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About Butch91

  • Birthday 05/03/1990

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  1. I have been looking into this situation as well. i do not know the thread length on the original accumulator, but i do know it is a 14 x 1.5 in millimeters for the thread size. i just took my old one into NAPA last week and inquired about a replacement, and while there i measured the threads at NAPA. let's hope we can eventually find a suitable replacement.
  2. Regarding the leather treatment. i have been using 2 products for a long time Lexol leather conditioner and Nestsfoot oil - natural oil derived from cattle; the same material the leather is made of. if you are not going to use the car for a while, the neatsfoot oil takes a long time to soak into the leather, a few days sometime depending upon the dryness of the leather. i have used it on TC, Jaguar, and Citroen, all good results as well as the Lexol with good results. Below is the information on both products. Good luck with your TC. Lexol Conditioner is an emulsion much like those used in leather tanning so it puts back the essential oils to nourish and protect leather.</SPAN> It is concentrated, so it cleans effectively with a considerably smaller quantity of product.</SPAN> The modified oils in Lexol Conditioner are retained in the area of application to protect against migration, or seepage, into adjacent materials or surfaces</SPAN> Neatsfoot oil</SPAN> is a yellow oil</SPAN> rendered</SPAN> and purified from the shin bones</SPAN> and feet (but not the hooves</SPAN>) of cattle</SPAN>. "Neat" in the oil's name comes from an old name for cattle. Neatsfoot oil is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather</SPAN>. </SPAN></SPAN> Neatsfoot oil is used on a number of leather products, although it has been replaced by synthetic products for certain applications. Items such as </SPAN>baseball gloves</SPAN></SPAN>, </SPAN>saddles</SPAN></SPAN>, </SPAN>horse harnesses</SPAN></SPAN> and other </SPAN>horse tack</SPAN></SPAN> can be softened and conditioned with neatsfoot oil.</SPAN></SPAN> Lexol Conditioner is a liquid conditioner and preservative intended for use in the care and conservation of leather. It works to preserve and maintain the strength, beauty and flexibility of leather -- old and new -- and to help restore resiliency to old or neglected leather that has become hardened and stiff. </SPAN>
  3. Thanks again Hemi and Digger i guess i used hesitation incorrectly it is like Ralmon described, a sputter or slight mis-fire. there is absolutly no hesitation once i start to give it more gas to get going, the sputter dissapears and she runs perfectly. i will take a close look at the oxygen sensor before trying to remove. yes i am familiar with the difficulty of removing some oxygen sensors. just replaced one on the jaguar xj-6 but that one was easy to get to and did not give any real difficulty. luck of the draw i guess. Thanks for all the advice and i will keep everyone posted especially if i ever get the car purring at idle.
  4. Thanks for the explanation, Hemi, I appreciate it. Would you suggest replacing the oxygen sensor as an initial step in trying to resolve this problem? Do all of the 4 cyl; 8-valve engines exhibit this particular situation? The hesitation or misfire at idle is more of an annoyance than anything else; but it just seems that it should idle as well as it runs when not at idle? </SPAN>
  5. Digger -- you know now that you mentioned it; i remember a similar issue with i think it was the center relay, in which one of the females was loose inside the connector block. after I noticed that, i put my finger on that female wire from underneeth the connector block while i pushed the relay back into place on top of the block, all conncections seemed to be made. anyway, very close inspection of all components of that brake relay block and fuses do need to be closely observed. thanks again for your insight.
  6. Digger -- thanks for sharing the brake issue. I will share one that we just experienced. Our 91 white 6 cyl. The yellow ABS light was on for a number of months never really dug into it as the brakes seemed to be working fine. Then the red brake light started to come on as well as the ABS light. At first the red light came on intermittently, finally both were on all the time but the brakes seemed to be still working fine. I checked the brake fluid level first. Then I inspected the 3-relay box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I pulled all 3 relays and both of the 2 fuses. The relays and fuses looked OK no blown fuse or burned or melted relays. I took some sandpaper and cleaned all the metal plug ends on all of the relays and on both of the fuses, got the plug ends all fresh looking and shined up, as they all looked to have significant oxidation on them. Put all relays and fuses back into place and low and behold both the yellow ABS and red brake lights went out after the car was started. So anyone that has either the yellow ABS or red brake lights coming on, after checking the brake fluid level the first thing I would recommend is to clean all of the relays and both of the fuses in the brake system relay box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. It is the easiest thing to do before tearing into the whole brake system.</SPAN>
  7. Digger, thanks for the heads-up and the advise with regard to the torx screws. yes, i have had difficulty with stuck screws, mainly phillips in the past; can be a real pain in the neck. i do not know when i will be able to work on those items but when i do i will report the results. the baffeling part is how good the car runs when not ideling, when not ideling, it is like the sewing machine. thanks again and all the best.
  8. Thanks Ralmon and Digger. i did not consider the MAP or IAC as i did not get any check engine light or codes; i will look into those parts once i have the car back from my son, next time he comes home. i really would like the car to idle like the sewing machine. thanks for all your help and suggestions.
