Buick36-49
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Posts posted by Buick36-49
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Hell All,
1936 Buick Ring gear fixed!! This project was not too bad. The hardest part is to remove the old rivets that got sheared off in the first place.
1. We had to make a punch that could fit in holes in the carriage and then penetrate to the ring gear.
2. Next is to drill out the rivets about 1/4(suggested from my 1949 Buick shop manuel). This was hard because I kept breaking drill bits.
3. Once the rivets were weakened, you can just pound them out with a sledge hammer and a punch.
4. Next, would be to insert the Grade 8 5/16 bolts that are about 1.25 inches long. I was lucky enough to find bolts that did not have big heads or nuts.
5. Install them with lock washers and torque them down to about 40-50lbs.
I will be uploading a video sometime on youtube of the ring gear in action with the bolts.
Thanks for all your help.
Robert
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Hell All,
1936 Buick Ring gear fixed!! This project was not too bad. The hardest part is to remove the old rivets that got sheared off in the first place.
1. We had to make a punch that could fit in holes in the carriage and then penetrate to the ring gear.
2. Next is to drill out the rivets about 1/4(suggested from my 1949 Buick shop manuel). This was hard because I kept breaking drill bits.
3. Once the rivets were weakened, you can just pound them out with a sledge hammer and a punch.
4. Next, would be to insert the Grade 8 5/16 bolts that are about 1.25 inches long. I was lucky enough to find bolts that did not have big heads or nuts.
5. Install them with lock washers and torque them down to about 40-50lbs.
I will be uploading a video sometime on youtube of the ring gear in action with the bolts.
Thanks for all your help.
Robert
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Hello All,
Thanks for helping me along with the project! I have a most no time work on this between working to jobs. BUT, I did find time to get the parts I needed with the help of you guys guiding me.
I did manage to find some 5/16 grade 8 bolts from a small hard ware store. I am not thrilled that the bolts don’t have spacers and are threaded all the way to the head, but I think if I torque them down tight enough (start at around 35lbs cross tighten, then final tighten at 50 – 60 lbs) that should not move or get loose, I am also buying some lock nuts as well. These old ring gears have a 12 rivet pattern, that I am substituting bolts for. I also, put some bolts on last night and then spun the rear, nothing seems to bump or hit the case or the pinion gear!! So my fingers are crossed that this will work.
I’ll keep you all posted
Robert
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Dandy Dave
Thanks for your reply, I am not sure how the car was taken care of pre me. But I do know one thing, I had to replace the engine in it (three cracks in block). The guy who I bought it off of said the original transmission needed to be replaced, so the only thing not original (I guess) is the differential. So, I guess through years of many drivers with many habits, this should be the next thing to go. The gears are not chipped or broken so, that’s probably a good thing. Grade 8 bolts with small heads I guess would work.
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Thanks for replying both Mark Shaw and 50jetback. Also, thanks for giving me the dimensions of the bolts. This will be tricky. I have a 1949 Buick Super Series 50 along with the shop manual that explains that you must re-rivet the ring gear back on. But for the ’49 there does not seem to be much tolerance for the heads or nuts if you wanted to switch from rivets to bolts. However, while playing around last night with ’36 I’ve stuck in some cheap regular bolts with large heads about the size of the rivet heads on both sides of the case and ring gear. I guess my concern would be if the nuts would hit the pinion gear, but they did not. So, that what I am going to try finding is some grade 8 bolts and nuts.
Robert
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Hello,
Well to be honest, I don't know when I bought the car there was already gear oil in the rear. I just kept toping it off with 75w-90. But I only put maybe 500 miles on the car before they broke. I assume the car has around 92k by looking at the odometer.
robert
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Hello All,
Recently while coming back from a car show (60 miles round trip) in my 1936 Buick Special, at the bottom of my driveway the ring gear rivets went in the differential leaving me stuck.
Has anyone tired to put the ring gear back on with harden cap screws or bolts? If so, what is the correct length, width and toque specs?
I want to avoid having rivets put back in. The ring and pinion gears are not chipped, or broken. I also had the correct level of gear oil as well. What could possibly cause this? Everything is stock. Car has about 92k on the odom.
Any advice or suggestion would be appreciated.
Thanks
Robert
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Hello All,
Recently while coming back from a car show (60 miles round trip) in my 1936 Buick Special, at the bottom of my driveway the ring gear rivets went in the differential leaving me stuck.
Has anyone tired to put the ring gear back on with harden cap screws or bolts? If so, what is the correct length, width and toque specs?
