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Posts posted by macc

  1. After work today I connected the stator rod to the carburetor linkage. Then took it for a drive through the neighborhood. The freeway was bumper to bumper with traffic so I couldn’t take it on the highway. First thing I noticed was it gave me a harder pedal. I had to put all my strength into it. I’m sure it is in desperate need of some lubrication. From a stop the pedal feels normal until I push into it. But other then that it drove great! It actually drives better then it has ever been. I got up to about 30mph and stepped on it till probably around 55-60mph. It didn’t have a kick down feel to it when I stepped on it like I expected it to. It had more of a smooth increase of. speed 


    I checked my linkage with what the book said. And Everything looks in accordance. My linkage looks to be further apart then the stock version. Her are some pics of the linkage close up both wide open and closed. 




  2. 41 minutes ago, Turbinator said:

    Sir, took me 3 seasons to get my original design AC working and a significant amount of $ for me. I replaced every component I could buy new. Were I to do the AC again I think I would take my car to a shop that has an iron clad reputation for working on vintage cars AC.

    Give them the keys a deposit check and  tell them to call me when they have cold air. If I couldn’t do that I’d only drive on cool days with low humidity.


    Yeah driving in the heat is no fun, it’s been in the 100’s lately here. You add that with traffic and it’s a nightmare! 

    I have been looking into the vintage air kits they have. Those might be a good option. 

    • Like 1
  3. 44 minutes ago, RivNut said:

    If your car is not air conditioned, you don't need a return line.  Even if you just wanted to add one, you'd have to swap put sending units so the return line would have a fitting at the tank.

    Oh ok yeah I don’t have a/c. Wish I did though 

  4. I checked on the vacuum lines today and I had the correct hose going to the vacuum advance.

    next I checked to see if the carb was getting gas through the jets. It’s getting a healthy squirt in both front barrels but I didn’t see anything in the secondaries. 

    Does anyone have a like to the check valvei need for the power brakes? I read in the manual all about it but I doesn’t show it in the diagram?

  5. 3 hours ago, RivNut said:

    The dash pot slows doen the throttle blades as they close. If they werent slowed down, they would slam shut and the engine could die if the idle circuits weren't doing their thing.


    Look fot that original carb.  You could probably get along with an AFB from a 59 - 63 as long as it came from a 401.  CarbKing might be able to tell us if there are differences.

    Oh ok I got it thanks. I’ll have to start searching for a correct carb. 

  6. 11 hours ago, RivNut said:

    Glass fuel filter😱.


    The original is a metal canister, which won't break and spill fuel on a hot engine that has electrical connections.

    You're also missing the dash pot under the carb linkage.

    Yes I know it’s always frowned upon using those glass filters. I should get the correct one so I can hook up the return line as well. 

    What is the purpose of the dash pot? Is it  necessary? It sounds like I would benefit from having the correct carburetor on the car. I’ll have to do some searching and see if I can fine one. 

  7. 13 hours ago, telriv said:

    You could hookup the rod to the carb. & see what happens. IF it works then all that needs to be done is adjust it as per the manual. You do have a chassis manual don't you???   IF not you will find pretty quickly it will be your best friend.

    Next we need to find out if the hose plugged onto the carb. for the vacuum advance is ported or manifold vacuum.   To find out, start the car & pull off the hose & stick your finger to it. IF it sucks on your finger it's manifold vacuum. IF it does not give it a little throttle to see if now it sucks.  IF it does now that's the one for the vacuum advance. The other on the left side of the carb. will then be manifold vacuum which will be hooked up to the vacuum control for the HVAC system.

    Where the power brake hose is hooked up now originally it had a one way valve coming off one end & the brake vacuum supply was at the other end facing the left.


    Tom T.

    Ok I’ll hook it up tonight and see how it works out. And check to see I have the correct vacuum  port connected. Sounds like an easy check. 

    Yes I do have the chassis manual as well as the body manual. They both have been big help. I’ll take a look in it tonight and see if I can see wheee that one way valve you are talking about is located. 

