Buick36-49
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Posts posted by Buick36-49
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Hello All,
It’s Robert again. Does anybody know if there is an upgrade to the timing cover for the ’36 Buick straight eight 233 engine? I have the rope seal, but unfortunately we did not “pack” the rope seal correctly so the oil is dripping bout of the front pulley especially when driving. The whole underside of the car is wet with oil. I am thinking that’s where most of my oil is going. During 300 miles I have to add 1 quart.
Is there an upgrade from the rope seal to a rubber seal using a newer strait eight timing cover (e.g. Buick 248 engine ’49 -53)
Thanks again
Robert
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Thanks Ben,</SPAN>
Yeah, I just got in my gaskets and am going to put the oil pan back on. Should see what happens. </SPAN>
I’ll keep you all posted.</SPAN>
Robert</SPAN>
No offense, JohnD, And I agree with you. I think 36-49 is worrying a bit much, but appreciate his concern. Robert, just drive it and don't worry so much.
Ben
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Yeah, </SPAN>
I know when I take it out on the highway after a long run the pressure goes to 30lbs at 50mph. 50mph is all I do in those cars. </SPAN>
In fact after a long run, the engine seems to run smoother. Does not run hot, prob around 185 and starts right up after you shut it down.
I hooked up a mech. oil pressure gauge and it shows around 12lbs hot after a run. Book calls for 10lbs at hot idle.
Did not mean to offend Ben, and I apologize if I did. My main thought was that not many in the 50's used a 50 Buick in a parade in the 100* heat. Even if they did, the car was new, the metal was new without 50+ years of rust build up and the radiator was also new without several inchies of sediment in the bottom tank. Older cars at that time were still much newer than today.I can see your point about the pressure being used to ensure adequate flow to the extremities. I think that most manufacturers consider longevity to be of value, and design stuff to extremes in the anticipation that at half the wear there would still be adequate coverage. Even today reputation is first and foremost. What sells when consumers bad mouth a product? They probably did not anticipate engines sitting around for 10- 30 years without being touched, and fossil oils hardening in the engine's arteries, then someone simply dropping gas down the carb and spinning it over to see if it would still go. At any rate, I do not think 20 lbs oil pressure going up hill at 40 MPH is of concern. It's not a new engine statistic, but it's also not a new engine. The engine is quiet and has sufficient power and is not blowing oil out of the seams, then it may as well be driven 1500 miles per year with peace of mind.
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Thanks again for the reply,</SPAN>
Yes, I was doing some reading and yes, high oil pressure does not mean that everything is getting “better” oil cushion. </SPAN>
This engine is warn, but still has good compression and runs smooth. I just makes me nervous to se 20lbs when hot going up a hill around 40mph. </SPAN>
Ben, did they over heat a lot back in the day in stop and go traffic. I like watching old movies and seeing the traffic jams, how did they not overheat. I know the Buicks do not have fan shrouds and they start to run hot in parades and such. </SPAN>
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Well,</SPAN>
The slight movement is not up and down more like front to back (front of engine to back). I would say that the slight movement might be around the thinness of two sheets of photo copy paper. A little more when the engine is hot. </SPAN>
Is that normal?
Thanks for your reply
</SPAN> -
Hello All,
Does anybody know what the torque specs should be for 1936 Buick straight eight 233 (series 40) connecting rods. Is it supposed to be 45lbs? Same as the 1949 Buick 248 cubic inch. I think my rods might not be toque enough. They have slight movement back and forth on the crank especially when the engine is hot.
Thanks
Robert
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So, what I’ve done was sand paper the cover plate and pump body down a little, than used a feeler gauge to measure the clearance after I’ve tighten up the screws on the cover plate (with out the round baffle). It looks like I got it down to .002. I know that the engine had around 90k on it so it leaves me to think that the whole engine is just a little looser and broken in. The pump probably a little worn, but seems nice and tight. I’ve ordered a new pan gasket and oil pump to body gasket and just waiting for them to arrive and put it all back together again and see what happens.
I’ve been using SAE40 weight now. I used to use SAE 30 and put in Lucus oil stabilizer, seems to help, but that’s what gives me 30lbs at 50mph hot.
I just can’t afford to have the whole thing rebuilt and don’t normally put many miles on the car (500 in a year if I am lucky). But when I do travel to car shows and such, they are usually about an 1 hour away. As mentioned, the car never over heats. Gets a little hot in parades but that’s normal, my ’49 does that too. They should have used fan shrouds back in the day.
