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Everything posted by Buick36-49

  1. Okay, I'll have to give you a call sometime... thanks for your # rob
  2. Thanks Dan for your reply, well what happens is that that when you turn the steering wheel left/right, the wheel moves a lot before the pitman arm starts to move, I've tried adjusting the box and still have the same results. and the the car wonders a lot while driving, then a bump comes a long and it's the dreaded death wobble. I've replace the outer tie rods and will be doing the inner soon. But still the worm inside the box seems to have a lot of "end play". Robert
  3. 1936 Buick Special Steering Box rebuild Hi All, Can anyone recommend a good steering box rebuild company for my 1936 Buick Special? I have a lot of end play in the wheel and am experiencing “death wobble” a lot. Thanks Robert
  4. Thanks Herm, Interesting. I never done this before, but will learn how to do it. I know for a fact that this engine has brass shims (multi layers). Some are thinker than others. I want to get the know out and increase hot pressure. Robert
  5. Hi Terry, yeah, I did, in fact I had a spare pump in which I stretched the spring and got more cold pressure, but hot about the same. The book calls for 45lbs @ 45mph Thanks Robert
  6. Hi All Nice weather is on it’s way! Time to dust off them off and polish em up! I am thinking that I am going to re-adjust the bottom end of my 1936 Buick Special Series 40 with a 233 cubic inch (3.8L) connecting rods. I think they maybe loose on the crank. While running the engine good and warmed up, I took off the oil pan just to “see” what they looked like. I noticed that they move very freely on the crank (end play). Also, there is a slight knock on acceleration. With the heavy oil the knock sound is less audible and reduces when warming. This time I’m going to use a plastigage to measure the clearance between the rod and crank. All roods are Babbitt bearings and have brass shims. I want to gain at least 10 to 15 more pounds of oil pressure (hot). I am running SAE 40 weight with on quart of Lucas stabilizer and only have 29 lbs hot at 45mph and about 13 pounds idle hot. Any suggestions? Otherwise I just wanted to post my next project.
  7. Hello Ben, Here are some video's I do have Lucas oil stab. in this one.... Cold Oil Pressure: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...54168826962139 HOT OIL Pressure https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...17395448514292 RObert
  8. Hey Don, Thanks for your advice. Yeah, I don't rum em much ('49 Buick as well). But do enjoy the rides and don't want to have to keep staring at the oil pressure guage and not enjoy my ride and worry if I will make it or not and then oh yeah make it back... It does burn a little oil and leak a little, but that another issue in itself. RObert
  9. Hey Don, I was thinking of nursing the engine along as I have been using Lucas oil stabilizer which it seems to like a lot. (If I put 400 miles on it a summer I am lucky) Runs a lot smoother and pressure is a little higher around 30+. For a winter project maybe we will pull the pan again and check the rod clearances. My Dad has a lift in his garage so working on the car might be a lot easier that way. I just can’t work on my back doing this with a jack. Maybe if we remove some shims will tighten up the clearances. I have to practice using the plastic gauges. Would you suggest doing this? Thanks Robert
  10. Oh okay, hehe Thanks for letting me know...
  11. Hi Buick5563.</SPAN> Well, there is no question, but more of an update on what I was doing. </SPAN> Just for the heck of it, what would it cost aprox to have an engine like this rebuilt. New rod bearns, mains, cams and such. </SPAN> Do you need to pull the engine?</SPAN> Thanks</SPAN>
  12. Hey All, I know I’ve been driving you all crazy with the oil pressure issue. Well, I put the car back together. Nothing has changed with the oil pressure, I do get high cold oil but hot it’s prob around 26lbs at 50mph. I was using Lucas oil stabilizer and had higher oil pressure around 30lbs. I took it for a 16 mile ride yesterday and the pressure went as low as about 26lbs and the engine felt like it was straining and starting to run a little rough. So, I am going to put Lucas back in seems to like it better. I am using SAE 40 but at high RPM (50mph steady) the oil seems to get hot and break down anyway. I guess a rebuild is in order. But will nurse the engine along with Lucas oil stab., I guessing a rebuild for that engine will prob be around 2k. Thanks all for helping on this. Robert
  13. Hello All, It’s Robert again. Does anybody know if there is an upgrade to the timing cover for the ’36 Buick straight eight 233 engine? I have the rope seal, but unfortunately we did not “pack” the rope seal correctly so the oil is dripping bout of the front pulley especially when driving. The whole underside of the car is wet with oil. I am thinking that’s where most of my oil is going. During 300 miles I have to add 1 quart. Is there an upgrade from the rope seal to a rubber seal using a newer strait eight timing cover (e.g. Buick 248 engine ’49 -53) Thanks again Robert
  14. Thanks Ben,</SPAN> Yeah, I just got in my gaskets and am going to put the oil pan back on. Should see what happens. </SPAN> I’ll keep you all posted.</SPAN> Robert</SPAN>
  15. Yeah, </SPAN> I know when I take it out on the highway after a long run the pressure goes to 30lbs at 50mph. 50mph is all I do in those cars. </SPAN> In fact after a long run, the engine seems to run smoother. Does not run hot, prob around 185 and starts right up after you shut it down. I hooked up a mech. oil pressure gauge and it shows around 12lbs hot after a run. Book calls for 10lbs at hot idle.
