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Buick36-49

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Posts posted by Buick36-49

  1. Update. Rebuilt front shocks, pivot pins upper and lower along with intermediate arm bearing. She rides like new. We also made the rear shock links out of some old parts and some modifications of other NOS parts from WWII in addition to some ready rod. We'll see how it holds up! 

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  2. Hi All, 

    Looking for new rear shock links for my 1936 Buick Special. The correct link broke and the not correct link (someone rigged it up) broke too. Here is picture of the only broken one I have? Any suggestions?  I also cleaned up and install new fluid in my shocks plus painted them. They don't leak!20210504_175717.jpg.e793262492e5245969a27f9ce2d81f78.jpg20210502_153558.jpg.b5c2b05eaa2265faea7caff081ce870b.jpg

     

     

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  3. Nice! Where did you acquire this. Shocks to springs wanted almost $100 to make this for me (not counting hardware). I have one of these and the bottom rusted and broke. I was going to take some ready rod and make my own using the "U" at the top. Not sure if ready rod will be strong enough for the road shock. 

  4. I got lucky, turns out my front shocks are toast on my '36 Special. However, the back seem to be in excellent shape! When I removed them they were not leaking and were still full of oil which I am replacing. The only problem is the links broke that connect the shock to the suspension. Can anyone provide me a picture of their '36 Special rear shocks & link setup? I'm sure over the years mine have been modified a little. My part numbers are Delco LoveJoy 1053004 1439F 2J2 and 1053005 1439E 2J2. Not even sure if these are my year. Thanks!

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  5. Good point MCHinson, yes, Cars LLC was the first attempt at shock rebuilding. Since they are located in NJ, maybe they did go w/ Apple. A year ago I had the steering box rebuilt and the funny thing is if I went w/ Laress company directly, it was going to cost me about $700, but since I went through RockAuto, they gave me a price of $300 for the same service. Strange things happen, it was like a middle man in reverse w/ a discount. 

  6. Okay, update today, (had some time). We installed the driver’s side lower pivot pin using a 20-ton press. Also, we installed the new “idler control arm” bearing for the steering (from Bob’s Automobilia) as well. My bad returned shocks finally came back from Cars LLC. So, I am going to forward them to “Apple Hydraulics” to either take them apart and fit them to “other Lovejoy” shocks of the period or maybe rebuild these. New inner tie rods too. So we are getting there, the whole 36 Special front end will be rebuilt since 1936….Stay tuned…

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  7. Hi All,
     
    Getting ready to remove the "Intermediate Steering Arm" from my 1936 Buick Special because its shot and cause really bad death wobble. This looks like a challenge. Does anyone have any suggestions or has done this before? Any pointers would be great. Looks like there is a bracket that it's attached too. So, does this bracket get loose and slide forward/backward?
     
     

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  8. Hello All,

    Quick question. I have a 1936 Buick Special 4dr sedan. I'm in the process of working the wooden doors and I'm looking for the door check stops. They are completely missing from an early 1980s restoration. The front doors have the nut portion, but nothing else. The back have nothing at all. (Pics) 

     

     Is there anything that may come close to these perhaps from a GM, Chevy, Truck, Olds ect?

     

    Any help would be great. I'd had to see them bend all the way back. 

     

     

    Thanks 

    Robert P.  

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  9. Dan's company just rebuilt a gear for my 56 Buick, and I am VERY SATISFIED!!! Great company to do business with. And no, I do not work for Dan, just happy to pass along a recommendation for a company that does what it says it will do.

    John, Thanks for the recommendation. I am going to go with Dans company as soon as I get the $$ and time to do the job of removing the steering column. The idiot I bought the car from had it about 35 years and never maintained it in any way. Ran the box dry and I’m sure the rollers are really worn. I took off the oil filer and it was dry and rusty. Car really wonders and you have to constantly over correct it. Plus death wobble, scares me.

    Thanks again.