  8. 8 hours ago, telriv said:

    IF it's been going a few hundred miles a year in 8 years I am almost willing to bet it needs points. After 8 years the rubbing block has worn down. Unless of course if it has an electronic conversion. Even with that the dist. needs service & adjustments periodically although lubing the rubbing block is not one of them.

    By the pic. & color I'm assuming we are talking about a '63 Riv???  Is the passing gear/switch pitch hooked up???  Leaving an awful lot of performance on the table without it hooked up.

    How is the vacuum for the HVAC system being supplied. The one way valve is missing from the front of the manifold where the power brake hose is???

    Here  are some more pics of the carb and brake hose. What’s this one way valve you peak of?

    in the second pic you can see the transmission kick down linkage sitting on top of the valve cover 



  9. I took it for a cruise after work today to see how things were after I tinkered with it last night. I found that the car performs much better but there still is a slight hesitation when you punch the accelerator during a cruise. Off the line it is a little sluggish but not too bad. This is much better then it was before when it would just simply nose dive till you backed off a bit. It never smoked but it did spit out black soot and was wet to the touch (it would leave black marks on the drive way from the pipes) that is now gone 👍 Also I used to be able to start it without using the choke (it has a manual choke) now it needs the choke on for a cold start. 


    Now to to answer some of your questions and suggestions. The fuel pump is fairly new I replaced it about a year ago. I did check the glass fuel filter and there is some debris in it so I’ll clean that out. I have not replaced the points god knows how old they are. I don’t have a dwell  meter so I’ll have to get one but I heard you can gap these with a feeler gauge. 

     Yes it is a 63 I should have said that in the first post. 401 motor also. The kick down linkage wasn’t hooked up when I got the car and I just never did. I’m guessing I should get that hooked up. As for the vacuum I have one post coming from the back of the carb to the passenger valve cover pcv valve. The front left small port is going to the vacuum advance on the distributor and the middle big one and the drivers side small one are both plugged. 




  10. Yesterday while driving home from a show my car started to hesitate under light acceleration the whole way home. It was fine off the line but once you got moving and tried to step on the gas it would fall on it’s face. The car has been fine all the way up to this point. It has a Carter AFB with a manual choke. I don’t believe it’s the original carb. The numbers on it are 9605s. About 8 years ago I had the carburetor rebuilt at a local shop because I was having issues with it running properly. And that fixed things all the way up to this point. I’ve always had a bunch of black soot coming out my tailpipes so I figured my carb needed some adjusting and that would take care of the bog issue. I spent about an hour last night adjusting the carb and driving around the block several times but just couldn’t get it right. At times it would get worse and some times it would get better but never got perfect. I checked the vacuum lines and they looked good I’m going to buy some carb cleaner after work today and spray around and look for any leaks. Is there anything else I should be looking at? Did I not get the idle mixture screws right? The car doesn’t see that many miles so I would think that the carb rebuild would still be good



  11. I’m in the middle of adding some phantom headlights in my 63. Like Steelman I used mid 90’s GM headlights and mounted them in the fenders. My question is on how to wire these up? I have the original plugs that came with the GM headlights they have 2 wires each. And the 63 has 2 wires for the high beams and 3 wires for the low beams. That I can tell from my book. Now what do I connect to what? 🤨

  12. 7 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

    Quite a few times I have removed the clamp bolt from battery cables and spread the end so I could file the pinching area. Then I reassembled with a new terminal clamp bolt. A lot of battery terminals out there just can't pinch anymore and no one fixes them.


    I will also solder on a new terminal or replace the cable before I clean or would use a clamp on repair terminal.


