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Everything posted by Guest

  1. IIRC, the plate on my '63 was on the firewall in the area of the brake booster.
  2. Well today was take the diff apart day. What was found inside the diff wasn't good. Let me put it this way, anyone have a good pumpkin for a `65 1 ton laying around?
  3. Guest

    Need advice.

    Hello once again, Well... it turns out that one of the exhaust ports was leaking at the head. The gasket had a small burr on the mating surface and some black where the leak was, so after double checking the surfaces, and removing the nick in the gasket, it was reassembled again. I'll be darned if it wasn't still leaking! WHAT THE? :confused: Off came the manifold! Now I'm on a mission! The mating surfaces were perfect, pristine, show room clean. There was no reason found that explained the leak. So... the seal between the 2 manifolds became the suspected culprit. The manifolds were split apart, and darn it, the seal was holding just fine. Go figure, uneven rusted surface seals, clean flat surface doesn't. Oh yeah, there were 2 new gaskets that went between the 2 manifolds included in the kit. It wasn't just put together with sealant as the only form of gasket. One of the gaskets was solid and covered the complete opening, the other just sealed the outer rim. The instructions stated that the solid one was for propane use. I can't imagine why the solid one couldn't be used when gasoline is the fuel. If anything, I'd think it would help keep the base of the carburetor cooler. Anyway, a new coat of sealer was applied and the 2 manifolds were married once again. (may they live happily ever after) Not wanting to risk a 4Th encounter with this leak, a small amount of sealer was used on the 2 inner most exhaust manifold ports before mating the manifold to the head. WA La! Success! No more leaks! Of course the quiet turned up more problem noises from deep inside the engine. :eek: I thank one and all for the ideas.
  4. Try adjusting the kick down linkage. IIRC, the kick down valve position plays a major role in controlling the up shift in a power-slide.
  5. was a bring me up and let me down kinda day. The elusive exhaust leak in the manifold has been found and sealed. The engine is now very quiet, so quiet that I can now hear the rods rattling. So yet another project for the endless list of repairs. Thanks for the tips.
  6. Yup, I was thinking the same thing. I just had a problem with the lack of bearing noise, IE. no rod knock. I'm wondering if maybe the cam bearings are the problem seeing how there's nothing knocking. Oh well, guess I'll just have to drop the pan one of these days and have a little look see around in there. Thank you for the reply.
  7. Wow, great responses! Today I managed to finish up the exhaust piping, but still haven't found the exhaust leak at the manifold. Tomorrow is replace the brake line that gave out today. I can't even complain about the brake line, I've been trying to figure out where the brake leak was for a long time now. The leak was so slight, there wasn't even a drip. I had no idea where the fluid was going. I was really surprised to see that it was right there in the middle of the right rear line.
  8. Former owner of several Corvairs, and the keeper of the nightmares they gave me. After having one that caught on fire, one that the gas heater almost blew up, and another that the rear axle rode out of the bearing leaving the car with no brakes @ 65 in the left lane of the Long Island Expressway, I'd had enough of the Corvair! And those are just the highlights of the horror stories I have concerning the infamous Corvair. I was able to trade the last Corvair I owned, (a 64 Monza 4 Sp) straight across for a 66 Pontiac Bonneville. After that deal was done, I swore that I'd never own another Corvair. That was over 40 years and many different vehicles ago, none of which I'm happy to say were Corvairs. I will give you this, the Turbo / Super charged, whichever it was, 65 Corsa that I had was a kick in the pants, until the engine fell apart. Sorry, don't mean to rag on another persons pride, but I have just about nothing but bad memories where the Corvair is concerned. Ever know Tex Shaw out of Kanas? He had several of the Corvans at one time and spent a lot of time in the Grand Lake area of Colorado. Of course, this was 20 years ago.
  9. Hello again, Well I think I already know the answer to the question, but it doesn't hurt to ask. The old 65 Chevy 292 has about no oil pressure to speak of, the gauge shows just over 20 psi when cold and maybe 5 psi @ idle once it warms up. No, its not being driven at all. There doesn't seem to be any rod, or main bearing noise such as knocking, and the engine doesn't smoke or show other signs that its just flat worn out. In fact, with the exception of the low oil pressure the engine runs very well. However, there is a noise coming from the bottom of the engine that sounds like it could be being made by the oil pump. My questions are, has anyone ever run across, or heard of a Chevy 292 with a weak, or worn oil pump that was the lone cause of low oil pressure? And, could a stuck check valve cause low pressure? I have no history on the engine other than hearsay that the engine was rebuilt at some point. ( this is an old commercial truck, it very well may have been rebuild more than once ) And one last thing, it sat for many years ( maybe as many as 8 years ) with filthy oil in it, could this have any effect on the pump? Thank you so much for any advise or theories.
  10. Hi all, I spent the day cleaning up the old truck. Just getting that done took the better part of the day. Anyone else want to share what they did with their classic today?
  11. Guest