    Robert

  10. Thanks Dan for your reply, well what happens is that that when you turn the steering wheel left/right, the wheel moves a lot before the pitman arm starts to move, I've tried adjusting the box and still have the same results. and the the car wonders a lot while driving, then a bump comes a long and it's the dreaded death wobble. I've replace the outer tie rods and will be doing the inner soon. But still the worm inside the box seems to have a lot of "end play".

    Robert

  11. [ATTACH=CONFIG]248180[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]248178[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]248183[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]248181[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]248179[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]248177[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]248184[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]248182[/ATTACH]

    These are out of a Buick Special 40 Series

    You may want to check the mains also.

    Do not set the clearance less then .001 per inch of crank.

    A 2 1/2 inch crank say, would have .002-50 Minumim clearance, and or not over Plus one more .000-50 thousandths.

    Herm.

    Thanks Herm,

    Interesting. I never done this before, but will learn how to do it. I know for a fact that this engine has brass shims (multi layers). Some are thinker than others.

    I want to get the know out and increase hot pressure.

    Robert

  12. Hi All

    Nice weather is on it’s way! Time to dust off them off and polish em up!

    I am thinking that I am going to re-adjust the bottom end of my 1936 Buick Special Series 40 with a 233 cubic inch (3.8L) connecting rods. I think they maybe loose on the crank. While running the engine good and warmed up, I took off the oil pan just to “see” what they looked like. I noticed that they move very freely on the crank (end play). Also, there is a slight knock on acceleration. With the heavy oil the knock sound is less audible and reduces when warming.

    This time I’m going to use a plastigage to measure the clearance between the rod and crank. All roods are Babbitt bearings and have brass shims. I want to gain at least 10 to 15 more pounds of oil pressure (hot). I am running SAE 40 weight with on quart of Lucas stabilizer and only have 29 lbs hot at 45mph and about 13 pounds idle hot.

    Any suggestions? Otherwise I just wanted to post my next project.

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  13. Hey Don,

    Thanks for your advice. Yeah, I don't rum em much ('49 Buick as well). But do enjoy the rides and don't want to have to keep staring at the oil pressure guage and not enjoy my ride and worry if I will make it or not and then oh yeah make it back... It does burn a little oil and leak a little, but that another issue in itself.

    RObert

    In my opinion, the pressure isn't in the danger area. Checking the bearing clearances with plastic age and getting them where they belong and getting the oil pump clearances in spec will probably do wonders for your pressure.

    Working under the car isn't fun, but it is a whole lot easier than pulling the engine.

    A lot will depend on how you expect to use the car. If it isn't going through a lot of oil ( 1 quart per 1000) resetting the bearings will do you fine.

    Don

  14. Hey Don,

    I was thinking of nursing the engine along as I have been using Lucas oil stabilizer which it seems to like a lot. (If I put 400 miles on it a summer I am lucky) Runs a lot smoother and pressure is a little higher around 30+. For a winter project maybe we will pull the pan again and check the rod clearances. My Dad has a lift in his garage so working on the car might be a lot easier that way. I just can’t work on my back doing this with a jack.

    Maybe if we remove some shims will tighten up the clearances. I have to practice using the plastic gauges.

    Would you suggest doing this?

    Thanks

    Robert

    The issue of rebuilding engines and having to pull them to do the job is interesting. Years ago we never pulled an engine to do an overhaul. Especially babbit bearing engines where you could pull shims to set bearing clearances. All the work was done with the engine in the car.

    Really, all we did was a "ring and valve" job.

    Of course that assumes the engine does not require a rebore - but even then occasionally an engine would be rebored with it still in the car.

    Of course doing this does not necessarily a engine restoration though.

    Don

  15. Hi Buick5563.</SPAN>

    Well, there is no question, but more of an update on what I was doing. </SPAN>

    Just for the heck of it, what would it cost aprox to have an engine like this rebuilt. New rod bearns, mains, cams and such. </SPAN>

    Do you need to pull the engine?</SPAN>

    Thanks</SPAN>

    So what is the question?

    ;)

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