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Buick36-49

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Everything posted by Buick36-49

  1. Hello, M_Harrison, I need the same things for my '36 Buick Series 40. Need choke rod, throttle linkage, starter button linkage. Thanks robert
  2. 1936 Buick Series 40 vacuum starter switch rod. Does anyone have one of those or know where I can get one> Thanks robert
  3. WOW!! What a big progject. '39 Buicks are beatiful cars...a little different style than what you would expect from a Buick!! I love these at the show...BEST OF LUCK!! Robert
  4. Really, well, i guess to fill them, you just have to take out the little bolt on the top. They are REALLY tight, I was trying to get one off. Where do you find fork fluid. Thanks for your reply Grant...my '36 has lots of little issue now with the front end. We had to put another engine in it as mine had three cracks when bought. did not see that. Robert
  5. Mine must be missing something, because there is a no resistance at all. They just go up and down, and you can't even hear anything inside of them doing anything. Just the arm goes up and down. Probally frozen on the inside. robert
  6. Yes, this is correct...see picture attached of my 36 engine and trans out of the car. Its for the bearing
  7. I have a 1936 Buick Special. Both shocks are dry as a bone, When the shocks are dry can you move them up and down with out any pressure at all? In other words, does the shocks seem to be very loose? I can move mine when I disconect the upper control arm pins. Robert
  8. Hello Rod, This box that you are refering too is that one in the picture above? If so, I belive this to be the horn relay. Robert
  9. Hi Ray, Thanks for your reply! Yes, that's about what mine does as you mentioned. I had put another engine in my '36 because when I bought the car the existing engine had three cracks in the water jacket (none in the head). The other engine did the same thing as this one...so I guess thats how they run. Have you tried flushing out your radiator and water jacket. Does your car have a heater core? This (I think) helps mine run cooler. I use the green anti freeze 3 year stuff. Robert See attachment for the heater core lines...
  10. Yes, I am here...I gave up for the day. The little tapper pin is out. Is that the same as the locking pin? So I removed the grease fitting that was attached and found a bolt with the same thread pattern and screwed that into the pin, this way I have a way to get vice grips on it. So I put the flame on the bottom of the knuckle and tried pulling out the pin, there is no pressure on it from the spring or anything else. The pin is so tight in the knuckle that you can not even rotate it. But where the control arms are it is so warn and loose that there is a lot of play. Should I rig something up with kerosene and soak the knuckle in there for a few days? I also, sent this message to you in your email. Mine is Bobby791980@yahoo.com
  11. Hello Ray, So as your driving about 30 to 45mpg lets say up a hill. Your oil pressure is about 30lbs hot? That what mine does. Thanks robert
  12. Hello Stan, I tried again today to get the pivot pin as per your detail directions. I got the spring out and still can not get the pin out. I put a lot of heat on it and tried pulling it out with vice grips. It won’t budge. The pin is loose on the otter part where the bushings are worn, but It’s really tight in the knuckle. Locking pin is removed. Can’t figure this out. Thanks again! Robert P.S. Try to open the attachment here.
  13. Hello Stan! Thanks for detailing this out for me. I guess I will have to give it a shot when the 8 degree weather gets warmer up here! It is really that easy? I guess once you complete the steps you provided, the bottom pin can be removed freely? The pins on the passenger side are so warn, the guy would not pass it for inspection. As I drove the car too, the front wheels would start to wobble going about 45mph on a straight highway. Very dangerous, you almost have come to a stop…to make the wheels stop wobbling. I also noticed a bent rim, so that must have been triggering the wobble. Plus I have to fix the stabalizer bar again, links keep breaking. Prob from the wobble. The leaver shocks have nothing left either. Robert
  14. Oh, that sounds great than. Thanks for your reply Joel! I was able to get the glove box lock out last night, very simple. I am just hoping that the ignition lock is the same. When I bought the car, the guy said the keys were lost many many years ago... so when I looked up on how to change the lock, it shows that the special has a twist of head bolt that holds the lock and part of the steering colum to the bottom of the dash. So I looked, and noticed that the twist off head bolt STILL has the bolt head. Of course I did not touch this...so I am wondering if this was something that Buick factory back in the day did not complete till the car was dilivered to the dealer/owner? Very weird. Because if somebody was to drill this out to change, i don't think they'd use a twist off head again similar to the factory. Robert:confused:
  15. Well, I look at it this way in my experience, I do a lot of driving with my daily cars (over 110 miles a day to work) and I was able to easy put 260k miles on my car and the engine still runs like new. (oil changed every 3k) The Buick is not a daily driver, so, I change the oil every spring and if I am lucky I will put 500 miles on them in one year at best. So, a filter (I think) prob won’t be necessary. I have an old riding lawn mower from 1994 and who knows how many hours are on it ( A LOT) and it never had a filter like the new ones have today, and it still runs great, we just did oil changes every 4th cutting. (It’s our method to the madness I guess) I was just hoping the detergent oil was not harming it more by having the dirt particules suspended and circling back through bearings and such...I really want to stay away fron non-detergent now that all dirt and sludge was removed from the block, pan, valve train, lifters. Robert
