AlfaTazio

Thanks for the photos, but I have that one already, and I feel it's incorrect. My car is a 1925 B 70 roadster, so it should have a metal spoke wood rim wheel. Please check on Hyman's site under sold inventory and the 1924 chrysler roadster will show the correct wheel, that I am looking for. Thanks for helping out.

Would you happen to have a correct wheel for 1925 B 70 roadster, which I believe has metal spokes with a octagonal shaped wood rim, sure would help. Thanks

I had seen the movie Ragtime, but not the Broadway production, so, I was a bit ignorant of this song. Heard it this past week and thought I would share it. The song begins about 8:30 into the production, but the entire broadcast on France Musique is very good. https://www.radiofrance.fr/francemusique/podcasts/42e-rue/brian-stokes-mitchell-de-ragtime-a-l-homme-de-la-mancha-un-baryton-a-la-voix-puissante-a-broadway-7139441 Also, there are youtube videos, its just that the other performances don't quite measure up to the above. For example : https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&ei=UTF-8&p=ragtime+gettin+ready+rag&type=E211US1250G0#id=4&vid=5560f1832c4c0480e9dc4b5b1599bef1&action=view

Thanks, kar 3516 for the info. https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/hf21/hershey/lots/r0010-1928-pierce-arrow-model-81-rumble-seat-convertible-coupe/1136578

Would someone know of a available puller, or, someone who might fabricate such a puller. I did have one made before for a different car, but can not locate him at this moment. Its going to be 2 3/8 inches by 16 tpi....internal threads on the puller itself. I know about the VCCA, but thought I would ask here first. Thanks,

Hi Al, Yes, NH is a retirement home. My Grandpa lived in NH, and I adored visiting him and NH since three years old. Many advantages to NH in terms of taxes, car registration, tax on wines... The only thing I will miss about DC are the excellent wine shops, the rest.....well......no. I will try a few photos after mud season, but maybe a winter photo is possible. I had better do a exhaust video soon, as I am known for monkeying about with exhaust systems, usually, by adding a flex-pipe on the downpipe, and then one of those Smitthy resonators, followed by a small muffler, and maintaining a constant tubing diameter from the downpipe to the end of the tailpipe.

Hi John, et al.,,, Winter has arrived in New Hampshire, so the car stays in the garage till after *mud season*. I need to select a oil to use, the previous owner used Valvoline Racing straight 30 wt....I am thinking 10-30 wt....haven't done it yet. I did change out the coil to a new Bosch 6 volt VW/Porsche 356 unit and then installed a set of Model A spark plug adapters with long reach plugs, which always helps a bit. Have not yet resolved the fuel pressure. Truth is, I am between homes, my NH home is my new residence, but I still have to sell my DC area home, which still has most of my tools...maybe by mud season. I can not say how pleased I am with this car. Its a pleasure to let the clutch out and feel the straight eight begin to rev, much smoother than a six with a wonderful exhaust note....after registering the Loco, I took it down to town hall to show it to the the Town Clerk, who is a 80 year old female car nut. We have locked horns over past car registrations, but the Loco won her over and she insisted it be driven in the 4th of July parade. I do hope the Loco has paved the way to greater accomodation in future car registrations... I will get back with more info when I can, thanks for the inquires. Later, Jay

Do you still have these parts available? I just purchased a junior 8 roadster at Auburn fall auction. Thanks.

Fellas, I am the guy that won the auction. There was a great deal of luck in place for it to happen, I am amazed I did have the top bid. We saw the car on Thursday PM, and it was impressive in person. I only managed a test *ride*, but it was good. I made a phone bid on Sat evening. I really thought Mark Hyman would take it, but he dropped out at 40,000. There are caveats here. Remember, if you are buying any car in Indiana, you will be subject to paying tax on that car that is not reimbursed/transferred by a different state the car is titled in. The only way around it is to have a commercial shipper, such as Passport, deliver the car. The tax rate is 7 per cent. We live in the Lakes Region of New Hampshire. The Loco might arrive sometime next week, via Passport. I, too, only knew of much larger Locomobiles, for example a 1914 Loco that I saw at the OCF at Dearborn a couple of years ago. Its only because Worldwide Auctioneers sent me a flyer in the mail, that I almost threw in the recycling...I had signed up with them for the 2019 Auburn Fall auction, where I lost out on a 1925 Hupmobile 8 cyl roadster...that sold for a mere 10K .... https://trombinoscar.com/hupmobile/2502.html Another interesting car coming to auction at Hershey this year is a Templar. This is a similar car that I did not win at a auction several years ago. But, I am all spent so maybe some deserving guy would be able to take this : https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/templar/sportette/2512186.html Hyman had this wonderful 1918 Templar roadster for sale a couple of years ago....I think it sold for 50K. https://hymanltd.com/vehicles/6386-1918-templar-4-45-roadster/ Templar cars can be seen at the original factory in the Cleveland area....http://www.templarmotors.com/ Back to the Junior 8, the leaf springs seem stuck together, and the vacuum tank is bypassed, as the Stromberg carb is leaking gas with the electric pump left on after the engine is shut off, too much pressure....I am wondering what engine oil to use....etc...looking forward to meeting people on this forum very much. Jay

