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moose50

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Everything posted by moose50

  1. How's this? From my '27 (former) Screenside. Anything else needed?
  2. There is only one rim that looks like my other DB rims, and it seems to be 24" at where the inside diameter of the tire would sit. I'm in Massachusetts.
  3. This is all located in Hanover, MA. The split rims are two 24", one looks like my Dodge Brothers stuff. The other three are 25"s.
  4. Two door, running, driving, licensed complete car. Around 15k miles on a rebuilt engine. 251ci flathead 6 cylinder. Edmunds finned head, cam reground by Edgy. Fluid drive with a dual range Presto-matic transmission. 3.73 rear gears good for the highway too. Wide White tires 7.60 x 15 in fair shape. Has 12" drum brakes all around. Stops really well. New headliner, fairly new high quality seat covers. Floor has been repaired and is solid. 6volt positive ground, new battery, generator replaced with a correct 6v alternator. Has trailer hitch with 2 inch ball and four flat wiring connector. I use it to pull my utility trailer with LED bulbs. works fine. Interior pictures. Seat belts for five. Kid seat not included in the sale! I have the old door panels, in my shop, ready to be recovered by the new owner. Radio has been repaired and now works. Clock works sometimes. Interior light, heater and defroster, wipers, all work. I have a lot of extra parts and pieces to go with the car. Would make a great V8 car. Willing to keep engine/transmission and significantly lower price. Make offer. For more pictures, Here's my craigslist ad. http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/5472825533.html
  5. 6 Chrysler 15" wheels 5 on 5-1/2" Came off a 1950 8 cylinder car. Heavy Duty. 1 14" Mopar wheel 12" brake drums and backing plates from same car. Set of 4. Pair of HD coil springs from same. Power brake booster and master. 5 misc. split rims from teens or twenties cars. Don't know what they fit. Maybe Dodge Brothers. Dodge Brothers touring car doors. 1917? Make an offer. Then come and get it.
  6. 6 Chrysler 15" wheels 5 on 5-1/2" Came off a 1950 8 cylinder car. Heavy Duty. 1 14" Mopar wheel 12" brake drums and backing plates from same car. Set of 4. Pair of HD coil springs from same. Power brake booster and master. 5 misc. split rims from teens or twenties cars. Don't know what they fit. Maybe Dodge Brothers. Dodge Brothers touring car doors. 1917? Make an offer. Then come and get it.
  7. Yesterday was the first time that this pickup has seen the light of day since the late 60's! And I drove it out of the barn! I can't afford the proper 24" tires yet so I put the 21" wheels and tires from my speedster. Good times.
  8. On the firewall outside, upper drivers side is a tag with some peeling paint and rusted markings. Then to the left of that stamped in the firewall are the numbers 29381. Is this my body number? If so then it certainly is a 27, huh?
  9. That is a beautiful truck! I see a few differences, but they do seem to be very similar. Are those 21" tires? Mine has 24". The roof line is different too. Mine is angled, lower at the front, and doesn't have any lip over the front. Is that a wood bed?
  10. Wow Bill thanks! A little more insight. I'd love to see pictures of yours. Under-hood too, please. The thing I still can't figure out, is that the cab looks like a 25 and the steering column has the under hood controls that don't match up too well. The throttle control is at an off angle, and the spark control looks like it is supposed to go over the nonexistent starter/generator, and is different than that of my late built 27. Were they using leftover parts to build trucks? Even the splash pans look like they were modified to fit the 27 engine, with cuts and then bent metal to allow the oil line go up at the back. Oh yeah and the 1951 registration gives the number as a 1925- A303303 and is called a "SCREEN" I also have a 1968 Nevada ownership certificate that uses the same number, and calls it a 1927 Screen Truck.
  11. I've been making progress on my coupe in the last couple of weeks. Mostly body/floor support since it was in pretty bad shape when I got it. I made new floor rails out of 1-1/4" square tube after bracing the body with temporary smaller square tube. Soon I'll make the body mounts by attaching 16 gage sheet steel to the bottoms of the new rails on each side. Then re-attach the seat frame and strengthen it. Right now the doors close nicely, and line up fairly well. I'm happy with how it is coming together. The first picture shows how the rail is attached at the front to the cowl. It's bolted now, in case adjustments were needed, but will be welded soon. Second picture shows the new rails on the drivers side, and some temporary bracing. Third is more bracing.