  16. Hello All, Quick question…how do you remove the steering wheel lock from the column in 1936 Buick Series 40. The wheel is not locked. (Lost the keys when bought). The little nut that is supposed to have the twist off head is still there!! No drilling. The lock has a little hole that looks like you can put a paper clip in there. OR BETTER YET. Can I take out the glove box lock and have a lock smith make me a key somehow…It would be easier and cheaper, plus I would have one key to do the doors, truck, ign and glove box. (just like my 49 buick) Thanks Robert
  17. Thanks JohnD1956, We've replaced the coil as well with a new one (6volt). I am thinking too that it has something to do with the fuel and air mix. When we took the manifolds off a few years ago, they were frozen together, so we had to drill out the froze bolts to separate them from each other. We then had a machine shop (try) to grind down and drill new bolt holes. To this day the manifolds do not line up correctly. But we were almost sure that the intake did not leak. (Exhaust does leak and blackened the valve cover). We try spraying starting fluid around the intake to detect a leak (idle does not go up). Carb bolts are tight new heat insulator Robert
  18. Would you guys think it might have something to do with the valves. I changed the fuel filter...but engine has almost no power with throttle wide open.
  19. Thank you both for your replies. I’ve just cleaned out the engine took out the valve train cleaned that out. Connecting rods and most of block. and put in new rings, it does not smoke. I’ve just started using detergent oil (SAE-30) but there is no filter installed, should I install one and would it bring down the existing oil pressure? Thanks again. robert
  20. Hello Jim, Thanks for your reply. What we thought was the carburetor, we deceived to rebuilt it. Then we bought another one that was rebuilt. So, I believe it’s not the carb. We did do a compression test and found that the first 2 cylinders were down around 6lbs. The third cylinder was down around 4lbs. And the rest were fine. Engine has great oil pressure even at hot idle. But the engine seem to have a lot of power even when those symptoms existed. Robert
  21. Hello, I’ve put up a couple of posts for my two cars (trying to learn more). I have a 1936 Buick special series 40 with 233 cube. I wanted to know, when I first start the engine cold, I get a high oil pressure reading of about 45lbs. (according to the gauge in the car) As the engine gets hot (1 hour drive, does not overheat stays around 180 degrees in summer) the oil pressure gauge goes to 30lbs at speeds around 45mph and 20lbs at idle. Is this anything to worry about? I am using SAE-30. No oil filter installed. Engine has no knock. Oil is dripping out of the valve train when I take off valve cover. Engine probably has around 92k miles has new rings, but not crank bearings or connecting rod bearings. Engine also was cleaned out really well...plus oil pump. Runs very smooth. Thanks Robert
  22. Hello, My 1949 Buick Super 248 straight eight (Dynaflow) recently started lacking power…a lot of power. For example going up slight grades at only 35-40mph. I’ve rebuilt the carburetor, put in new plugs, wires, coil, points, condenser, checked the fuel filter and pump. Even hooked up an aux 6volt electric pump…NO CHANGE. Still has lost most of it’s power. Runs fine at idle no miss or erratic idle. When driving it cruses a long fine, but when you put the peddle down to the floor, the engine bogs down and if you take you foot up a little, it seems to get more power. I drive this car about 50mph on a level highway and when I encounter a small hill, I lose so much power. Any ideas? I’ve even checked the values to make sure they were not hanging up. I do want to add though, that at idle, the engine starts develop blue smoke and when you race it, there is a cloud. Does not smoke when driving. Thanks Robert
  23. Hello Stan, Thanks for your reply! I don’t have the shop manual, but am familiar with the fact that you have to take pressure off of the springs. I was able to remove the “shock” (upper) pin easily by removing the locking bolt. For the (lower) pin I removed the small locking pin that is pressed into the knuckle with a lot of heat. Now, I am trying to either pull out or push out the lower control arm pin. Do I still have to remove the springs? I have a small shop book that does not say much, but mentions an arbor press? Not sure where to go with this one. Robert
  24. Hello Everyone, I am new to this whole form...Does anyone know or know anyone who is familiar with the 1936 Buick Special suspension. I need to remove and install the pivot pins in the lower control arms. How do you remove them and then install new one?:confused: THANKS Robert<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  25. Hello Everyone, I am new to this whole form...can't figure out how to post a new form question. Does anyone know or know anyone who is familiar with the 1936 Buick Special suspension. I need to remove and install the pivot pins in the lower control arms. How do you remove them and then install new one? THANKS Robert
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