whitewatersky

guys, this sounds like heaps of fun. if only I could be there. one of these years I'll make it.... enjoy. gotta love the name: 'brown bag' judging Olde English in the brown bag ?

thanks. I actually got the sucker off with a bit of prying. actually, after levering it almost completely off, my mate helping me gave it a twist a few degrees around and it came off. so maybe I should have just tried turning it, as the inside of the cap seems to indicate it is removed by turning it.... Tom - do you mean a ring that slips into the groove near the end of the pin that stops the pin pulling out of the hinge ? I'll put one on after we get the welding job done. thanks again all

appreciate the advice fellas. got back into this last night. we'll go with the welding. one of our mechanics here is experienced. we have the blanket and I'll suggest the wet rags too. I got a better look once we removed some trim: another question... any hints on removing the seat back on the other side ? does this cap come off ? or is it part of the whole trim cover ? it has received a bit of a hiding somewhere in its life, with evidence of a few bashes here n there

Great pics. Thanks guys

Legends! Thanks heaps guys. Midnight here - I'll give it a shot tomoro

here's another thread showing centre console removal info if anyone hasn't seen it and is wondering whether to remove it for carpet installation on a 1st gen Riv (like me) http://forums.aaca.org/f177/center-console-322096.html

which carpet supplier did you choose? My Clark's Corvair back section of carpet is a lot bigger than the original carpet so I think it'll be hard to fit without removing the console. as a hint for 65 owners, my 1965 Chassis manual shows the console or "INSTRUMENT PANEL" on 10-93 and 10-94

hey there Sharknose - thanks ! do you mean pull it upward towards the dash ? I'll give it a shot tomorrow

so... what was the outcome here?

A question for Jim - do you also have the 65 Body Service Manual on CD ? Or just the buleetins? I don't really wanna have such a fat booklet posted to Australia if I can avoid it. I'd be happy to pay whatever someone charges for a CD and then print any needed pages myself to save the trees and postage

yeah - i just realised that I never ended up ordering the body manual - I have the service manual but forgot about there being a separate book until just now when I looked to see whether I could find a diagram of the guts of my front seats... (to repair a broken hinge) thanks for the headsup - I'll order it tonight !

ummm . maybe a silly question, but how do you remove the accelerator pedal on the 65 ? I wanna put the front carpet in over the next few days...

thanks for the info Ron. yeah - i must admit I was looking long n hard at the carpet last night wondering if it'd be worth the drama. - that stretching over the nail strip is what had me a little nervous. as Ed said back when I hadn't even received the car here in Oz, the carpet isn't too bad at all in the car. I'm just doing it to give it a good freshen up. I don't think the door carpet will detract at all. I'll get everything else sorted and install the door trims. if it looks dodgy I can tackle it later. Thanks!

wow ! that interior looked so good in those first coupla pics... hmmm makes me think I really should go to town preparing my floor before the new carpet...

resurrecting this thread since I now have my carpet - I decided to get it anyway since I was ordering fuzzies/rubber from Clarks. As Part of the ongoing restoration I'll install it since I have the seats out. Ron - just thought I'd ask the process you went thru when replacing the door carpet, as I don't really want to remove the carpet and find that I've got a(nother) major job ahead of me. I'm sure everyone can relate that it gets a little overwhelming (annoying?) to see the car in pieces and a seemingly never-ending list of work in the way of my next drive in the Riv. There's the chrome trim that runs thru the door from front to back - over the edges where the vinyl and carpet meet. You can see my front door trim at the left of this pic (not the deluxe trim) I assume I'll have to remove that chrome piece. Does the vinyl trim around the bottom edge of the door need to be stitched to the carpet? Did you glue the carpet to the door panel? thanks !

this is potentially of interest to me too. I just broke my new Waldron's muffler outta the box on Friday cos my workshop guys had a bit of time to install it. I thought I'd do it right and get a muffler that's based on the original. clever right? following engineer's designs. bolt straight on.... What I didn't stop to consider was whether my 47 year old car currently has a muffler that resembles the original.... hmmmm. nope.... DOH ! current muffler: New muffler (crudely using my hand for scale): I have it booked into the local exhaust experts tomoro morning. hopefully they can fashion something. might need to get sexy new tail pipes too...