  16. Thanks again for the reply,</SPAN> Yes, I was doing some reading and yes, high oil pressure does not mean that everything is getting “better” oil cushion. </SPAN> This engine is warn, but still has good compression and runs smooth. I just makes me nervous to se 20lbs when hot going up a hill around 40mph. </SPAN> Ben, did they over heat a lot back in the day in stop and go traffic. I like watching old movies and seeing the traffic jams, how did they not overheat. I know the Buicks do not have fan shrouds and they start to run hot in parades and such. </SPAN>
  17. Well,</SPAN> The slight movement is not up and down more like front to back (front of engine to back). I would say that the slight movement might be around the thinness of two sheets of photo copy paper. A little more when the engine is hot. </SPAN> Is that normal? Thanks for your reply </SPAN>
  18. Hello All, Does anybody know what the torque specs should be for 1936 Buick straight eight 233 (series 40) connecting rods. Is it supposed to be 45lbs? Same as the 1949 Buick 248 cubic inch. I think my rods might not be toque enough. They have slight movement back and forth on the crank especially when the engine is hot. Thanks Robert
  19. So, what I’ve done was sand paper the cover plate and pump body down a little, than used a feeler gauge to measure the clearance after I’ve tighten up the screws on the cover plate (with out the round baffle). It looks like I got it down to .002. I know that the engine had around 90k on it so it leaves me to think that the whole engine is just a little looser and broken in. The pump probably a little worn, but seems nice and tight. I’ve ordered a new pan gasket and oil pump to body gasket and just waiting for them to arrive and put it all back together again and see what happens. I’ve been using SAE40 weight now. I used to use SAE 30 and put in Lucus oil stabilizer, seems to help, but that’s what gives me 30lbs at 50mph hot. I just can’t afford to have the whole thing rebuilt and don’t normally put many miles on the car (500 in a year if I am lucky). But when I do travel to car shows and such, they are usually about an 1 hour away. As mentioned, the car never over heats. Gets a little hot in parades but that’s normal, my ’49 does that too. They should have used fan shrouds back in the day. Makes you wonder how they did it back in the day in the city at 100 degree weather. :confused: Robert
  20. Yes, back in 2011 I think I posted the same question. I guess I am still a little nervous running it like this. I must have put about 1500 miles on the car and it still runs fine. Also, I guess that 29 is in the middle of the “N” on the ’49 gauge. The ’49 says I need 35lbs at 45mph and the ’36 is 45lbs at 45mph. So, I have to figure out what is normal. On the ’36 I still am getting at least 12lbs hot idle. Robert
  21. Hello to old-tank and firstborn. Thanks for your reply. It’s just weird because my 1949 Buick Super 248 has nice pressure even at idle and when you cursing it goes to upper end of the “N” normal on the gauge where the ’36 is just at 29lbs at around 55mph. Kind of scares me, no weird knocking, just a little piston slap. I had a 36 Buick engine with the same mileage on it, but I got rid of that engine because of 3 cracks in the water jacket, I remember that one doing about the same thing with the oil pressure. Hot it was at an even ’30 lbs. I still have all the parts to that engine except the block itself. (Still have the head, crank flywheel and everything.) I was thinking of stretching the spring only from the old pump and putting it in the “new” engine and see what might happen. I guess comparing the oil pressure of my smooth running '49 to my '36 233 is not a good idea as engines change. The '49 has a dynaflow trans. with insert bearings. Thanks Robert
  22. Hi Wildcat465 Thanks for your reply I did hook up a mechanics gauge and the dash gauge is accurate. Same difference. So what I m thinking maybe if I stretch the spring in the oil pump that might help. Engine does have around 90k on it. Does burn a little blue. I checked the spring in the pump and it is 2 ¾ long. Robert
  23. Buick 36 HOT OIL PRESSURE Update</SPAN> Hello All, </SPAN>I know I have other posts on here.... but still concerned. Well today I took my 1936 Buick Special series 40 out for a ride. Now I am very fimalar with how the oils and viscosity work. However, my 36 has straight 40 weight in it thinking I could increase oil pressure. At startup I get an even 45lbs cold, but to my shock today I drove for about 40 min and notices that the oil pressure is dropping below 30lbs hot at speeds of 50mph. I believe I am getting around 12 lbs hot idle and 28 to 30 lbs running at around at 45mph. </SPAN> I pulled off the oil pan and looked at all the rods, and what I find is the rods are no loose not up and down, but left to right (sliding on the crank maybe 1milimeter) they move on the crank. Is this normal? I also pulled off the oil pump and was thinking of stretching the oil relief valve spring, but did not. Should I to gain more hot running oil pressure. I’d like to see it at almost 40 hot. I just don’t want to blow this engine as 36 straight 233 eights are getting hard to find. Overall the engine runs good and smooth. Little smoke on startup and take off, but crusing no big blue clouds. </SPAN> Buick experts please advise me before I send the whole engine out for $3500 rebuild in which I don’t have the money for. </SPAN> Thanks</SPAN> Robert</SPAN>
  24. Wow, that looks great, prob a high compression engine.
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