  9. Ralmon; i seem to have the exact same condition that you mention. also a 1989; 8 valve automatic. at idle it seems to sputter or miss a little but as soon as i step on the gas it is fine no sputter at all and drives fine. it is also ideling at the proper RPM but sputtering. i have replaced exactly what you have done and cleaned throttle body etc. also i cleaned all of the injectors etc. i tried to find some kind of vacume leak and i do not see any leak. this problem has got me baffled. especially with the fact that it runs perfectly when driving, no miss or sputter at all. good gas mileage and everything. my son currently has the car at college so i have not been working on it for a while, but the condition is exactly what you seem to mention. if i ever figure it out i will let you and everyone know. if you ever figure it out, please let me know. thanks a lot and happy motoring
  10. Shelby</SPAN> Glad you are making progress on your new tc acquisition</SPAN> A few things we did when we first got ours a couple years ago were also to put in new brake pads all around, new shocks and struts all around and after that, replace all 3 of the engine, trans mounts; one on left one on right and one in middle.</SPAN> Then replace the 4 rubber sway bar bushings with new bushings.</SPAN> After all of that the car should be nice and tight again; it is very likely that all of the rubber mounting and bushing parts are original and approaching 25 years old. All of the rubber has been compressed for all of that time loosing most of the resilience and flex that the new parts will have.</SPAN> Replacing the mounts and bushings made a significant difference in the steering and flex of the whole car. It firmed everything up again. Good luck.</SPAN>
  11. Joe, not sure if this may help or not. we have 3 tc's and the temp gauge does not swing much at all on any of the 3 if anything the gauge reads on the low side typically. But it does work as i did notice high temp. on the gauge when one of the hoses developed a pinhole and caused water to leak out slowly causing a low water situation. But, a few years ago i did have a ford mini-van that did exhibit temp gauge swings. i did not pay much attention as it did not overheat. but then the water pump started to leak slightly. when i replaced the water pump the temp swing went away. and the old water pump had very little of the 'pump vanes' left, all were eaten away over the years. the lack of vanes within the water pump caused the temp gauge to swing as the water flow was very uneven depending upon the engine rpm at any given time. not to say that is your situation, but it may be something for you to look at now or in future. take care.
  12. Bill, i agree with you 110% about the heater core; did that job last winter. the only job i ever did that was even close to the heater core job on the TC was replacing a starter on the 1972 Citroen SM. that was long ago but i still have nightmares about that job.
  13. Bill;</SPAN> I did this exact job 1.5 years ago. It took me a few weeks but just a few hours each night after work and I was in no hurry as I had other cars to drive. My heater core was blocked up and leaking slightly. Once the new core was in it has been working great, real good and hot heat and cold A/C. The old blocked core provided very little heat.</SPAN> It is just time, time, time and persistence to get the job done. Once you get to the heater box, take the whole thing out of the car and when you remove the old heater core, take some time and clean all of the dust, crud etc out of the entire plastic box housing. Also, prior to re installing the heater box with the new core, take some lubricant and lube all of the joints and metal connections and mechanisms that move and are accessible once the heater box is out. Lube the swinging door hinge points, This will make for a much more smooth and easier operating heater control mechanism on the dash. Take your time as I am sure you are doing. Anyone that has done this job knows that nobody would do it for free and if a dealer or other shop had to do it; it would cost a small fortune. Another thing I did was to lubricate each and every nut, bolt, screw etc. with anti-seize lubricant prior to putting the whole thing back together, it makes for much easier re-assembly and if anything has to be taken apart again it will not be seized shut. You will have to re-charge the A/C once back together; may be a good time to put in new expansion valve or anything else that may need attention with the A/C system. If your small light in the ash tray area and the small light that illuminates the gear shift selection are out, now is a good time to replace them so that they work again. Mine were both burned out. I am sure there are some things I am forgetting but if you run into any specific difficulty or problem; I may be able to remember and help. Good Luck; you will need it. Take care, Mark</SPAN>
  14. guys; no need to reply regarding motor mounts; i found where all 3 motor/transmission mounts are located on the cars. there is a right, left and center mount. the only thing i need help with is that 'shock', gas-spring, or damper that is locted on the passenger side motor mount i cannot find any reference to that particular part. any help with that part is greatly appreciated.
  15. guys; i finally got the part to replace the motor mount on the right, passenger side, of the 1989 8-valve. George; you were right, the old one was shot, the engine slumping down about half to 3/4 of an inch compared to the new one. 2 more questions 1 -- is there? and if so, where, is it located a motor mount on the drivers side of the car? it was getting too dark and i could not see much last night, if there is one i might as well replace that one as well? 2 -- the motor mount on the passenger side also has a small 'shock' or stabalizer or damper type mechanism which i had to take off of the original motor mount and reposition on the new motor mount. Does anyone know where to get a replacement 'shock' or damper that goes onto the motor mount for this application? anyone know the part number for this small 'shock'?? And/or where to order one?? thanks again to all; for all your help and suggestions<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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