AWE$OME !! Congrats ! what month/issue is it? We'll get it down here in Oz - I wanna pick it up

Cool! I might just remove it to clean the doors out. But of dust and debris down there. Thanks for the reassurance

The drivers side was easy to remove door fuzzies. I too found the passenger side was tough because of the top of the window glass covering the fuzzy screw near the qtr window and midway along the window. where door skin removal is mentioned above do you guys men outer metal skin? . In our quest to change the door fuzzies I was hoping we could avoid removing the outer door skin when trying to remove the chrome piece On the passenger side. Thankfully we managed to get the (initially inaccessible) screw at the door hinge end of the fuzzy off by removing the shorter chrome piece below the Qtr window. We then unscrewed the 3 screws holding the outer skin in place immediately below the Qtr window. That enabled us to pull the metal skin outward enought to get a better angle on the screws. Didn't need to unbolt any other door skin bolts. I may be paranoid/clueless but I was just worried about removing that outer skin for fear of it not fitting again, cracking paint or simply opening the cat up to more rust potential

Ta Bob. Actually, yeah, the screw holding the chrome required some careful work. One of them needed drilling cos it was rusted into place. Dropped the blooming Phillips head attachment from the ratchet screwdriver down into te body below the rear window... Doh. Needs me a magnet to try'n pick it up, methinks.... The rivet and small screw ideas are sounding appealing. While i'm out n aboot I'll see if one of our regular trimmers we use in town has the stapler and slightly thinner staples (& hopefully only a small fee for his trouble) so as to match the original method. Might save me some time.... Just outta interest (& 4 the benefit of anyone else reading this In future) did those CaRs fuzzies have matching holes and come with the appropriately sized staples ? Or just the screws? If so, did u put the screws only on the ends? Or equidistant along the fuzzies? I'll take a few pics of mine tomoro

on this issue, just as a headsup, i ordered all the rubbers and fuzzes from clarks corsair: Clark's Corvair Parts, Inc. - Corvair Parts Catalog - Over 12,000 parts anyhooo i have my rear window (1965 Riv) skins and chrome trims off (thanks to mucho help from my work mate Dan) the holes punched in the fuzzies (thru which the staples are meant to pass) don't align to the holes in the door trim and the chrome trims. (trim/chrome has 4 holes, supplied new fusses have only 3 in different positions and are SLIGHTLY differently bent so the fuzzes will need some bending, which won't be easy cos they have a metal strip thru them) just so yas know..... bit of a drag, cos I haft drill new holes in either: a) the fuzzes, or the trim/chrome I think it'll be option a) above also, the supplied staples are phrikkin phat and will be a bee-yatch to: a) fit thru the original holes in the skin/chrome (cos the original staples were thinner so passed thru smaller holes) fold and tighten into place so the glass doesn't get scratched by the staples.... dunno whether to get thinner staples (more like the factory originals) or take it to a trimmer in the hope he has a ballsy stapler that'll crunch 'em nice and tight so the fuzzes are secure and free of the glass after re-reading this, did anyone get fuzzes from a different supplier that DON'T have these issues: - # of holes - alignment of holes - slightly mis-aligned shape of fuzzie strips

my exhaust from Waldrons has hit Aussie shores. I'll let everyone know what it's like once it arrives at my place and is fitted. i didn't get new pipes

thanks Rex. I'll give it a crack. hopefully easy t o get the seat vinyl back together

hi y'all, just a question but also maybe of interest to anyone with a sagging back now I have my seats out for carpet installation, I thought I'd see what's doin with my saggy front seatback It wasn't as square as the passenger's, so I put them up on the bench side by side and compared things. I decided to remove the chrome protector trim and viola, there's our culprit As you can see, the metal has snapped at the end where the pin pokes into the base of the seat. I haven't unclipped the vinyl "staples" hold the seat side and back together cos I worry I won't get it back together just wondering whether anyone else has done this repair and if so, did it require the whole length of steel with the hinge/pin at the end, or whether it's likely to hold up if welded back on...