Hi James, I am one of those guys who almost never takes a photo of something, and have to have my wife take the photos and post them. However, here are the two cars in a R&T article, my Coupe is Italian Red and the Zagato is in black. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a28772/archived-drive-1967-lancia-fulvia/ any other Lancia info, I can try and help. American Lancia Club has a website, Viva lancia from above is also a good source, the website owner, Huib Guerink, was the owner of the aforementioned Flamina PF Coupe. I am certain that at least someone on these pages might have visited the infamous Lancia Parts Consortium just north of Pittsburgh, back in the day. If there ever was a Aladdin's cave of Lancia cars and spares, that had to be it. Closed back in 2004, I think.

I happened to drive a v. similar car back in Sept, 1998, at the 25th Dutch Lancia club meet : https://viva-lancia.com/huib/tulp98/index.htm These are very expensive cars to repair/restore, and the then current owner was worried about a engine knock that would appear... The greatest problem is that many Flaminias just don't bring much when its time for resale, with the exception of the Zagato bodied version, which has entered into silly money levels. Here is another article concerning a Flaminia Touring boded coupe, which is a real beauty when finished : https://www.hemmings.com/blog/article/back-from-the-brink-1963-lancia-flaminia/ I still have a pair of Lancia Fulvias, both 1967 US versions, a 1.3 Coupe and a 1.3 Zagato. Well made, interesting, fun cars to work on and drive. But very different from the larger Flaminia series.

Well, at least I will not have Ed, Rusty and Matt, et al., bidding against me at this auction, what a relief. Fellas, please spread the word that this car really stinks, and maybe I can snag it for a great price. Ciao, Jay

I'm considering bidding on Lot 433 at Bonham's Tupelo auction, but...its more than a 12 hour drive to check it out. and I am wondering just how much I can check, assuming : The engine crankcase is empty, as well as the gas tank, so, the car will not be able to start to demonstrate the engine running, nor whether the piston rings, or tranny gears are stuck, nor any serious leaks once the engine would run and come up to temperature. Bonham's themselves must have great experience with these issues, and disclaim any potential or real problems. So, aside from judging the exterior and interior bodywork, just how am I expected to evaluate spending between 25-40 K? Anyway, if any forum members have seen this car, i would appreciate a quick note on its more obvious condition. Thanks, Jay

We are closing on a home in the Lakes Region of NH, near Wolfeboro, and I am going to want to register some antique cars, 1918 up to 1932. I have looked up the DMV info, much as it may be, and they seem to want to restrict me to only shows, parades, special events...nothing about occasional driving....that's not going to do it. If NH resident would chime in, would I be better attempting to get a full registration in lieu of a antique tag..? Just a side note, today is the first day that I finally adjusted the clutch linkage on my 1918 Scripps Model G, to shift into all gears smoothly, without torturing the tranny....I did not think I would ever get this to work so well...I am not the most experienced cone clutch guy.

Thanks kbeach, they do rotate a bit and then pull out. I did have to use a older, thin bladed knife from the kitchen to insert between the bezel and the bucket, working it around the circumference, and then could twist the bezel off, with the button depressed... of course. Hmm, my wife informed me later that the knife is called a *spreader*, a flat knife with rounded end, not v. sharp....just don't get caught using one.....

As silly as it sounds, I am trying to remove the headlight bezels from a 1918 Scripps Booth Roadster, Model G. There are no clips or screws or tensioning devices, but, there is a small button that one can press, as much as they like. Now, would the bezel rotate a bit and be released, or just slide one edge forward? The bezels have been on a long, long time and may be corroded in place. I am trying not to do any unnecessary damage to the buckets themselves. These headlight buckets may be identical to some Chevy 490, but I don't really know. This particular car is a true ex-Barney Pollard car, and Barney must have had a taste for yellow and green, as the body is yellow, and green is seemingly everywhere else, save the seats. So, Barney must have added the headlight lenses I am trying to remove......MacBeth-Evans lens, here, take a look: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-MacBeth-Evans-Pittsburg-Glass-Co-Green-Eyebrow-Automobile-Headlight-Len/222945468906?hash=item33e895e1ea:g:yhEAAOSwtuBa1rzy I have a great respect for Mr. Pollard, but not for his taste in antique headlight lenses....