    Need advice.

    Thanks for the ideas! After cleaning it all up, the surfaces looked pretty good. I did use a little Permatex high temp RTV ( the orange stuff ) between the two maniflods just to be sure. Well, as soon as it started, I could hear a small leak. :eek: Of course, this just will not do. So... the next step is removing the manifold for another check of the sealing area. I'm just not sure it isn't that heat riser shaft leaking. The squish between the intake and exhaust manifolds really looked good. I find it hard to believe it would have leaked as soon as the engine was started. Maybe a little later, but not right off the bat. Anyway, That's where it stands, the manifold has to come off, again! Thank you once again for the ideas . I'll report my final fix, if I ever find one.
  12. Sorry, but both of the 63 Nova SS convertibles I owned had factory 14 inch wheels with a 4 bolt pattern. No Nova had 5 lugs until the V8 came out in 64.
  13. I remember seeing a vehicle similar to the one in the picture in an old movie. Sure can't recall the name of the movie, but in the movie, the vehicle was a being used press car.
  14. My gripe with the show is those 2 are always walking past, or climbing over really neat old cars and bikes to pick up some piece of junk like an old lunch box. "Lunch box, picket, 50 bucks, valued, 65 bucks". Right. Made a bunch on that deal. A 65 mustang, value 2-14k, picked for, oh, we walked right by it to get at the lunch box. Then Mike says "Hey Frank, I'm not seeing anything" , as the camera pans over 4 or 5 classic cars, and an old Kawasaki 500, Then Mike will say," Oh wait, there's a basket made from bottle caps". Jeeze.
  15. I almost was an owner of a Tempest with the OHC. I still remember the first time that I looked at one of those engines. It was like, what in the world is that? Why was that such a short lived project? With all the OHC engines from Europe at the time it seemed like a good proven idea. Now everything is OHC.
  16. I do stand corrected on the 4 speed, I meant to say there wasn't a 4 speed prior to '65, oops. The 6 cylinder SS had 14", 4 bolt wheels.
  17. Having done this swap a few times I can say with certainty that the job here is being blown way out of Proportion. First off, the V8 wasn't installed in the Nova until 64, and then it was the 283 with a powerslide ,or a 3 speed manual. IIRC, there was no factory 4Sp in the 62-67 Nova. It was 68 before the Nova came with a 4Sp. The only change for the V8 other than heavier springs was the bigger brakes with optional power assist and 5 lugs and 14" wheels. As for installing the engine. The motor mounts are bolt in. No frame changes are needed. The mounts need to be for a Nova, but bolt right in. The oil pan, oil pick up, and the oil pump drive all need to be changed. The pump drive is shorter. The pick up reaches to the front of the pan, and the pans sump is located forward of the cross member. Back in the day the filter had to be changed to a spin on filter. The original canister hung to low, and had exhaust clearance issues. The wiring was a matter of moving the wire for the distributor and that' it. The alternator wiring was long enough that it reached the alternators new position with no problem. The same went for the starter wires. I do not recall what stock exhaust manifolds were used, but back then the selection was minimal. Best guess were ram center dumps. As for transmissions, the original powerglide was the easiest swap because there's no drive line work needed, just drop in the engine and go. The standard was easy as well, but who wanted a 3 speed with a V8, no one! Personally I went with a Muncie 4 speed since the car was an SS, and the shifter came right up through the console like it was factory installed. But this did require some trim work on the cross member to keep the cross member from making contact with the tail housing of the 4 speed where the tail housing bolted to the trans. IIRC, it was about a 15 minute job to trim the cross member with a grinder.Other than that it was a direct bolt in, and the original auto trans mount was reused with the 4 speed.. Even the same drive shaft from the original 6 cylinder auto went right into the 4 speed without any cutting! (its a 60's Chevy, one size pretty much fits all) Using the original Corvette linkage with the shortened throw made that car a whole lot of fun to drive. I'm not sure what all this talk about the clutch needing to be special to the Nova is all about. I used a plain old bell housing, stock clutch and flywheel for a Corvette application , and a fork from I don't know what, and never had a problem. Nothing was ever done to the suspension other than an alignment, and I think the brakes were swapped out for larger ones, but once again I've forgotten just what was done with the brakes. The exhaust was custom made with 2 1/2" pipes from front to rear. This was one deep sleeper. It was full blown stock right down to the 63 SS hub caps. No one ever expected to see an old Nova convertible light up the tires the way this one did. It was clean and just plain mean. Here's the bottom line, it takes an oil pan, an oil pump pick up, a couple of engine mounts and the oil pump drive. Those are the only specific parts needed to install any small block Chevy into a 62- 67 Nova. These parts were once available from the dealer for under $50.00. Care to guess the cost today, if they could be found? Sorry about the long reply, I got caught up in the moment, the past, something.
  18. Guest

