riomar000

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About riomar000

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  • Birthday 09/18/1989

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    I've got a black on black '63 riviera project and need all the help in can get.

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  1. Come to the Grand Canyon state. No rust, no emissions, no problems. The roads in AZ are also some of the best in the country. I don't think i've ever hit a pothole in my life. We may only have two seasons but we have everything except an ocean. In many cases you're only an hour away from something beautiful.
  2. Start with the easy stuff that could go wrong. Battery cables to the horn relay may be loose, the starter wires may be corroded or grounding out somehow. If all the wired connections check out fine then you may have to rebuild or replace the starter.
  3. If you're completely unfamiliar with carbureted motors it could take 30-45 seconds to start but in my experience no engine should ever take that long to start. You may have something else wrong with your car possibly needing a carb rebuild or timing adjustment. Some extra info could clear the water like how long does it sit between starts and how old is the engine? If you're confident you have everything lined up and adjusted correctly i will usually pump the gas about three times and hold down the accelerator just slightly then fire her up letting it idle a little high for no more than ten seconds then she's ready to fully warm up on her own. -Mario
  4. I had my engine rebuilt by my local napa and they did a wonderful job. The engine runs perfectly and they completely backed up their work telling me that if anything goes wrong regarding the rebuild they'd fix it. I'm not sure if he (the mechanic that rebuilt it) put hardened seats in but he did say the seats were a special seat for the crappy gas we have now or something along those lines.
  5. I'm in need of a drive shaft support/carrier bearing assembly for a '63 Buick riviera. From what i understand a support from a 64 or later WILL NOT WORK so it's gotta be original and in near new condition. I also have a complete 63 riviera parts car if anyone is interested in buying or trading parts for parts i will consider any offers. Mario
  6. If i were in your shoes i'd do the steelman conversion, get a grill from a '65, and call it a day. That is of course unless you are 100% set on having full functional clam shells.
  7. I'm aware of the transmission change but it seems to reason that the drive shaft center support, situated between the frame where it "X"s, couldn't have changed that drastically. Here's a picture of a brand new one from opg who says it's for 64-70 rivieras.
  8. Hello again everybody, this time my question is in regards to the drive shaft support. First of all, being that it is an AZ car, all the rubber on it is shot and in need of replacement. I've found a couple shaft supports online and they all say 64-70. Do they not put the 63 in there because they hate me or will they actually fit on 63's? Also if anyone knows where to get a replacement other than at like opg, cars inc., or classic buick parts that would be super helpful. Secondly there were a couple of spacers that came out when i pulled the drive shaft. Would these majorly effect the operation of the car or can i leave them off? Here's a pic to help out. Really a drawing because my camera is being anal. The dimensions are 3 1/4" x 1 1/8" x 1/16" Thanks again, Mario
  9. Yeah, the no title is sketchy. Try and get as much info as you can from the seller about that title cause if you buy a car without a title and it turns up stolen then the owner might want it back and that may be a can of worms you you really don't want to open.
  10. I know white on white would have been factory and white interior would have been an option. Unfortunately it looks to be a '64, the "R" hood emblem is a dead give away as '63's didn't have the stylized Riviera "R" yet. At least you won't have to deal with that dynaflow. Being that, from what the pics tell me, it is a '64 then it would come with a 425 cause that was the standard engine for '64. Good eye on the caps cause as you suspected they are the optional ones. It also looks like that one could have the electro-cruise on it as well. Here's a picture of my '63. It's a factory custom and laden with options that as of now need repair or restoration. I kinda wish it had less options now but it'll all be worth it in the end. Notice the absence of a hood ornament.
  11. Just got some sweet shiny new chrome gauges got them all hooked up and running and the oil pressure is reading 35 p.s.i. My question is simply how much pressure should there be on this 401? Thank you mucho.
  12. So I've got a 401 nailhead in my 63' riv and was wondering what my oil pressure should be. That's all, and thanks again.
  13. I know it's a little late and you probably already have it done but I used a satin metallic nickle from krylon on the steering column cover and it looks awesome! Though the 3m tape idea will work i've never had a problem with wiping it off with some good ol' lacquer thinner and a paper towel. The paper towel will stay on top of the clams where you wanna remove paint leaving the other surfaces untouched.
  14. I've got a black on black '63 too. It's no where as put together as yours... Yet. Will you be doing any mods or resto? You also forgot one of the most important pictures. The engine.
  15. I'm just a few short days from firing up my rebuilt 401 nailhead for my riv and have just a couple questions. First, I was wondering since the engine has been sitting for a couple months now if there is any priming or pre-lubing i should do before initial start up? Secondly, should I use any special oil for break in or will the stuff that'll be run in the engine for it's life suffice? Finally, what kind of break-in procedure should i follow or is 20 minutes at 2000-2400 good enough? I'm just looking to treat my engine as good as possible to ensure a long life. Muchas Gracias ROA. Mario