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions, they are very much appreciated. Okay, the bloody tranny is fixed......I pulled up the floorboards and large metal tranny cover, then removed the shift tower, only to have the intermediate piece surrounding the ends of the shift rods to move around....then I saw it, there is a bolt hole right through the center of the large frame/tranny bracket and a 1/2 inch bolt passes through and helps secure this intermediate piece. Once I installed a new threaded bolt and aligned the shift rods, then re-inserted the shift tower, I could access the gears again and yes, the car is now moving in reverse as well as the forward gears....without that bolt, there must have been some flexing. When i work on my cars, I believe, I always put the bolts and nuts back..... Which brings to mind another car I have been working on, a 1925 Pierce Series 80 I acquired this past summer. There were problems with shifting, grinding gears, etc. The seller, whom is a very decent collector, talked about some specialist working on the engine, and other things, etc.... well, upon removing those floorboards to attempt to adjust up the clutch, I could see perhaps 4 nuts missing around the bell housing, no washers on the others, nasty old rusty nuts being the ones used....and its a Pierce Arrow? Did the guy have zero respect for what he was working on.... must happen all the time

Thanks for the replies. I have had several cars with failing input shaft bearings over the years, and know the sound well. This PB has a quiet smooth tranny, in this case, I don't think its the bearings. In regards to the rubber tranny mount, that's a very good suggestion as well, so I inspected it and it must have been replaced the last time the car had restoration work done, its in okay shape. I checked by placing a floor jack with a bit of wood under that tranny and gently jacking it, there was no movement upwards of the tranny. In reference to my suspicion of the free-wheeling device, I had a 31 Plymouth PA, and had removed the freewheeling cable to do some dash repair. When I first re-installed the cable, I didn't have it in the right spot, and the car would not engage reverse gear....finally, I postioned the cable correctly, and reverse began working again..... So, I will remove the floorboards, etc...and then detach the shift tower and try and see whats doing. I have the feeling a small rap on a shift fork might help....especially with the free-wheeling device locked out now.... Jay

I have a 32 Plymouth PB and lately, it decided to have the tranny become stuck in 1st gear.....the clutch works fine, the gearbox has plenty of oit, etc.....and it had been shifting very well but.....the free wheeling knob was all the way in, and I believe that allows the lever to actually be *in* freewheeling, even though it did not drive that way. This car also has the optional *clutchless* system from the factory that assists shifts due to throttle pressure and a vacuum system. On the intake manifold, I had inserted a brass threaded plug to dis-able the system, and it has worked fine for some time. Though, lately, I was hearing a bit of gearbox noise, as if the gear was not sliding correctly into position. Anyway, its stuck in first gear, and I have moved the freewheeling lever into the position to dis-able the device, but with no luck. Would it be possible for the free-wheeling mechansim to allow a gear to become stuck, or am I pulling the tranny to have a look at the shifter forks and rods....

Fellas, I thought I would weigh in a bit, to my eyes, this is a 1925-26 Chevy Superior roadster, and it does not have a Mercury body. A Mercury Sportabout body would have had a single passenger door, fittings for a canvas top, a different windshield frame and tell-tale air vents on at least the side for ventilation. In this case, someone has altered the stock windscreen and made up different panels from the original cowl back. I think its a 1925 due to the early thin round headlamp bar I think i am seeing, and then, there are what look like Model T headlamps....eeekkkk... Still, a very sporting looking car. Hats off to Don above, he really has taken the two best photos of Pinky Randall's restored Mercury bodied car on a Superior Chassis, circa 1926, along with a 1928 center dash assembly....GM now owns this particular car. But Don's photos show the car at its best. I had people in my office reacting v. positively to them. Ciao, Jay

Thanks Shannon, I see the Myers each year at Hershey, and expect to again this Oct. Thanks for the info on TCP Global. I will be very pleased to access the wealth of knowledge here, as I am starting out at ground zero for the Dodges. Oh, will be going to the Old Car Festival in Dearborn MI next weekend, should you happen to be there... Jay

Thanks Ron and gundog, My car would be a relatively early 1928, with the recessed, or tray headliner....I think the car would then be Brunswick Blue......now, if I could just find out that shade of blue....I had been looking through eBay ads for 1928 Dodge Victory six, and can find all the cars in color illustrations, with the exception of the Coupe, naturally.

Fellas, Looks like I might be able to acquire a 1928 Coupe. Its been poorly repainted all black...I am going to change the body color to something else. Now, would the cab section be the same body color, or a fender black color? I am unsure of the original colors this car had... Thanks for the help, Jay

Actually, I am aware of the two different body sizes, but....what is the wheel bolt hole dimension on the wooden spoked wheels? Bill - sorry, no photos yet... Jay