious of a vacuum tank problem with vacuum port which can lead to fuel being sucked into the vacuum supply line from vacuum tank to inlet 'manifold' (not really a manifold; it's only 1). That line would deposit fuel between #2 and 3... I'm guessing it wold be best to stick with the ausilliary fuel tank until you can get it running properly, then open up the vacuum tank and take a look. I met a vendor at Hershey who specializes in rebuilding vacuum tanks who did make a convincing argument that the little valve seat that are pressed into the lid are difficult to replace if you don't have the right technique and tools. Let me know and I'll PM you his contact info. We know from your compression test that you probably have a valve problem on #3, so I would start diagnosing that first. Just removing the tappet cover and hand cranking with the plugs out it should be easy to spot a sticky valve. If you know someone who can take a look in the chamber with a borescope, that would most likely reveal the problem too. As for the timing, iirc, a early car does not have markings on the flywheel and you have to watch the valve open/close to set it properly (the BOI has the procedure). Did you do this or did the shop claim they did? Probably worth double checking if the latter.

I'm exhausted after watching that first guy...

What does the writing say on the wings?

I hope it's only dry rings and a sticky valve. But I still think you should check those bearings too.

The repro pipe I bought from Romar some years ago goes up and over the rear axle.

If I had anything to do with building that, I wouldn't want my name on it either... Yuk! But to each his own...

That's a shame. I spoke with him on the phone several times a few years ago and he was a good guy and made a quality product.

Are you sure the valves are adjusted properly? If valve/tappet clearance is too tight, the valve won't fully close when engine s warmed up. Have you done a compression check or leakdown test? Still a good idea to verify the basics.

Agree that '55 Caddy in front of the bridge is an exceptional photo!

If you don't need a lot of utility, an early Mustang would seem to be a good choice. You can even start with a new body shell. Some of the rust problems may very well be down to poor design for water drainage but also keep in mind that the 'rust proofing' was pretty crude back then as well. I would think if you can start with something un-rusted, a thorough, modern rustproofing would greatly reduce the problem. I'm talking about improved coatings, getting it into all hidden cavities, etc. And then for another layer of protection, do annual fluid film-type of oil/wax spray under there.

That'll buff right out...

That's what I was thinking too.

I'm sure Myers Early Dodge has used ones for sale (I bought some a few years ago). Send them an email as they don't list used parts on the website. https://www.myersearlydodge.com/

I prefer the Figoni et Falaschi take on this style but (ahem) I wouldn't throw this out of my garage...

They must have reinforced the anti sway bar attachments...

It's amazing to see such a big car hustle like that! That Alfa driver was something else too!

I thought you all might enjoy this one. I believe it was taken along Rt. 7 somewhere in Wilton/Georgetown, CT area.

I drove by the Branchville Shell station today. It looks exactly the same now except for no pumps in front ....

I used this on my '25 DB (contacting rear brakes only) and it has worked fine. https://www.mcmaster.com/brake-lining/

i suspect a good chance of clutch not fully releasing. I'm not sure if 1919 has the clutch inspection cover. If so, you can take out the 2 bolts and take a look in there. If the car hasn't been used in a long while, the multi-disc clutch plates can stick together. I found this thread by searching "clutch plates sticking". You may also want to make sure the throw out bearing is greased. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/89894-clutch-on-1920-dodge/#comment-383659

Thanks for the input. I took another look at the original seat springs and I do see some of the clips are longer than the distance between springs (allowing some movement), but some not. They don't have much give if you try and pull them apart. It will be some time before I get around to covering the assembly so if it is too stiff, I'll be able to change the plan.

A little more progress. I thought I would try an aircraft mechanic trick by using safety wire to tie the springs together on top. This is 0.032" diameter stainless steel wire. I'll put some blankets over it and test it out for a while...

I think you would have to unfold them (if possible) and take some better overall shots of the top irons. Someone may be able to ID them from top iron details.