I want to avoid having rivets put back in. The ring and pinion gears are not chipped, or broken. I also had the correct level of gear oil as well. What could possibly cause this? Everything is stock.
Any advice or suggestion would be appreciated.
Thanks
Robert
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That's really funny---didn't notice the date. Not sure I didn't buy that radio when listed 6 years ago.
Yes, but i was looking around on ebay, google, and such, and could not find any. So they must be rare. So I figured maybe if I post on here, i might have some luck.
Robert
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Hello All, I am looking to buy a radio for my 1936 buick special. It does not matter if it's the "Master" or the "Ranger" I just want to get one at a decent price... if anyone can direct me to someone who might be selling one. I'll even consider just the parts or th dial portion.
THANKS
Robert<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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Hello, I was looking to buy one or to maybe locate one for sale, i know this is an old one.
Robert
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Hello All, I am looking to buy a radio for my 1936 buick special. It does not matter if it's the "Master" or the "Ranger" I just want to get one at a decent price... if anyone can direct me to someone who might be selling one,
THANKS
Robert<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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Hello All, I am looking to buy a radio for my 1936 buick special. It does not matter if it's the "Master" or the "Ranger" I just want to get one at a decent price... if anyone can direct me to someone who might be selling one,
THANKS
Robert
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Hello, M_Harrison, I need the same things for my '36 Buick Series 40. Need choke rod, throttle linkage, starter button linkage.
Thanks
robert
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1936 Buick Series 40 vacuum starter switch rod. Does anyone have one of those or know where I can get one>
Thanks
robert
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WOW!! What a big progject. '39 Buicks are beatiful cars...a little different style than what you would expect from a Buick!! I love these at the show...BEST OF LUCK!!
Robert
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Really, well, i guess to fill them, you just have to take out the little bolt on the top. They are REALLY tight, I was trying to get one off.
Where do you find fork fluid.
Thanks for your reply Grant...my '36 has lots of little issue now with the front end. We had to put another engine in it as mine had three cracks when bought.
did not see that.Robert
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Mine must be missing something, because there is a no resistance at all. They just go up and down, and you can't even hear anything inside of them doing anything. Just the arm goes up and down. Probally frozen on the inside.
robert
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Yes, this is correct...see picture attached of my 36 engine and trans out of the car. Its for the bearing
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I have a 1936 Buick Special. Both shocks are dry as a bone, When the shocks are dry can you move them up and down with out any pressure at all? In other words, does the shocks seem to be very loose? I can move mine when I disconect the upper control arm pins.
Robert
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Hello Rod,
This box that you are refering too is that one in the picture above? If so, I belive this to be the horn relay.
Robert
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Hi Ray,
Thanks for your reply! Yes, that's about what mine does as you mentioned. I had put another engine in my '36 because when I bought the car the existing engine had three cracks in the water jacket (none in the head). The other engine did the same thing as this one...so I guess thats how they run.
Have you tried flushing out your radiator and water jacket. Does your car have a heater core? This (I think) helps mine run cooler. I use the green anti freeze 3 year stuff.
Robert
See attachment for the heater core lines...
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Yes, I am here...I gave up for the day.
The little tapper pin is out. Is that the same as the locking pin?
So I removed the grease fitting that was attached and found a bolt with the same thread pattern and screwed that into the pin, this way I have a way to get vice grips on it. So I put the flame on the bottom of the knuckle and tried pulling out the pin, there is no pressure on it from the spring or anything else. The pin is so tight in the knuckle that you can not even rotate it. But where the control arms are it is so warn and loose that there is a lot of play.
Should I rig something up with kerosene and soak the knuckle in there for a few days?
I also, sent this message to you in your email. Mine is Bobby791980@yahoo.com
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Hello Ray, So as your driving about 30 to 45mpg lets say up a hill. Your oil pressure is about 30lbs hot? That what mine does.
Thanks
robert
did not see that.
1936 Buick Special ring gear rivets broke
in Buick - General
Posted
Hello Kevin,
Really, I do have a Fastenal around here. Maybe I should replace the bolts I put in and try using Grade 10 bolts.
What I did use was Grade 8 5/16 X 1.25 and they seemed to bolt up fine. I've also went for a couple of rides and did not hear anthing, although I will be checking it to see if anything is under stress. But you did make a good point. I've wrote down your suggestion and may end up puting in the Grade 10 bolts with locking nuts just for good measure and a piece of mind! Thanks for your input.
Robert
P.S. I am new to all this stuff, but am very handy