Makes you wonder how they did it back in the day in the city at 100 degree weather. :confused:
Robert
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Yes, back in 2011 I think I posted the same question. I guess I am still a little nervous running it like this. I must have put about 1500 miles on the car and it still runs fine. Also, I guess that 29 is in the middle of the “N” on the ’49 gauge. The ’49 says I need 35lbs at 45mph and the ’36 is 45lbs at 45mph. So, I have to figure out what is normal. On the ’36 I still am getting at least 12lbs hot idle.
Robert
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Hello to old-tank and firstborn.
Thanks for your reply. It’s just weird because my 1949 Buick Super 248 has nice pressure even at idle and when you cursing it goes to upper end of the “N” normal on the gauge where the ’36 is just at 29lbs at around 55mph. Kind of scares me, no weird knocking, just a little piston slap.
I had a 36 Buick engine with the same mileage on it, but I got rid of that engine because of 3 cracks in the water jacket, I remember that one doing about the same thing with the oil pressure. Hot it was at an even ’30 lbs.
I still have all the parts to that engine except the block itself. (Still have the head, crank flywheel and everything.) I was thinking of stretching the spring only from the old pump and putting it in the “new” engine and see what might happen.
I guess comparing the oil pressure of my smooth running '49 to my '36 233 is not a good idea as engines change. The '49 has a dynaflow trans. with insert bearings.
Thanks
Robert
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Hi Wildcat465
Thanks for your reply
I did hook up a mechanics gauge and the dash gauge is accurate. Same difference. So what I m thinking maybe if I stretch the spring in the oil pump that might help. Engine does have around 90k on it. Does burn a little blue.
I checked the spring in the pump and it is 2 ¾ long.
Robert
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Buick 36 HOT OIL PRESSURE Update</SPAN>
Hello All,
</SPAN>I know I have other posts on here.... but still concerned.
Well today I took my 1936 Buick Special series 40 out for a ride. Now I am very fimalar with how the oils and viscosity work. However, my 36 has straight 40 weight in it thinking I could increase oil pressure. At startup I get an even 45lbs cold, but to my shock today I drove for about 40 min and notices that the oil pressure is dropping below 30lbs hot at speeds of 50mph. I believe I am getting around 12 lbs hot idle and 28 to 30 lbs running at around at 45mph. </SPAN>
I pulled off the oil pan and looked at all the rods, and what I find is the rods are no loose not up and down, but left to right (sliding on the crank maybe 1milimeter) they move on the crank. Is this normal? I also pulled off the oil pump and was thinking of stretching the oil relief valve spring, but did not. Should I to gain more hot running oil pressure. I’d like to see it at almost 40 hot. I just don’t want to blow this engine as 36 straight 233 eights are getting hard to find. Overall the engine runs good and smooth. Little smoke on startup and take off, but crusing no big blue clouds. </SPAN>
Buick experts please advise me before I send the whole engine out for $3500 rebuild in which I don’t have the money for. </SPAN>
Thanks</SPAN>
Robert</SPAN>
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Hello,
Do you still have this for sale?
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Wow, that looks great, prob a high compression engine.
Would you call this a High Five? Looks good and no guesses.Bernie
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Hello, As far as the floor goes, I did not have the $$$ to by the mat that was online for $250.00. I had a stock generic mat that was lying around with the lines. I referred to the old ’36 Buick owners repair manual and they had a picture of the floor mat with the lines running parallel (up and down) to the gas peddle. </SPAN>
So basically I cut up the old mat and put some sound and heat deader in first and glued the rubber mat down. I had to make a small “door” for the master cylinder fluid (next to the gas pedal). </SPAN>
Hope this helps, I’ve also re-made the turn as from the factory. Pictures.</SPAN>
Robert</SPAN>
Congratulations on a very nice '36 Buick! I was particularly drawn to your interior. Did you fabricate the rubber mat for the front flooring or were you able to locate a supplier for it? Thanks for any help.
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I guess 12lbs is the low end of normal at hot idle.
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Sounds OK to me.... Love that beehive grille!
:ee
Thanks Mark. Its just weird to me that pressure drops down to 30lbs at 45. Does not seem to go any lower. My '49 does this but not as much. It has only 67k miles.