  12. Today I made another bracket to add a filter to my pickup. 27 C engine. This one will have the splash pans going back in, so the bracket lowers the adapter underneath it. I'll have to wait to find out if the filter comes down below the pan as it is off right now. I'm still working on the oil pump, needs to be re-bushed in the housing. Lots of play in the shaft, and wear in the steel cover. The bracket is made from 20 gauge steel. The holes at the top, in the last picture, are the mounting holes to be held with oil pan bolts.
  13. I am making progress. In the last couple of weeks, I did the valves, had the head surfaced and cleaned. Also went through and checked out the starter, generator, intake heat tube and filter, cleaned and painted also. The carburetor and distributor oil pump are next. Then I'll finish cleaning out the pan, and reassemble.
  14. The gauge goes to 4 at start up and stays in the 3 to 4 range all the time. At low idle when warmed fully it drops to 2-1/2. I did put a new spring and gaskets in the pump when I had the pan off. Maybe that keeps it higher?
  15. Here are the pictures of the filter and adapter. I made a bracket that bolted on with two of the pan bolts on the passenger side. I cut into the oil supply line that goes from the pump to the check valve, and used 3/8" rubber fuel/oil line clamped onto the copper. The adapter came with the wrong size connectors (way too big- 1/2") but the hardware store has the 3/8" connectors. Then I went to the parts store and found the biggest filter that fit onto the adapter. The one that's on there is a Motorcraft FL1A. I figured that at such a low pressure, it would need as much area as possible to keep the flow high. Seems like it is working. For my pickup, since I'm going to put the engine dust pans back in, I'll have to make the bracket lower. Hopefully it won't lower the filter below the oil pan bottom. If it does I may need to find a shorter filter, and change it more often.
  16. Hi, I don't know anywhere to buy the wood, but it had enough still there that I am going to be able to rebuild it from those pieces as a pattern. I've got a wood working shop in the top floor of my barn.
  17. I will take some pictures, and add them in the next few days.
  18. The mystery continues. Turns out the shift pattern is standard, with reverse to the left and forward. And it has 4.10 gears. The engine is number in the pickup is C864xxx, and my speedster is a D engine and has the earlier reverse shift pattern!
  19. I don't know the history of this truck, but I have a good idea of its future. It will be kept as close to what it is now, as is possible. I plan to make it drivable, solid and sturdy. I have already pulled the oil pan for cleaning, the head is off and the valves are done. Cylinders look good. I'm going to add an oil filter just like I did on my speedster, because that seems to be working really well. Next I'll go through the carburetor, fuel pump, starter and generator. Then I'll work my way out from there, making sure everything works, doing the wiring over, making sure everything moves the way it should. Then drive.
  20. Yeah, I've got no toe plate, it may be long gone... The wood floor boards are in good shape, though. Maybe replaced when the body switch happened? The cab and top both look like the they were a 25 screen side- the split windshield, and the curved, angled wood roof, and four hinges per door. The 25 steering box and timing/idle speed controls don't quite match up to the 27 engine. Are there any other places that the body number would be? Also, it still has a gas ration sticker on the windshield!
  21. It seems to be a 1927 car chassis, 116 wheelbase with A780xxx stamped on the passenger farm rail above the shackle of the front spring. I can't find a toeplate. Would it be on the wood floor board, or the metal of the firewall? It came with the 24" wood wheels. Had the heavy duty 8 ply 33 x 4-1/2 tires too. Really makes me wonder about its history.
  22. The mystery continues... Frame number is A-780429 wheelbase is 116" This is definitely not a surviving 1 of 186 1925 pick up, that's for sure, but still awesome none the less. The engine number(C864xxx) and frame number are not off by that much, so maybe it is original to the chassis?
  23. The paperwork number starts with A. I'll dig into the frame number next. What would the different letters indicate?
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