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Everything posted by Corvanti

  1. here you go: explore the "Reatta Owners Journal" - you'll find lots of info.
  2. i bought some parts from them when i had my Corvettes 5 to 7 years ago. the shipping costs were in order of John's example above. the Part prices were much lower than the local dealer. these were dealer only parts - i always checked ebay/amazon first and were not available. my biggest complaint with GM Parts Direct was the shipping time - 10 days to 2 weeks. maybe this was before they went with the new shipper(?)...
  3. Corvanti


    in NC, anything 15 mph over the speed limit "may" get you arrested - usually not unless there's another violation like DWI (automatic trip to the pokey, of course) or someone that needs an attitude adjustment. if just cited, the court fines & costs are very high and your car insurance will skyrocket or be cancelled if the speed was outrageous. the fastest i've ever gone was when i was a mere yout' in So-Cal. 115+ in my '68 Datsun Fairlady 2000 Roadster. she had more left in her, but i was coming up on a traffic light. i was tempted many times when i had Corvettes to see what they could do but resisted the urge. plus the State Troopers here have no qualms busting a fellow Law Enforcement Officer...
  4. about the dimmer switch - mine wasn't working when i purchased my Reatta. some CRC contact cleaner did the trick. i always try the "cheap, fast and easy" repairs first!
  5. there's a lot of folks in Canada that belong to the Studebaker Club that get around the "no shipping to Canada" by having the item mailed to a trusted friend in the U.S. - around the border. the friends then either meet somewhere or he mails it in a bigger plain box to Canada. idk how the mailing part would go with the postal authorities - if that's why the seller(s) won't ship it to Canada, or they just don't want to go thru any hassles regarding "international shipping"... i agree with John that the unit is pricey, etc. and idk if they would give you the $100 core charge back since i assume you have the stock one in the Reatta.
  6. more excellent show pics! i also liked that 1 pic of the boot/belt/food provider. had some fried 'gator tail at a street fair - tasted like a cross between frog legs and chicken.
  7. here's the link that will take you here directly
  8. AACA is back up, at least for now. second time in the past week. someone on another AACA forum stated it has been spammed by North Korea! no problem seeing pics here. using Firefox.
  9. i never had the Reatta on a tow dolly, but many other vehicles. remember, if the vehicle has an automatic transmission, the drive wheels need to either be on the dolly or the driveshaft(s) taken out or tranny damage will likely occur.
  10. i had a 5-speed manual trans in my '88 Chevy Beretta GT 2.8L. idk if it could be made fit the 3.8L though...
  11. no problem here signing on a couple minutes ago.
  12. with the additional info, i'd replace the "new" ICM first. soon after i purchased my Reatta, i had the same crank sensor problem as "2seater" had with it. make sure to check the crankshaft (harmonic) balancer for any cracks/missing in the rubber, both sides. however small, that may cause a no start issue. the sensor gap is as thin as a matchbook cover and the balancer can wobble enough without seeing it while running. also, rule out any fuel pump problems with the pressure check and check the fuel pressure regulator. info on that can be found at the tutorials in the "Reatta Owners Journal": i doubt it's the MAF, but i'd clean it with spray CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner if it hasn't been done in awhile. re: the E041 code - if it comes back - i lucked out since it went away after i cleaned the cam sensor connection with electronic cleaner. hope this helps.
  13. re: the Trailblazer - it's possibly a broken wire somewhere in the steering column. that happened to my '99 Firebird i had a few years ago. other than a bad switch, that seems to be the second causal factor in that era of GM, the no start problem after "the usual" is ruled out. it's a pita to find/fix that and i had another car project i was working on. i had her towed to a trusted local service garage that fixed it. the cost was around $350 (in 2012) - mainly in labor charges.- hope this helps...
  14. George, it's fairly rare for "classics" (yes, all Reattas are now considered that (over 25 years old), to recoup expenses from new parts, etc. i "lucked out" when i sold my '89. i got about 25% of my parts $$$ back - not including my "free sweat labor", plus my buying price. i still think they will go up in value somewhat as mid-age guys start looking for a entry level classic to play with - even decent "daily drivers". the best way for this to happen it to get them out to Car Shows and spread the Reatta word!
  15. i like it ok. my problem would be the brightness of the remaining bulbs that drivers could see clearly behind you when necessary. perhaps get some LED's (cheap on e-bay and other places) - that should brighten it up some, and look cooler.
  16. on my '51 Studebaker spark plugs (and other older cars), i have used a few drops of WD-40 on the threads - especially on plugs that weren't overtightened - just a bit "squeaky" screwing them out. it was probably due to a loose plug or something worse, like a bad head gasket getting moisture up there. i don't see any problem using a little anti-seize on the Reatta plugs. after checking for the correct gap, just make sure they are tightened/torqued to spec.
  17. pics would help. if you don't like the wheels, then change them. with your "bone jarring experiences", i'd have your suspension parts (struts, etc.) checked before anything else. the old susp parts seem to be a fairly common problem...
  18. ol' yeller, check out these ROJ wheel tutorials: and:
  19. i agree with all of the above. one thing i do instead of cutting the fan lower if it's getting too cold, i put it on bi-level - if that is the problem. it shouldn't be a problem to check the evaporator for crud yourself. i'd also find a reputable A/C shop to take a look at it. seems the dealer just wants your $$$. a shot of coolant (134a)? and a leak check would be my next step. hope this helps.
  20. John (and fellow blog followers), for ethanol free gas stations - check out: looks like there is one station in Marshall and many more in Virginia.
  21. Fox, not disagreeing with all said, but with what Ronnie has informed folks in the past, the MPG screen is not entirely accurate. without going thru all the old posts, i'd suggest a cleaning of the MAF with a proper cleaner. and probably more important, doing the "Seafoam" procedure for the fuel system as shown here:
  22. i got a set of "wheelie things" about 5 years ago at Harbor Freight. before using them, i checked the wheels for movement. kind of hard to do so. i liberally sprayed some PB Blaster on the wheels - worked fine after that.
  23. for non-ethanol gas availability in your area, check:
  24. AFAIK, the pulsator makes the fuel pump quieter (like a muffler)... i don't see noise as a problem - it's not that loud without one. i don't want this to sound mean, but after 4 pages with info coming in spurts - the OP needs a new fuel pump, period! i'll apologize to all if that is not the problem.