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1936 Buick 223 External Oil Pressure gauge - Videos
Hello All,
I playing around with my 1936 Buick Special (233). I hooked up an external oil pressure gauge. Just for kicks I wanted to see if the dash gauge was correct in the readings. It seems to be.
The book calls for 45lbs @ 45mph. normal pressure. I am getting 30lbs maybe even 29lbs when the engine is really hot going around 45mph. in the summer after about 30min drive.
Does this seem normal for these engines? The dash gauge is correct. I also put on some videos of the cold engine, then a hot engine.
Engine has around 92k miles on it and never overheats.
Please advise me and calm my worries.
Thanks
Robert
Cold Oil Pressure:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10200800843321426&l=2210854168826962139
HOT OIL Pressure
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10200800892642659&l=1134617395448514292
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That's nothing. I have seen a quote from a Rolls Royce handbook of about 1920, saying that normal oil consumption was 200 miles to the gallon!
That's really a lot, omg. Don't want to drive that one very far!
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Up to 1 quart in 500 miles would be considered normal. Yours is on the high side. Probably leaking as much as it is burning.
Wow, really that much. I know that the engine has around 92k. My dad and I put new rings in it, but did not touch the crank bearings or rod bearings, has about 30lbs hot oil pressure. But we messed up on the timming cover rope seal, that leaks which is were I think most of the oil is coming out of.
Robert
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I know that the valve guides are somewhat a cause.... but my '49 does the same thing, but oil consumption is a lot less. about 1 qt every 1000 miles which is what i'd expect from an old car with lots of miles....but 2 qts in less than 500. wow!
Thanks
Robert
Your oil use is somewhat excessive... maybe it is the valve guides. Personally I would live with it until the blue smoke becomes noticeable. -
Hello All,
Hope everyone is enjoying their cars this summer!! I am…darn gas prices going up thought
Question about oil consumption.
My 1936 Buick Special is losing a lot oil lately. I know that it does burn a little oil on start up but no big blue clouds out the back while driving. I seem to be losing about 2 qts of oil in about 400 – 500 miles.
I know there are a few oil drips when parked about the size of a quarter. I also know that the oil is leaking out of the front pulley, distributor shaft, rocker cover and a little drip out of the oil plug. Could I be losing that much oil during that type of trip of 400 to 500 miles. I know this seems like a dumb question, but I only see little dips on my garage floor while setting for weeks and months (during winter). I am thinking that all the oil is blowing out as I drive the car. The underside of the car does have a lot of oil under it.
I just want to make sure that if it was burning that much oil would I see a noticeable amount of blue while traveling 45 to 50 mph? Almost like a constant blue cloud, which it does not do. I do use SAE30.
I just want to note that around 2000 miles ago; the engine had new rings put in. Not valve guides though.
Thanks all.
Robert
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Ohh wow, that's not cool... I had the problem once with my 1949 Buick. The "Dyna Flow" emblems were not being reproduced anymore...so I spent $350 on NOS that evently turned up.... then they reproduced them again for just over $100.
Best luck to you.... maybe try "oldbuickparts.com" they sometimes carry things that bobs don't.
Robert
you must of got the last one because he says they dont carry it.... should of got one last month lol -
Hi
I bought the radio glass about 1 month ago from www. Bobsautomobilia.com in California.
When I bought the glass I used the item # 1936..... RG-36........... $45.00 and they sent me the exact size and style.
Hope this helps….try giving them the # RG-36.
Robert
when did you buy it they said they never made them?:confused: -
</SPAN>
Buick 36 HOT OIL PRESSURE Update
in Buick - General
Posted
Hey All,
I know I’ve been driving you all crazy with the oil pressure issue. Well, I put the car back together. Nothing has changed with the oil pressure, I do get high cold oil but hot it’s prob around 26lbs at 50mph.
I was using Lucas oil stabilizer and had higher oil pressure around 30lbs.
I took it for a 16 mile ride yesterday and the pressure went as low as about 26lbs and the engine felt like it was straining and starting to run a little rough. So, I am going to put Lucas back in seems to like it better. I am using SAE 40 but at high RPM (50mph steady) the oil seems to get hot and break down anyway.
I guess a rebuild is in order. But will nurse the engine along with Lucas oil stab., I guessing a rebuild for that engine will prob be around 2k.
Thanks all for helping on this.
Robert