    Need advice.

    Hey all, Well after procrastinating for 6 months it was time for the replacement of the gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds on the old 65 chevy 292. As soon as the parts of the manifold were separated it was obvious there was a problem. The mating surfaces between the intake and exhaust manifolds are really pitted from rust. The intake side isn't that badly pitted and most likely will seal, but the intake side is questionable. Both have been filed in an effort to regain a flat surface. Of course the studs on the exhaust side are frozen in place making any kind of home resurfacing difficult, and it really is not worth having it resurfaced. Anyone Know of a sealer that will hold up on the less than perfect sealing surfaces between the intake and exhaust manifolds? And, is there anyway of replacing the heat riser? Is the heat riser even necessary in a warm climate? Thanks for any advise in advance.
  19. Yup, I remember the school car smashing as well. IIRC, at the time it was a nickle a swing. Of course the old cars being smashed back then couldn't hardly be hurt with a sledge hammer. lol I must agree that holding such an event now is not a very good idea, but why not raffle off a new 4 wheeler, or other item of interest to the people in the area? Just a thought...
  20. Ah ha, if the link is highlighted and then search is pushed, the link to the ad comes up.
  21. Sorry about the link, when I tried it, I was taken to the ad. Anyway, the car is posted on the Hawaii CL and is in the Maui used car by owner section, in case anyone wants a look see. The seats look strange in the car. There's also a little console that really looks out of place. Over all it doesn't look that bad. Most cars that old down here have rust holes big enough to throw a basket ball through, and get nothing but air. Last month there was a 63 Bonneville convertible that was nothing but rust. Now that was a rare car. Thanks for the replies. Maybe I'll go have a look at the old girl.
  22. Hello all, I came across this ad : for a 64 Cadillac convertible. The price is right, but did the 64 Cadillac convertible have bucket seats? All of the Cadillac's that I've owned had a bench seat. This would be a rare find to me, if it is in fact correct.
  23. Well I'll be darned if that isn't the same car. I must have been under a rock, that or no one in the pea sized town that I grew up in ever had a car like that. Now I'm wondering what other little items I've missed over the years. As well I'm wondering why it took so long for those roofs to catch on. I still can't recall sun roofs in the 60's. I thank all for the responses.
  24. Nothing in the garage, but I was able to paint my old dd outside today. It was so hot...well, it was hard keeping the paint from drying in between passes with the paint gun.
  25. I'm no expert, but my first thought was late 40's early 50's Dodge, or De Soto.