    That’s a good idea. Like you said those top post battery clamps always seem to run out of clamping space 

  13. We’ll I think I’ve fixed the problem. It seemed to be a connection problem on the positive terminal. I’ve had the battery cables on and off over a dozen times trying to figure it out it’s crazy. But I connected both battery cables this last time and tried to start the car. Turned the key to ON and my air compressors kicked on so that was a good sign tried to start it and it started to crank but instantly had no juice. As I cranked it I could see a little spark coming from the positive terminal.  So I disconnected the positive cable and re connected it and tried again same thing happed. This happened a few times. Then I tightened the hell out of the positive cable and vroom it fired right up. And every time after. Yes!!! I put the multimeter on the battery and it showed 12.8 volts and climbed all the way to 13.51 then it dropped down to around 13.40 and stayed there. Alternator showed the same reading. It’s crazy how something so simple managed to evade me🙃 all this time. But at least it was something simple. Thanks to everyone who offered up some suggestions they were greatly appreciated. It’s alway good to get a fresh set of eyes (or ears) when you’ve been banging your head against the wall trying to figure things out. 

  14. 1 hour ago, steelman said:

    Did you check the points? Next time, either replace the points or take them out and file them. Symptoms you describe happen when the points stick. Had it happen more than once.

    I’ll have to check on that one. But wouldn’t I still get power when I turned the key on even if the points are sticking?


    checked the points and they look good not sticking together 

  15. Thanks for the idea. I’m doing that now and I did notice that it appears the car has no ground straps from the engine to the firewall that I can see. It probably hasn’t had any in the 8 years I’ve had the car. I never removed any. I’m sure it’s not helping the situation not having any but the car has been working fine without them all these years. I’m going to add one just In case. The battery is showing 12 volts on the multimeter and the alternator is showing 6.6 volts

  16. I’ve been having some battery/charging system problems lately.  It all started when I was driving the car the other day went into the store when I came back out and tried to start the car the battery was dead. Turned the key and nothing no weak cranking, my air compressors didn’t come on nothing just dead as a door nail.  I tried to jump the car with my pick up truck to no avail. I ended up using the battery from my wife’s car and was able to get her home. I took the battery and alternator to the parts store for testing. They told me my battery was bad but my alternator was good. So I bought a new battery put everything back together and everything seemed to be working fine. Everything worked good I was able to drive the car for a few days but again the battery was dead as a door nail. I put my trickle charger on the battery for a couple days to get a full charge. Then took the alternator back to the store to check once again and they tll me that it checks out fine so I bought a new voltage regulator thinking this was the problem. Got back home and put everything back in the car and gave it another shot. Turned the key on and nothing dead as dead can be. I bought a multimeter and tested the battery it’s showing 12 volts. Now I’m at a loss. What else should I be looking at? 

  17. Thanks for the replies I'll have to get under her when this rain stops and take a look at that center support. As far as the missing fluid goes I noticed one of the tranny cooler lines was leaking so I'm guessing that's when it came from. Should be an easy fix. I park the car in my side yard on dirt so there no puddle of fluid on the ground that builds up. 

  18. I haven't driven my car since summer ended and when I went to start it the other day it had a good whine to it when it's in gear. More so in drive then low or reverse. I pulled the car out and checked the fluids and the tranny fluid was not even registering on the dipstick so I added fluid hoping the noise would go away. When I went to take it around the block as soon as I gave it a lil gas a loud knock came from under the car it sounded like the driveshaft was hitting something. It doesn't do it in reverse only in drive. And the tranny whine is still there. Anyone have an idea what might be going on? 

  19. Well I think I may have figured out where the rattle is coming from. After trying all your suggestions without any luck. I disconnected the transmission kick down linkage, really just because I was tired of having a stiff pedal, and drove the car around for a few weeks and didn't hear the rattle once. Took it for a nice long 2 hour drive from Sacramento to San Jose and didn't hear the rattle either, used up a quart of oil though. Well a week ago I connected the transmission kick down and the rattle is back.

  20. Thanks for all the suggestions. Unfortunately I've been out of work and have been unable to look into this further. But can't do anything without money first right. The last time I drove the car it only made the sound for a lil while then it was gone for the rest of the day. Really weird. I haven't noticed any change in performance at all. It's just a liil embarrassing pulling away from a stop light when the car is making a weird sound. Kinda takes the cool away haha. As soon as I'm back home I'll give those suggestions a try.

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