MikeC5

As I've often said, no brakes never stopped me.... He he. Sorry, had to do it.

I have also been happy with the brake material purchased from McMaster Carr. Is this the stuff you're using? https://www.mcmaster.com/clutch-material/construction~woven/

I would argue that driving a Model T is really easier than trying to drive a conventional sliding gear, no synchro transmission. I think if you took someone who never drove anything but an automatic in their life and gave them a quick lesson on how to drive a T and how to drive a similar era, sliding gear, non-synchro gearbox car, I would bet they would be more comfortable driving the T as a beginner. Funny that a T tranny is distantly related to conventional automatics in as far as gear arrangements and clutch pack.

I don't know from first hand experience but Myers seems to indicate that the parts are interchangable between these years with exception that acorn nuts changed from 22 to 23. https://www.myersearlydodge.com/chassis.php

I believe the spacers serves 2 functions, it limits how much you can tighten the acorn nut and compress the spring and it helps center things. On my .25 touring the upper and lower assemblies are identical.

Or is paying enough attention to...

Minibago, my lights are the barrel (cylidrical) type (example below), which I beleive are correct for '24 - '25. The headlight rings I'm using, I was told, are from the earlier, round back body type. The '25 rings (that came with the car) have less chamfer on the forward OD but were badly cracked. I was able to get these earlier style rings which had the retainer tabs at the same locations to fit the barrel style drum fine. It appears the later retaining springs operate differently and instead of the point of the hook dropping into a hole or slot, as the ring is rotated the retainer slips under the spring clip and then stops when the edge of retainer bumps into the hook base. Apparently it's just the force of the spring clip against the retainer (friction) that keeps them in place. I've not had any problem with them rotating once on.

That's what I was thinking....

Not to muddy the waters but I thought I would post photos of how my '25 headlight reflector and ring are retained. I believe the ring is incorrect for a '25 (not as much OD chamfer) but the earlier style do fit. I'm kind of wondering if I have them assembled right after seeing the photos here (where the clip is behind the reflector). I also need to get some cork gasket material.

FYI, there was guy selling a pair of headlights of this style who posted on the forum maybe a week ago. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/210162-1923-dodge-brothers-headlights-for-dsale/#comment-2474680

The fact that it was repainted is a bit scary unless you've gone over it thoroughly with a magnet to check for filler. If you are absolutely sure that it doesn't have hidden filler and the body is as solid as it appears, I could see offering $4K. If the front floor pans are really 'gone' (needing full replacement), it would concern me that the car had been exposed to salted roads and has more hidden rust.

I'm trying to get the spring padding looking right and am not sure what to do on the upper portion of seat back. The cover has come up and over and have a rounded look like this photo from a restored car. I think using cotton will give the smoothest look here but it's difficult to get a consistently think layer in there. Any other ideas?

This is the stuff I used https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tenax-Hardware-Netting-15-ft-L-2-ft-H-1-2-x-1-2-in-Mesh-Plastic-Black/468782704. It's not real hardware cloth. It's nylon (?) string coated with plastic. It's really is pretty flexible. I think it's the same stuff Hugh used on his '25 Buick.

I talked to Bill James at this past year's Hershey meet, who had a vacuum tank display and seemed to have a good handle on all of the ins & outs on them. He convinced me that it swapping out my current cracked/JB welded top for a new cast aluminum top was not as easy as it might seem due to the pressed in valve seats. I haven't used his services yet but I'm posting his information here in case someone wants to contact him. Bill James bj31kars@yahoo.com Box 103 Apple River, IL 61001 (815) 594-2541

Thanks Mark. I like the idea of using the 2 x 4s to compress the seat bottom for attachment of cover. It appears he compresses it 2 - 3". I made my bottom spring assemblies to match the uncovered spring height of the originals. I'm not sure if there is enough left of the orignal covers to tell how tall the side skirt should be (a clue to how much the springs were compressed). Can anyone measure the approximate hieght of the seat bottom at forward and aft end of cusion? This would give me an approximate number to work towards for finished cusion height.

Here's an update showing the 1/2 inch hardware cloth (vinyl), canvas (instead of burlap), horse hair /rubber and then jute added to the spring assembly. I'm following Hugh's playbook and it looks pretty good so far.

Ha ha! yes, a bit of a stretch there. I guess you could say Dodge used to make a lot of the hardware on pre-1914 Fords.

Ding-ding-ding! That was quick!

How about this; what brand was the tractor Mr. Haney sold to Mr. Douglas?

Very nice work! I have an old (1933 vintage) 9" South Bend C model and just recently got a set of change gears so I can practice making threads.

I'm glad it worked out for you. It sounds like the seller was probably tired of tire kickers, etc... But, you can't be too careful buying a car sight unseen.

I understand Dave. I'll be interested to hear who you end up using.

I'm curious Dave, why not the Uvira process? The extra logisitics of having them nickel plated and then polished before Uvira? Or prefrring originality? (I still need to decide one or the other).

I like the Dino soap! I do rememebr a local car wash that gave you a free wash when you filled up. I still have some of those crappy Shell steak knives in the drawer too...

Thanks John. Feel free to ask for help when you decide to tackle it. I did get some of my supplies from Albrights.